Battery Question
 

So I just replaced the batteries for my Z and Kia Optima (DD). For the Z, it had a Nissan Battery, Group 24 in it. I replaced with Duralast Gold (Group 35) which the CCA and CA were lower than the Nissan Battery. CCA on Nissan Battery was 700 and CCA for Duralast is 640.

1. Is this too low of CCA?
2. Can going lower on CCA affect anything?
3. The CCA and CA on the Duralast Gold for my Kia is rated higher than my Z. So the Kia requires more to start than the Z?

Why didn't you put a Group 24 back in it? CCA ,Cold Cranking Amps that the battery can deliver. I guess in worst case scenario that the Nissan requires in the coldest and Hotest of weather. Slow starting would be a symptom of it. If all is well, you should be OK.

I should have checked the current battery that was in it prior to purchasing. I was Googling the battery info. for the Z and they all said Group 35, so I figured this was it. I will say that the Group 24 was much harder getting out than the Group 35 going in.

The stock battery, according to the dealer, is around 550 cca. They keep trying to get me to buy a new one, since my 3-y-o one only musters about 380 cca. It's still starting the car with no electrical issues, so I'm going to wait until it fails the first time to replace it.
Some of the racer-type guys have mentioned using ATV batteries (Sealed Lead Acid) with no issues.


Kirk B.

I guess the CCA is dependent on the group, as my old battery from Nissan was group 24F and was rated 700 CCA.

It's possible that 550 cca is the point at which they start bugging you about buying a replacement.
I'm close to the point of having to replace mine, probably in the next 3 months.


Kirk B.

Unless you live in The Frigid North, the difference between 700 and 640 CCA will be negligible. If you live below the Mason-Dixon Line, you may never notice the difference.

LOL, My car is a 2013 and still has the factory battery.

As always, I appreciate your input, as well as everyone else. You should write your own FSM and publish for the rest of us :tiphat:

OMG - Mine Is A 2010 With The Original Battery - No Issues
Although I Have Been Wondering About It Lately
Stays On A Battery Tender ALL Winter :bowrofl:

Mine had never been on a tender. It is driven regularly up until Dec 27th.

Former parts guy here -

OE group size for the Z is a 35 series.
If you live in a cold climate they may have used a 24 series as a cold climate option (i've seen it done before)
Unless your car is regularly seeing sub freezing temperatures, i wouldn't worry about it.
Even if it does, you're probably fine unless you're inside the arctic circle lol.

This is what I wanted to know.....and hear, so thank you :tup: btw, I tried searching but couldn’t find this. What is the min. CCA and CA for the Z?

I live in Florida. It was 80 yesterday, and now it’s 62. Tomorrow will be 55 I hear. 55 to me is freezing cold lmao.

Same. I have a ‘13 and the Nissan battery I had seems to be the original. My DD battery recently went out and I figured might as well just replace both, even though the Z is driven once a week.

I did a Q&D search for "370Z cranking amps" and came up with 550-650 CCA. None of the answers I saw were what I would call authoritative but seem to be in the ballpark.