P1606
 

So I got the P1606 code - VVEL issue, limp mode. The first time it happened, I was able to reset the ECU and was able to get home. Next day, the code came back. I ordered a used VVEL module from ebay, swapped it out. Code was still there and still in limp mode. I tried to clear the code with a scanner, disconnecting the battery, and using the ignition on/accelerator presses method (5 times) and still couldnt clear the code.
After that, I went and got a new VVEL relay and swapped that out, still have the code. Tried both old and "new" VVEL modules with the new relay and no luck. So as I stand, still getting the code and still cannot reset the ECU.
I could have very well received a bad VVEL module from Ebay, but why cant I reset the code?

Anybody have any ideas whats going on?

Have seen the other threads on this issue? Someone was saying they replaced both relays?
And maybe you need consult 3 to clear this code?

Sorry can't help much as there's not much info out there about this fault.

Also try G37 forums as well.

And in EC.pdf see under contents..

ADDITIONAL SERVICE WHEN REPLACING
CONTROL UNIT (VVEL CONTROL MODULE) .......18

Theres only a handful of threads concerning the P1606 code on both 370z and G37 forums. Im not sure what one relay has to do with another though?

I had waited overnight with the "new" module installed, hoping that the ECU does its thing with updating, but it still had the code. So I put back the original module in with the new relay, hoping perhaps that the module was good, and relay was bad. Ill start her up in a couple hours and keep my fingers crossed.

Its pretty scary driving and all of the sudden the Z goes into limp mode.

Check the power to the control module itself with a 12v 50w light globe. Compare light brightness with just connecting to battery.

That is a bad idea. He needs to use a VOM meter. A light will light up and mislead you. Seen some horror stories of that in my technician days. One guy had to go to court over it for a misdiagnoses.

Your correct but you can misdiagnose with a VOM as well.
Best to load power supply and check voltage at same time at the VVEL connector.

You may be referring to the low wattage test lamps.
Not ideal for testing high current ccts.

While it may not be the best method to check for high resistance wiring, it is not a bad way to do it. As with any other test procedure, one needs to be able to interpret the results properly. The "light test" is not perfect (a marginal wiring problem may not cause enough change for eyes to notice) but works well for finding higher resistance wiring problems.

So..... I checked the Vvel fuse...its one of those fusible links..that was good... cleaned the ground with a wire brush... installed a new vvel relay...swapped out with a different vvel module. Visually inspected the harness under the battery tray..Still a no go...
I dont know how I would test the module under load as the connector from the harness is enclosed.

At this point I'll order another module... I'll have to test the other relay before I order another one.
I hope it's not a bad harness..

Assuming the 50W mentioned above is what the module pulls under full load, you don't have the have the module connected to perform the test. Poke a nail, stiff wire, or similar conductor into the harness connector pin and attach light to it. Ground the other side of the light.

50W @ 12V = 4.2A, so it's not going to be pulling a lot of current but you might want to put a 10A (or 6A slo-blo)* fuse in series with the light - just to be on the safe side.

*Incandescent bulbs have a high inrush current so you need a "big" fuse or one that will survive the initial current draw.

Hi Bunk,
Have you tried driving the car after you first replaced the module? Some times this can clear codes.

And does the car have any mods like Uprev or ecutek?

After I replaced the module and then the relay, the car is still in limp mode. Wouldnt go over a few mph. I do have an ecutek tune.

Did you check with the globe that the module is getting power. Use the ground pin on the connector and not the battery for car body.
From FSM pin 14 is GND. Check pin 8 has power on it. The VVEL module seems to isolate supply to motors on pins 1 and 13 via relay. If the module is not working this relay maybe off. But you should see pin 8 with power with module removed and ignition on.

I havent tested it yet, was trying to research the pin layout on the connector. This is perfect. Thanks!

VVEL reference starts at FSM EC-597 2010 revision.

Show what you should see on each pin.

But see EC-606 shows module pinout.

Finally the code is gone. I checked power to the vvel harness and it was good. Tested all fuses, they were all good. Even with a 3rd VVEL module I still had the code. Uninstalled and inspected all connections and reinstalled the original VVEL module. It started fine with no codes. Time to do some short drives.