61K miles.

I've ordered the full timing chain rebuild including crank sprocket, gaskets, the new metal gallery gaskets, screws, and water pump. Those oil pumps are too expensive for me!

Have fun cleaning the grey RTV silicone off.

There is also the acc. Drive belt.

Be careful no to damage mating surfaces when removing cover.
Read FSM on how to remove timing cover without breaking stuff.

If you dont have some pry bars definitely invest in some. And a breaker bar / 4 foot length of pipe so you can cheater bar the crank pulley bolt.

Also depending on whose kit you bought, some non-hardened hex drivers. Hardened ones will strip the replacement hex fasteners.

Be sure to label every bolt and part... bc you will forget what went where by the end.

Quadruple check the chain positioning and secure the f out of it at all times. The absolute last thing you want to do is take it all apart again...

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:iagree:

It's raining this weekend, (and the parts still aren't delivered), so this will be postponed until I get back from vacation in January!

This has been by far the biggest job I've done. I've been working slowly over the last two weekends and now have everything removed and am ready for replacements.

There's a few tricky bits I struggled with before buying special tools. Here's my notes, hopefully they're helpful to someone:

Getting the crankshaft pulley bolt off was the hardest. Put the car in 6th gear, make sure the parking brake is tight, and get a BIG breaker bar. my 24" 1/2 drive breaker bar was bending... so I ended up buying a 40" 3/4 drive bar and socket, and that did it. Make sure you don't pull the car off the jack stands..
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...olt-stuck.html

Removing the power steering bracket, there's not much clearance and you may need a *shallow* 14mm socket and/or a universal joint.

Removing the AC compressor, the far bolt also is also awkward and you may need some short extensions.

Removing the oil pan seemed impossible without the right tools, but once I got a strong putty knife (one you can hammer on) and the nissan recommended "oil pan separator tool" it was easy.
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...an-spacer.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5735ycX1JhE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NXVDP9X
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LCPOPGC

Removing the front timing cover seal took a while even with the right tools. Only the drivers side pry notch worked at all, and there's not much room on the sides to get a tool in to cut the seal. I didn't find any tricks here, just takes some time.

Everything would probably be easier if you can just remove the whole front bumper, but to do this you need to disconnect the AC refrigerant lines. This requires a special tool and the fluid would all boil off and is pretty bad. You could get an HVAC specialist to evacuate the system for you, but I didn't do this and just worked around the front bumper. You can undo the radiator assembly bolts and pull it a few inches out without disconnecting the lines, and this is sometimes enough to get a power tool onto the front of the engine.

Also regarding the complaints I've seen about the phillips head screws on the oil gallery covers torquing out - I tried a pozidrive #2 bit and it was much more stable than the philips bit. (I also bought the CZP hex replacement screws)

Some of the wiring harness zip tie/clips seem to be impossible to remove properly, so I just cut them and will replace them (still looking for the part number)

So, after taking everything apart, I have still not conclusively found a root cause of my problem. The timing marks all lined up, nothing looked broken, the oil gallery gaskets are all intact, nothing looked too dirty or gunked up, etc. Before I replace everything and put it back together and hope that it just works, what are the things I should check for?


However.. I just found these threads on G37:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...m-phasers.html
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...derslipped.pdf
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...g-weird-2.html

Could this be my issue?

These are my phasers:
Attachment 140308
Attachment 140309
Attachment 140310
Attachment 140311


Comparing to the internet..
http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1578982040

This is just comparing the bolt head, which could have no relation to the actual timing marks.. but it seems consistent. Could this be my problem? Has anyone verified this before?

Man... massive props for doing this without removing the bumper. For the pulley, I had my sister get under the car and pin the driveshaft with a lug nut wrench while I used a 1/2 breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe slipped over the handle. Dented part of the underbody w the wrench head but w/e.

I've no experience with the phasers but based on your pics that could be the issue.

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Found another related thread about the phaser encoder slipping: http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...oat-rodeo.html

Hi Knio,
From what I know these phasers they have a heavy return spring which sets phase to zero when there is no oil pressure. Can you move the 2 parts of the phaser back and fourth easily on the original one? Compare it to new one. It maybe stuck in one position.
Why this has happen is another question. Maybe related to low oil level.
Did you also compare length of the old timing chain vs new one?
Also, there are 2 solenoid valve on the front cover. Check these are working and not stuck open.

I can't move the phasers by hand. I think there's also a locking pin at zero that engages with no oil pressure. See this youtube: https://youtu.be/o61LjDqHzoQ

But, before I disassembled this, I manually gave power to both the solenoids while the engine was idling, and I confirmed that they both work, and the phasers do actually advance the timing. So the solenoids and hydraulics did appear to be working.

I don't see how the pressed in timing ring can move?

Maybe just a defect in the design or grade of metal used.
A least the new ones seemed to have a revised part number.

Yeah it seems weird to me too... but it matches my symptoms exactly, and ive looked at every picture of this part I can find on the internet now and seems like it has lol.

Maybe the whole sprocket gets too hot (because of the low oil), and expands enough that the pressed in inner ring gets loose, and then it just vibrates a bit?

You could of with some luck reset timing plate and tig welded without removing complete timing cover. Just the 2 smaller covers.

Hence why I was saying to work out what the cause of issue is before removing cover.

Anyway doesn't matter as its not guaranteed to work.

Did you notice high oil temps when you came off the highway?

And you year model is susceptible to oil burnt so you need to keep adding oil.
You should be using 10w40 or 5w40 from now on.