C1109-00 code - no CEL tho

BossJ

Hello, looking for some knowledge.

I just installed ecutek - no custom rom yet however.

But when I go to dtc tool - it shows me 1 DTC under HVACABS ... (C1109-00)

I just installed Z1 CAI and greddy exhaust... Engine seems to be running fine

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2016 Pearl White 370Z Nismo (6ma) || Z1 CAI || Greddy GT X || FI Resonated Test Pipes || Ported Manifolds || Fuel Pump: aem50-1200 || 1050cc Fuel Injectors || E85 || RJM Performance Clutch || ECUTECH - SpecialtyZ (Seb)

SouthArk370Z

https://duckduckgo.com/html?q=C1109%2D00

I'd start with the ABS module connectors.

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BossJ

Right - but I guess I'm wondering (and didn't ask this) - do codes get thrown and the CEL doesn't light up? Is that normal?

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2016 Pearl White 370Z Nismo (6ma) || Z1 CAI || Greddy GT X || FI Resonated Test Pipes || Ported Manifolds || Fuel Pump: aem50-1200 || 1050cc Fuel Injectors || E85 || RJM Performance Clutch || ECUTECH - SpecialtyZ (Seb)

SouthArk370Z

Yes. A lot of DTCs don't light up the CEL. Even if it is related to an engine problem. Depends on how severe the ECM thinks the problem is.

ABS is not part of the engine. You may have a brake or other problem light that you didn't notice.

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vtec to vvel

I probably have dirty MAFs as my car sometimes goes into limp mode when I first start her up with no cel light. Every few months, I will get the cel light and when I hook up my obd ii scanner, it gives me the MAF code, which I’ll clear out. So no, a cel light will not always come on.

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Z_ealot

I have this same dtc show up in mine as well but it's just a pending code and has stayed that way for a very long time, anybody ever figure this out? Doesn't seem to effect the car, but was more curious what i should be looking for if there really is a problem, battery is good and reads a consistent 13.6-13.8v when the car is running

Ventruck

I've had this for a while too. Recently changed my battery, but I think the issue is when I had my rotors and pads swapped.

It has never given me a real problem. Shop mechanic and tuner also said there's no major alarm.

1slow370

its a code that says the supply voltage is out of range. check the ring terminal connector on the alternator and the alternator cable for corrosion. i had it light on fire once because the alternator was trying to bring up the cars voltage through the corrosion. if your battery gauge does weird inconsistent drops in voltage to like 12-13v and sometimes is up near 15-16v it could be the issue. mine did it for a year before the cable melted. if i drove it infrequently i was always fitting bad batteries because it would be either under charged or having 16v thrown at it. i also ended up replacing the alternator but if you catch it earlier it might be ok. unbolt the cable from the alternator and check that it is still flexable and the electrical tape hasnt hardened if it has cut the tape back a bit slide the rubber boot out of the way and see if the cable is turning green from corrosion. if it is replace it. then check the ring terminal and the post on the alternator for signs of arcing or corrosion, clean up if its there and if the post or nut are corroded replace the nut on the alternator where the connector seats too. use a bit of dielectric grease or the red spray for battery terminals, re tape the end of the wire if it isnt corroded and reinstal. if the cable is corroded you will have to replace it.

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Z_ealot

Replaced the alternator on the Z a little less than a year ago now and checked everything while i was doing it, don't remember if the nut that holds the cable on was corroded but the cable itself was still plenty flexible with no signs of corrosion. I can take a look again, but my voltage readings are super consistent so i don't think it's that. Only other thing i can think of is i know the two grooved idler pulleys are on their way out, would that cause enough drag on the belt though to cause the alternator to not behave properly?

1slow370

Probably not it's probably corrosion somewhere or just a miscellaneous error that won't go away until something burns out. Ipdm connectors, abs connectors, things like that

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jarenbea

My Z has had this code ever since I installed the z1 stainless brake lines and also switched over to motul rbf 600 brake fluid. I noticed my tpms light flashing and scanned it and it gave me this code. Not sure if it’s related or if that’s just because I had the battery disconnected for awhile while bleeding the brakes (i’ve had issues with tpms before but never cared to check it out). Anyone had this issue after changing brake fluid or lines? Thanks!

Cory Gillmore

Kinda…I do have Z1 SS lines and 600 Motul but I didn’t throw this code until about 5 months afterwards. It happed on a cold start one morning where it seemed like it struggled to start like it had low battery power. I also get a weird sound on especially cold mornings that sounds like a squeaking pulley of some sort. It wouldn’t surprise me if my car needed a new alternator and new pulleys. Does anyone which pulleys those are specifically? My 09 has never these parts replaced AFAIK.

I also have an intermittent P0300 that will show up in my ecutek app but will disappear after a couple drive cycles, rarely showing on the dash.

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batman_4

Any update on this? I too have the 1109, but post brake pad and rotor change...& an intermittent 0300 on app.

However, my '09 now goes into limp mode (post CEL flashing, then turning off) whenever I accelerate or rev a bit more than 'normal'.

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Tosh

Did you solve this?
I have the same sound on cold weather so I changed the pulleys, but the squeaking on start still remains.

Dreadnaught

Sounds like you could have high humidity/moisture in the air where you are. The belt will be damp when sitting over night and when you start your car up in the morning you get a belt squeak until the moisture goes away.

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