Electronics won’t let me start my Z and OBD port and ECU won’t connect. Need a mechan

osburnrs

So somehow through a series of events I’ve killed my Z and killed three ECU’s and my OBD port. Can anyone help me as the dealership will eat me up in new parts and some won’t touch it because it’s a Stillen supercharged vehicle with UpRev software. Please help me!

Thanks,

Rod


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

BettyZ

Rod, we're going to need you to be more specific about the situation.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

SouthArk370Z

What was the "series of events"? What has been done to try to fix the problem? Is the fuel pump turning on? Does the starter engage? ...

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

SteveSAS

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4834206/

osburnrs

Long story. Went off track over the gators at 120mph. Bounced engine and belt grabbed the wires to the intake control module and ripped them out (it’s just two wire). Replaced the end and was still getting flagged with the code for no intake control module. Started unplugging confections to check continuity and found this to be ok. NATS came on and wouldn’t allow the car to start. Everything functioning with the keys still just won’t allow car to start. It’s UpRev tuned so I figuring would just flash the ECU and be done but can’t get OBD port to work. Buy used ECU and it does the same. 2 ecus down stabs self in eye and gets back on eBay to order more parts and freaking UpRev license as I can’t retrieve mine off of dead ECU. Take car to speed shop for them to fix it and it’s there for a month and they can’t start either. They call dealership who won’t touch it because of the Stillen s/c and tune and mods, etc. Get mad bring car home and put used bcm, ECU, and key switch in (matched set from 2014 a/t Nismo). Mine is 2015 with 2016 engine (look good blowing up on the front straightaway at TWS!). Install, OBD is alive and NATS light goes out but still shows no key. flash with new UpRev license and car still won’t start. Go to flash it back to stock and it kills the OBD port again and eats my license. 4th $300 license that UpRev has made me buy for this car. Thanks a lot uprev!!! So now it’s out here with 3 dead ECUs NATS on again and no start. So there you have it. Help!!!!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

DrBacon

This might be stupid to ask, but have you checked ALL of your fuses (there's like 3 fuse boxes)? I had something similar with car wouldn't start and obd2 port wouldn't connect, turned out I had a blown injector fuse.

osburnrs

Checked every one of them.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

osburnrs

Fuel pump runs, can hear throttle bodies engage, hit start button and everything shuts off.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

BettyZ

There is so much going on here. Frankly, if I hit a gator at 120 mph I'd just be glad that I'm alive.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

osburnrs

Funny but this is a different kind of gator.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

BettyZ

How the hell did you manage to run over WKGR, a classic rock format radio station in Florida, United States?!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

osburnrs

Well I couldn’t run over the Tiger here in Baton Rouge.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

2013-Z33

At some point there was a weak or lost ground from the ECU to the engine. This can cause the ignition coil's built in driver to overheat and short in a way that causes the input of the driver to short to the output, which is the negative side of the coil's primary. At this point as the ECU's output tries to drive the coil's input low and it "sees" +12v through the coil's primary, which has a resistance of about 1 ohm. The ECU's coil output pin is now trying to switch over 10 amps to ground. The battery wins and smokes the ECU's driver which is only rated for 0.05 A. The driver is part of an IC that has about 30 other channels. That coil channel will be blown for sure but usually some other's are as well, but in a random pattern that is not always the same. Some of the other I/O channels; CAN, fuel pump, OBD2...etc. Even when the ECU's ground is restored the shorted coil(s) remain and if a new ECU is installed and powered on the same damage happens again. Unplug all of the coils from the harness and try another
ECU.

osburnrs

Wow! I’m really impressed and wish you lived near me. So I thought I was smart but this has humbled me greatly. So in my ignorant capacity, what coils are you referring to? The coil packs at the plugs or something else? There’s no doubt that the ECU has lost its ground because it’s hanging loose on the passenger side because it’s so hard to keep putting in and out. Probably too late to save the old ones but in my defense I did run jumper cables to ground the ECU in its unmounted state. Thanks in advance for the help and new used ECU is on the way.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

2013-Z33

Yes, the ign. coil packs at the spark plugs. The lack of ECU case ground will not cause this problem, but is needed to shield the ECU from EMI noise. Nissan has moved away from their old practice of running the ECU's grounding pins straight to the engine block. There is now a longer "chain" of grounds, where the ECU is grounded to the body under the dash and then the engine block is grounded to the body and finally in this case the coil packs are grounded to the front cover.