HELP!!! My diff will not go back on the car

eliboy · 09-08-2019, 07:59 PM

Hi all,

I have been working on my car replacing a lot of parts and now it is time to put everything back together.
I have replaced the sub frame bussing and diff bussing to solid once, the diff to 1.5 way Cusco and the diff cover to the Z1 high capacity one (and some other parts that I don’t think is important to the issue I am having).

The subframe is back on the car and I am trying to install the diff back but I can’t

and don’t now why. It 2 straight up bolts that god to the sub frame will not go inline with the bussing. It looks like I am missing it by a hair.
Did anyone had the same issue? What you guys thing I need to look for? Is my only way is to go back to my original cover? (NISMO cover, forgot the day the car is 2014 NISMO).

I have been trying for over 6 hours now and don’t have anymore ideas what to do. Pleas, any idea is welcome. I have been

by this diff.

Thank you!

eliboy · 09-08-2019, 08:09 PM

Some pics if it will help anyone to find what is wrong.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spooler · 09-08-2019, 08:50 PM

Maybe Rusty can help ya. My car was getting the TT and motor installed, I just gave them the parts to do the subframe. LOL

jchammond · 09-08-2019, 09:59 PM

Haven’t seen a bushing like that; does the stud in rear cover not go all the way in...to get nut on back?

jchammond · 09-08-2019, 10:03 PM

Hope you didn’t install it backwards

The ones I’ve put in have a larger opening on backside of bushing,,,so you can install nut & torque.
Be sure the 2 bolts that gu upwards through the ears are started before tightening them up...can cause a headache if you cross thread them

jchammond · 09-08-2019, 10:07 PM

Like this.

eliboy · 09-08-2019, 10:19 PM

I have installed it the same way as you and it sits flat.
Just to validate. The backside is pointing to the rear of the car, right?

eliboy · 09-08-2019, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Maybe Rusty can help ya. My car was getting the TT and motor installed, I just gave them the parts to do the subframe. LOL

The car is on jack in my garage, unless he is doing house calls in TX I don’t know if it will work.

jchammond · 09-08-2019, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eliboy

I have installed it the same way as you and it sits flat.
Just to validate. The backside is pointing to the rear of the car, right?

Ok; just ensure stud goes all the way in bushing, as the rear cover would be completely against it.
I’m not familiar with the high capacity Z1 cover either.
Be sure & toss the large flat washers, that were against bottom of car with the oem 2-ear bushings...should be able to wiggle diff & get these started by hand.
Otherwise,,,that large rear bushing may have to go further rearward

eliboy · 09-08-2019, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond

Ok; just ensure stud goes all the way in bushing, as the rear cover would be completely against it.
I’m not familiar with the high capacity Z1 cover either.
Be sure & toss the large flat washers, that were against bottom of car with the oem 2-ear bushings...should be able to wiggle diff & get these started by hand.
Otherwise,,,that large rear bushing may have to go further rearward

I will give it one more go, I hope I don’t need to press more the subframe bussing as it was so hard to put it in. I got a 20 ton press as I was not able to do it by hand not even with the Z1 install tool

jchammond · 09-09-2019, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eliboy

I will give it one more go, I hope I don’t need to press more the subframe bussing as it was so hard to put it in. I got a 20 ton press as I was not able to do it by hand not even with the Z1 install tool

They are tough for sure; I used Z1’s poly in my 11 & helped a buddy do SPL solids in his...sounds like you’re really close,,,may want to tighten nut on rear of diff cover to ensure it pulls everything flush (while jack is underneath diff...then see if that helps you get the front 2 bolts lined up.
I know the threads are tapered on the ends/ but I’d make sure they’re started by hand before torquing.
Hope you get it

Rusty · 09-10-2019, 12:56 AM

I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction.

The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings.

Jayhovah · 09-10-2019, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction.

The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings.

^^^^ this. I installed an Energy Suspension bushing first and it didn't have the clearance for the extended stud boss on the Z1 cover. Whiteline bushing fit MUCH easier.

eliboy · 09-15-2019, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction.

The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings.

Will try next weekend and report back!

eliboy · 11-05-2019, 10:39 PM

Hi all,

So the diff is in BUT to be able to do it I needed to put the diff subframe bussing not flashed. I don’t know if this is ok but this is the only way that the diff will go back on the subframe.

Here are some pics please let me know if anyone had the same issue with Z1 solid diff bussing.
When I talked with Z1 they said it is ok but I will like to check if someone else had the same issue.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

09-08-2019, 07:59 PM	#1 (permalink)
eliboy Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Wylie, TX Posts: 122 Drives: 14 Nissan 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 10	HELP!!! My diff will not go back on the car Hi all, I have been working on my car replacing a lot of parts and now it is time to put everything back together. I have replaced the sub frame bussing and diff bussing to solid once, the diff to 1.5 way Cusco and the diff cover to the Z1 high capacity one (and some other parts that I don’t think is important to the issue I am having). The subframe is back on the car and I am trying to install the diff back but I can’t and don’t now why. It 2 straight up bolts that god to the sub frame will not go inline with the bussing. It looks like I am missing it by a hair. Did anyone had the same issue? What you guys thing I need to look for? Is my only way is to go back to my original cover? (NISMO cover, forgot the day the car is 2014 NISMO). I have been trying for over 6 hours now and don’t have anymore ideas what to do. Pleas, any idea is welcome. I have been by this diff. Thank you! jchammond likes this.

09-08-2019, 08:50 PM	#3 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Maybe Rusty can help ya. My car was getting the TT and motor installed, I just gave them the parts to do the subframe. LOL Rusty likes this.

09-08-2019, 09:59 PM	#4 (permalink)
jchammond A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Carolina Age: 58 Posts: 15,204 Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T Rep Power: 2684395	Haven’t seen a bushing like that; does the stud in rear cover not go all the way in...to get nut on back? eliboy likes this. __________________ MazWorx built long block \| FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 \| IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

09-08-2019, 10:03 PM	#5 (permalink)
jchammond A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Carolina Age: 58 Posts: 15,204 Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T Rep Power: 2684395	Hope you didn’t install it backwards The ones I’ve put in have a larger opening on backside of bushing,,,so you can install nut & torque. Be sure the 2 bolts that gu upwards through the ears are started before tightening them up...can cause a headache if you cross thread them eliboy likes this. __________________ MazWorx built long block \| FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 \| IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

09-08-2019, 10:19 PM	#7 (permalink)
eliboy Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Wylie, TX Posts: 122 Drives: 14 Nissan 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 10	I have installed it the same way as you and it sits flat. Just to validate. The backside is pointing to the rear of the car, right? jchammond likes this.

09-08-2019, 08:09 PM	#2 (permalink)
eliboy Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Wylie, TX Posts: 122 Drives: 14 Nissan 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 10	Some pics if it will help anyone to find what is wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

09-10-2019, 12:56 AM	#12 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,221 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction. The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings. JARblue, Jayhovah, Spooler and 2 others like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-05-2019, 10:39 PM	#15 (permalink)
eliboy Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Wylie, TX Posts: 122 Drives: 14 Nissan 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 10	Hi all, So the diff is in BUT to be able to do it I needed to put the diff subframe bussing not flashed. I don’t know if this is ok but this is the only way that the diff will go back on the subframe. Here are some pics please let me know if anyone had the same issue with Z1 solid diff bussing. When I talked with Z1 they said it is ok but I will like to check if someone else had the same issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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