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HELP!!! My diff will not go back on the car
Hi all,
I have been working on my car replacing a lot of parts and now it is time to put everything back together. I have replaced the sub frame bussing and diff bussing to solid once, the diff to 1.5 way Cusco and the diff cover to the Z1 high capacity one (and some other parts that I don’t think is important to the issue I am having). The subframe is back on the car and I am trying to install the diff back but I can’t :icon14: and don’t now why. It 2 straight up bolts that god to the sub frame will not go inline with the bussing. It looks like I am missing it by a hair. Did anyone had the same issue? What you guys thing I need to look for? Is my only way is to go back to my original cover? (NISMO cover, forgot the day the car is 2014 NISMO). I have been trying for over 6 hours now and don’t have anymore ideas what to do. Pleas, any idea is welcome. I have been :owned: by this diff. Thank you! |
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bfad8f0188.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...533f8b677e.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0e98ca812.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9c1acc3381.jpg Some pics if it will help anyone to find what is wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Maybe Rusty can help ya. My car was getting the TT and motor installed, I just gave them the parts to do the subframe. LOL
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Haven’t seen a bushing like that; does the stud in rear cover not go all the way in...to get nut on back?
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Hope you didn’t install it backwards :wtf2:
The ones I’ve put in have a larger opening on backside of bushing,,,so you can install nut & torque. Be sure the 2 bolts that gu upwards through the ears are started before tightening them up...can cause a headache if you cross thread them :icon14: |
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Like this.
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I have installed it the same way as you and it sits flat.
Just to validate. The backside is pointing to the rear of the car, right? |
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I’m not familiar with the high capacity Z1 cover either. Be sure & toss the large flat washers, that were against bottom of car with the oem 2-ear bushings...should be able to wiggle diff & get these started by hand. Otherwise,,,that large rear bushing may have to go further rearward :ugh2: |
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I know the threads are tapered on the ends/ but I’d make sure they’re started by hand before torquing. Hope you get it :tiphat: |
I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction.
The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings. |
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Hi all,
So the diff is in BUT to be able to do it I needed to put the diff subframe bussing not flashed. I don’t know if this is ok but this is the only way that the diff will go back on the subframe. Here are some pics please let me know if anyone had the same issue with Z1 solid diff bussing. When I talked with Z1 they said it is ok but I will like to check if someone else had the same issue. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ae68a33f21.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7de73f0932.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...85b74cf09d.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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