HELP!!! My diff will not go back on the car

jchammond · 09-08-2019, 09:07 PM

Like this.

eliboy · 09-08-2019, 09:19 PM

I have installed it the same way as you and it sits flat.
Just to validate. The backside is pointing to the rear of the car, right?

jchammond · 09-08-2019, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eliboy

I have installed it the same way as you and it sits flat.
Just to validate. The backside is pointing to the rear of the car, right?

Ok; just ensure stud goes all the way in bushing, as the rear cover would be completely against it.
I’m not familiar with the high capacity Z1 cover either.
Be sure & toss the large flat washers, that were against bottom of car with the oem 2-ear bushings...should be able to wiggle diff & get these started by hand.
Otherwise,,,that large rear bushing may have to go further rearward

eliboy · 09-08-2019, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond

Ok; just ensure stud goes all the way in bushing, as the rear cover would be completely against it.
I’m not familiar with the high capacity Z1 cover either.
Be sure & toss the large flat washers, that were against bottom of car with the oem 2-ear bushings...should be able to wiggle diff & get these started by hand.
Otherwise,,,that large rear bushing may have to go further rearward

I will give it one more go, I hope I don’t need to press more the subframe bussing as it was so hard to put it in. I got a 20 ton press as I was not able to do it by hand not even with the Z1 install tool

jchammond · 09-09-2019, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eliboy

I will give it one more go, I hope I don’t need to press more the subframe bussing as it was so hard to put it in. I got a 20 ton press as I was not able to do it by hand not even with the Z1 install tool

They are tough for sure; I used Z1’s poly in my 11 & helped a buddy do SPL solids in his...sounds like you’re really close,,,may want to tighten nut on rear of diff cover to ensure it pulls everything flush (while jack is underneath diff...then see if that helps you get the front 2 bolts lined up.
I know the threads are tapered on the ends/ but I’d make sure they’re started by hand before torquing.
Hope you get it

Rusty · 09-09-2019, 11:56 PM

I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction.

The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings.

Jayhovah · 09-10-2019, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction.

The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings.

^^^^ this. I installed an Energy Suspension bushing first and it didn't have the clearance for the extended stud boss on the Z1 cover. Whiteline bushing fit MUCH easier.

eliboy · 09-15-2019, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction.

The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings.

Will try next weekend and report back!

09-08-2019, 09:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
eliboy Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Wylie, TX Posts: 122 Drives: 14 Nissan 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 10	I have installed it the same way as you and it sits flat. Just to validate. The backside is pointing to the rear of the car, right? jchammond likes this.

09-09-2019, 11:56 PM	#6 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,363 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	I've installed 3 diff bushings so far. The first one I did was on my Z. A solid SPL bushing. I had the same problem as you with one bolt not wanting to start. You need to tap the frame bushing a little deeper into the frame. Even tho it's flush in the frame. The combination of the solid bushing, the Z1 cover and the stud on the cover. The tolerances get stacked up in the wrong direction. The last thing you want to do, is to strip out the nut in the sub-frame. You will have to drop the sub-frame, cut the top of it to get to the captive nut in it to change it out. I was looking at this for chits and giggles when I did my sub-frame bushings. JARblue, Jayhovah, Spooler and 2 others like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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