Oil Pump Removal Question
 

Hey guys. I need help. I see that everyone keeps asking people if they plan on changing their oil pumps while they are replacing the gallery gasket and I found out why the question is asked. The problem I have is that I've consulted the FSM and scoured the interwebs and still cannot find anyone who posted about removing the oil pump without dropping the upper pan.



My question is can you remove the oil pump in pieces without dropping the upper pan? I know there's a part of the pump that sits in the upper pan, which is why you need to drop the pan to remove the pump as an assembly, but I'm thinking that it's possible to remove it in pieces and wanted to know if anyone has tried.



Thanks in advance.

Yes. I just did it during installation of my JWT C2 cams and upgraded with a new oil pump with upgraded gears. You must disassemble the oil pump to remove it this way.

Thank you for validating what I was thinking. Do you by chance remember if the screws on the oil pump are the same as the screws for the gallery gaskets?

To the best of my recollection the screws are the exacts same on the pump as the screws on the oil galley gaskets.

The hardware Nissan provides for the oil galley gaskets are the problem, so I'm a little concerned the same hardware is used for the oil pump. The screws don't torque down properly and are prone to backing out, leading to oil leakage around the gaskets or gasket failure entirely. Nissan revised the gaskets and hardware, but it's still a problem. I purchased the EPS oil galley gasket kit because it has improved hardware.

I haven't heard of anyone having hardware issues with the oil pump, so maybe they are different or maybe the mating surfaces are different and it's not an issue. But it has me at least a little concerned.

Suckerpunch oil pumps uses allen head bolts. See picture.

MA Motorsports | JWT VQ37VHR C2 CAMSHAFT KIT – Suckerpunch Motorsports Oil Pump Included

What are the EPS gaskets made of? Synthaseal? I bought a used pump for dirt cheap to see what size the screws are on it. I can confirm that the screws are grade 7 (old spec) or grade 8.8 (new spec) M6 x 15mm screws; they are 1mm longer than the screws CZP provides. CZP screws are also weaker than the stock screws, which explains why I read some members saying the CZP screws strip out.




I found those grade 12.9 screws on Amazon and i plan on switching them out when i put in my boundary gears and gallery gaskets.

Not sure on the gasket material. EPS states they are steel-reinforced but does not specify the gasket material.

https://engineered-parts-solutions-a...ery-gasket-kit

I've been debating over OEM, EPS, and CZP gaskets. I've seen a few people say the OEM still has issues and EPS was better, but is also the most expensive. However, I'm not too keen on the CZP gasket since I don't think that is steel reinforced.


I think I'm just going to spend the little bit extra to not have to do this job again.

The whole EPS kit was $60. Labor on this job is damn near $1K. So anyone complaining about the EPS kit being too expensive is just stupid.

:iagree:

EPS - $60
CZP - $29
OEM - ~$38


so tell me which set is the most expensive

I never said it wasn't the most expensive. My point was discussing the parts cost difference is stupid because it's neglible compared to the labor costs.