New clutch time

-ZS-Carpenter

Joe says the bolts are not torque to yield. He says as long as they haven't been over torqued they are fine to reuse.

I'm going to replace all of them anyway. I got the car at 30k something miles so idk if it's been apart before or not. No point in taking a chance on $100 worth of bolts.

Would the motor mounts be more accessible with the trans out? Wouldn't mind having all 3 mounts done at the same time.

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BettyZ

I managed to install Z1 motor mounts without taking anything off the Z except the stock mounts. Its tricky but doable. Happy to help.

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'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

-ZS-Carpenter

I didn't really look at the too close but the passenger side looked like it would be simple once the trans is out. I need to take a closer look when I get back under it.

I need to track down a high lift floor jack. I think I need another 4-6" to roll the trans out on the jack. I'm as high as I can go with my 3.5 ton napa floor jack but got plenty of jack stand left. I picked up a set of Esco stands over the winter for this as it was planned for next winter. They are way better than the ratchet type I was using. Car is solid sitting on them and I have 8 or 10" higher I can go.

How do you like the Z1 mounts? I had planned on getting them but might get torque solution from Joe.

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-ZS-Carpenter

rjm pedal has shipped!

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JARblue

I encountered the same issue when I dropped the transmission a while back. Jack was limiting factor on the lift - stands had plenty of room. Since I was only doing the Z1 CSCEK I was able to just slide the trans back down the tunnel a bit for enough room to work. I have decided I'll get another jack so I can remove it completely when I do the full clutch replacement.

I got the Torque Solution from Joe for transmission mount and CJM engine mounts. TBD on the engine mount install. I'll have enough stuff out like you I think I might be able to do with with just a hoist. But I'm planning to have a shop tear open the engine anyway for galley gaskets and oil pump gears, so I'm thinking it may be easiest to do them then.

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-ZS-Carpenter

I have a 5" jack extension on the way. I think it will be just enough. If not I think i can lower the rear of the car and pivot the front up another couple inches. Might be just enough to sneak it out.

I'm still chatting with Joe via email. In the middle of engine mount chat now. The Torque Solutions trans mount is on sale, $30 less than the Z1 and I can probably get most of it shipped together.

jchammond

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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jchammond

What are you jacking off of?

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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jchammond

I mean position of jack to contact point?

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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BettyZ

Passenger side does look and is easier, but is deceptive. Bought a set of crow's feet to remove the driver's side nut, decided to use them to torque both new nuts down, ended up getting the crow foot wedged against the passenger side motor part of the mount. Dont remember exactly how I got it off but I know it involved my sister's non man-sized hands and a magnet. To swap mounts I used a floor jack on the front lift point to very, very delicately lift the motor off the stock mounts. There's a DIY on the forum that I followed.

I felt a rather substantial difference with the Z1 urethane mounts; I'm a big fan.

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__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

-ZS-Carpenter

to lift the car or to lift the engine if i do the mounts? for the car I'm just using the diff in the rear and that plate with the bump right behind the undertray. That tray is off the car right now but it's only 6 or 8 bolts to slap it back on.

I'll get more pics of the mounts this weekend.

jchammond

I know in the rear; I’d always go to that point where the 3bolts & arms come together....just behind diff.
I have a special cut block that would fit right between FI exhaust & really worked well....about the the same spot up front.
Seems there was a dimple or slightly bulged place right near the center I used

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

-ZS-Carpenter

Yea. There is a bump on the plate right behind the front splash shield. I have some low profile ramps I need to get the jack to it. Neither car is high enough to get my jack under the front without them.

I have that plate out right now but it's only 6 or 8 bolts. The extension post I ordered for the floor jack won't be here for a couple weeks so in going to snag a couple chunks of 4x4 off the job site and see if I can raise it enough with that. From what I'm seeing I need about 30" or so to roll the trans out on my jack and only have 24 ish right now

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Rusty

The Z is one of the cars that I have the most displeasure of jacking up.

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"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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BettyZ

Buy a QuickJack! Best. Investment. Ever.

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods