New clutch time

SPDKING

I think they more sound like two nuts rattling in a tin can..Two very large nuts....that's why our cars push out so much power haha. If your driving style requires a lightweight flywheel then it should be fine. Just expect off the line performance to suffer, cruising ability to suffer and you'll have to be timing your shifts faster and fuel economy going down aka you're going to have to adjust your driving style. In any event, if you don't care about that, why not just go balls deep and get the 15lb flywheel so you get the most out of this upgrade? It's a steeper learning curve than the 20lb but you'll get more bang for buck.
Jim Wolf Technology website

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-ZS-Carpenter

I don't want an aluminum flywheel and the iron JWT flywheel is 26lbs.

What problems are they having? I've seen nothing but praise with the V2.


Anyone running Z1s 14lb flywheel? I was told to go as light as possible and I can piece meal the parts with a Z1 clutch and Zspeed hydraulics for about $1350.

It's down to that or the Zspeed kit for $1450 with a 18lb flywheel.

I picked up a metric set off amazon. Nothing super fancy but should get the job done just fine.


Going to start draining fluids and pulling parts off it today.

Rusty

The aluminum flywheel uses a steel ring for the fiction area of the clutch disk. What I have read. It's not a good DD flywheel. The steel ring doesn't transfer the heat too good to the aluminum. For track, it good.

Most people seem to have to adjust the Z1 CMAK set up more often. The ZSpeed is set it and forget it. There have been some teething problems with both. But the ZSpeed is the one I would get.

That Z1 14lbs flywheel is nice. But remember. The lighter the wheel, the less rotating mass you have. Hole shots will take more rpms so that you don't bog off the line. Down shifts with out rev match or heal and toe will lock the rear tires for a moment. Used to call this compression patches. Your upshifts will take some getting use to. As the engine will now spin faster and lose rpms faster between shifts. And with a lighter flywheel. It may set off the knock sensors.

My set-up would be the Z1 14 lbs flywheel. The OS Giken TR series dual disk clutch, ZSpeed CMAK, RJM clutch pedal, Tilton master cylinder Coolworxs shifter, and a Z1 poly tranny mount. And pray that it doesn't set off the knock sensors.

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JARblue

I'm going with Joe's steel flywheel (thought it was 17 lbs, not 18 but w/e). He recommended it to me even when I asked for the lightest one possible. Not buying anything Z1 anymore, so their flywheel is out.

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RN SHARK

I have the Z1 road race clutch/flywheel package, Z1 CSCEK, Nismo pilot bearing, RJM pedal and CMC, Z1 poly trans bushings, Coolerworx shifter. Easy to drive on and off the track, no knock sensors set off. I think it is a great set up.

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'09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare
'14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S

-ZS-Carpenter

Exactly why I have no interest in one. If it was track only sure but it's not.

Read of too many people that have had nothing but problems with the Z1 CSC delete and the ride back to the G after the breakdown was in a car with the Z1 kit. I truly believe that one was not installed right, it felt like something was binding when depressing the pedal.
Anyway the Zspeed CMAK has been on the list of too dos for a long time.

And I don't do any real competitive drag racing. The 1/2 mile event I do is more like a 2 day free for all test and tune than something like the TX 1/2 mile or WannaGoFast. I really thought that is where I would break the CSC by doing repetitive launches with the 2 step after it was already a bit hot but a lazy 2-3 on a cool morning was all the more she could take.


I'm really looking at the rjm pedal and going with the Z1 kit+mount, Zspeed cmak, oem cmc, and only be slightly over budget once I add the little stuff and a few tools. I got a head coming for the floor jack too.


That would be my second pick. It looks like a really nice setup. The weight savings and $$ savings are both pointing me this way. I get the lightest steel FW and half the rjm pedal is paid for.

-ZS-Carpenter

After staring at the rjm web site an hour and seeing only 6 left I pulled the trigger. If i thought about it any longer they would be out of stock. It takes a couple weeks to build and ship anyway so might as well get that ball rolling.

SPDKING

You're relocating something out of the original location the engineers designed it to be and work in. Just like someone said, there are teething problems because of always adjusting the clutch and the install is a little more time consuming versus basically just doing a regular clutch install like the Heavy Duty CSC. The pedal feel is also consistent as well. The heavy duty CSC also costs less. Z Speed makes both the CMAK and the HD CSC, talk to them. Also, I thought you didn't care for the heavier flywheels? Why not just get the 15 or 14lb ones and call it a day?

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JARblue

The CMAK is self-adjusting. The Z1 CSCEK has to be adjusted.

I've had the Z1 kit for several years now. It is an annoyance (though easy) to adjust and it's not made with quality parts. I've had to replace the cylinder about every 12-15K miles (over 50K miles on the kit). I thought I might be doing something wrong, but I still experienced the same failure rate even after having Austin Z Clinic replace it for me.

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Jayhovah

My HD-CSC has been problem free... I feel similarly to SPDKING here. Moving to an HD-CSC solves the problem without making a larger design change from what the Nissan engineers intended.

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JARblue

If you'll remember the 350Z had some similar CSC issues with the internal OEM one and Nissan designed an external slave for later year models. The Z1 kit was based off that design. So it's not like Nissan hasn't done a major design change like this before...

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Jayhovah

Didn't know that, and I had a 350! Surprised they made a similar mistake on the 370.

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BettyZ

I, for one, am not surprised at all.

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SPDKING

Yes but there has to be reason why they went back to that, they aren't Porsche where they are stubborn and won't change a design.

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Spooler

Well, the above is a load of crap. I have driven for years with an aluminum flywheel that has steel frictions. It works just fine. I am not sure where folks got that from. Guess it is internet rumor.

As far as what clutch to get, that is so hard to say. Everyone has their own expectations. Call Joe at Zspeed and talk to him since he deals with this stuff constantly.