New clutch time

SPDKING

I think they more sound like two nuts rattling in a tin can..Two very large nuts....that's why our cars push out so much power haha. If your driving style requires a lightweight flywheel then it should be fine. Just expect off the line performance to suffer, cruising ability to suffer and you'll have to be timing your shifts faster and fuel economy going down aka you're going to have to adjust your driving style. In any event, if you don't care about that, why not just go balls deep and get the 15lb flywheel so you get the most out of this upgrade? It's a steeper learning curve than the 20lb but you'll get more bang for buck.
Jim Wolf Technology website

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-ZS-Carpenter

I don't want an aluminum flywheel and the iron JWT flywheel is 26lbs.

What problems are they having? I've seen nothing but praise with the V2.


Anyone running Z1s 14lb flywheel? I was told to go as light as possible and I can piece meal the parts with a Z1 clutch and Zspeed hydraulics for about $1350.

It's down to that or the Zspeed kit for $1450 with a 18lb flywheel.

I picked up a metric set off amazon. Nothing super fancy but should get the job done just fine.


Going to start draining fluids and pulling parts off it today.

Rusty

The aluminum flywheel uses a steel ring for the fiction area of the clutch disk. What I have read. It's not a good DD flywheel. The steel ring doesn't transfer the heat too good to the aluminum. For track, it good.

Most people seem to have to adjust the Z1 CMAK set up more often. The ZSpeed is set it and forget it. There have been some teething problems with both. But the ZSpeed is the one I would get.

That Z1 14lbs flywheel is nice. But remember. The lighter the wheel, the less rotating mass you have. Hole shots will take more rpms so that you don't bog off the line. Down shifts with out rev match or heal and toe will lock the rear tires for a moment. Used to call this compression patches. Your upshifts will take some getting use to. As the engine will now spin faster and lose rpms faster between shifts. And with a lighter flywheel. It may set off the knock sensors.

My set-up would be the Z1 14 lbs flywheel. The OS Giken TR series dual disk clutch, ZSpeed CMAK, RJM clutch pedal, Tilton master cylinder Coolworxs shifter, and a Z1 poly tranny mount. And pray that it doesn't set off the knock sensors.

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-ZS-Carpenter

Exactly why I have no interest in one. If it was track only sure but it's not.

Read of too many people that have had nothing but problems with the Z1 CSC delete and the ride back to the G after the breakdown was in a car with the Z1 kit. I truly believe that one was not installed right, it felt like something was binding when depressing the pedal.
Anyway the Zspeed CMAK has been on the list of too dos for a long time.

And I don't do any real competitive drag racing. The 1/2 mile event I do is more like a 2 day free for all test and tune than something like the TX 1/2 mile or WannaGoFast. I really thought that is where I would break the CSC by doing repetitive launches with the 2 step after it was already a bit hot but a lazy 2-3 on a cool morning was all the more she could take.


I'm really looking at the rjm pedal and going with the Z1 kit+mount, Zspeed cmak, oem cmc, and only be slightly over budget once I add the little stuff and a few tools. I got a head coming for the floor jack too.


That would be my second pick. It looks like a really nice setup. The weight savings and $$ savings are both pointing me this way. I get the lightest steel FW and half the rjm pedal is paid for.

Spooler

Well, the above is a load of crap. I have driven for years with an aluminum flywheel that has steel frictions. It works just fine. I am not sure where folks got that from. Guess it is internet rumor.

As far as what clutch to get, that is so hard to say. Everyone has their own expectations. Call Joe at Zspeed and talk to him since he deals with this stuff constantly.

-ZS-Carpenter

If I get rained out I'll give him a call. Hard to find time during business hours when I'm working 12+ a day.

I think I have a pretty good list going. I've got a little time before placing the order and will give Joe a call if I get a chance to.

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Rusty

Hey crappy head. I got my info from some track rats. First hand.

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Spooler

Like I said, I have done it for years. Never had one issue driving one on the street.

BettyZ

Yessss, Flywheel War IV! I'll keep it going: I have a Grok Industries millstone in my Flintstonemobile and haven't had a problem since 5100 B.C.

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Rusty

Ok, I'm home now, and not distracted. Last year at a trackday. Was talking to a couple of other drivers. The subject of aluminum flywheels come up. The consensus was that they are great for the track. For street use. There is more slipping of the clutch to get moving because of lack of inertia. You have to change your driving style for it. In stop and go traffic. This extra slipping has lead to deep heat spots on the friction ring. A couple guys said that it affected disk life and feel for the clutch. 3 said that they switched back to steel. The other 4 still running the aluminum. But these guys change the friction ring on a regular schedule. The one guy had a pic on his phone and the friction ring was a solid blue. To turn blue. That's about 650F to 750F.

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SPDKING

You're relocating something out of the original location the engineers designed it to be and work in. Just like someone said, there are teething problems because of always adjusting the clutch and the install is a little more time consuming versus basically just doing a regular clutch install like the Heavy Duty CSC. The pedal feel is also consistent as well. The heavy duty CSC also costs less. Z Speed makes both the CMAK and the HD CSC, talk to them. Also, I thought you didn't care for the heavier flywheels? Why not just get the 15 or 14lb ones and call it a day?

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-ZS-Carpenter

It's almost like you didn't read the thread at all.

As I said above a few days ago, going with Z1 14lb flywheel.

Other than guessing that moving to a cmak will cause issues just because, can you point to any thread where people are having problems with the V3.x cmaks. Any actual instances of recurring issues? I have seen nothing but praise since the V2 was released. If I missed something post some links, until then it's either hearsay or conjecture.

And I'll say it again. The trans won't go back in the car with the hydraulics inside the bell housing. I don't care how great the HDCSC might be. If it fails the trans has to come out and there is a good chance it will ruin the clutch disk when it sprays brake fluid inside the bell housing when it goes. Until I smoke this clutch the trans is staying in the car.

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SPDKING

Call Z Speed, they literally make BOTH of them and did testing on both of them. It was the Owner of L Spec in California that talked about the CMAK issues and Z Speed recommending the HD CSC over the CMAK when I was planning on getting the CMAK. That was a while ago and so I don't have links for you except those two companies

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JARblue

Umm... I would argue that the CSC and ESCL issues on the 370Z are excellent examples of Nissan being stubborn. Bottom line is a recall doesn't happen until the money says it's ok. I wonder how many people paid $1000+ for ESCL replacement before issuing the recall and then removing it altogether.

Good call. That's why I went with the Z1 kit back in the day over the HDCSC from Joe. I probably ended up with more issues but I never had to drop the transmission again even when I was having to screw with the Z1 kit. New clutch is an opportunity to upgrade to the CMAK now

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Rusty

I'm going to talk to Joe in October. I have some ideas that I want to discuss with him. Something along the lines of 14 to 17 flywheel, the TR series of OS Giken or a Tilton clutch, and his CMAK.

The idea behind the light weight flywheel is to reduce rotating mass. If you can do it with a combination of flywheel and pressure plate without losing strength and heat dissipation and still meet your goals is even better.

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