An oil cooler is just a big heatsink for the oil. Setrab core is just a higher quality heatsink - cheap ones can get punctured by a rock while driving, which will really ruin your day.

The thermostatic sandwich plate closes when temps are cool and opens when temps heat up. This helps the oil in the engine heat up faster after a cold start than if it were being pumped through the oil cooler. The block off plate basically is a poor man's thermostat - thin piece of sheet metal and some hi-temp velco on the front of the oil cooler will do the trick - for when the cold winter air during casual driving is cooling off the oil too much.

The plate only shuts off the lines to the oil cooler - the filter is still working. That would a horrible design if not.

The oil pump is what moves engine oil through the oil filter. The oil cooler doesn't turn on and off. When you plumb in an oil cooler to the system, it just gives the oil another path to go. The thermostat controls that path and opens it at a certain temperature.

Not a damn thing unless you fùck up the install...

Setrab is a core in the oil cooler, helps you flex on the haters. I'm kidding, about the flexing part. If you go to Z1 you will see that their oil cooler options gives you a choice between a Setrab core or a Mocal Core. Both are very good brands, however I went with Setrab since it has some high end customers it supplies to:

We supply many of the world’s premium car brands, e.g. Aston Martin, Audi, Bentley, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Lexus, Lotus, and Mercedes, as well as many other vehicle manufacturers, e.g. Bobcat, Husqvarna, Scania, Volvo, and Wirtgen. Our products are also highly suitable for a number of stationary applications

Also the Setrab cost more than the Mocal, just thought I'd share that so you are not blown away. Oh, make sure you get the protected braided lines and thermostatic plate as well to deal with cooler temps in the fall and winter.

All in all I would go with Z1 for the oil cooler, but that's my opinion. Fast Intentions make a wicked product to.

Dude, you're not being annoying. This is a part of the learning process and that's why there is a forum to ask such questions. Just pass on the knowledge to someone else when the time comes.

Background. I have the Z1 34 row oil cooler. Been running it for years. My opinion. There is only 2 oil coolers to get. The Z1 or the FI 34 row coolers. Get a 34 row cooler. The smaller coolers will help, but may not be large enough sometimes. You can always add some block plates if the oil is too cold.

The stock oil filter will fit with the thermostatic plate. Which is a must, unless you are a totally track car. When closed. The plate is still open about 10%. This is to warm the oil in the cooler. The why to this is because you don't want cold oil flowing into a hot motor when the plate opens fully. This would cause some thermo shock to some engine parts.

Oil flow.

When cold. From the oil pump to the thermostatic plate. (About 10% of oil will flow to the cooler and back to the oil passages.) From the plate to the filter. Filter to the oil passages.

When hot. From oil pump to plate. From plate to cooler, Cooler to filter, Filter to oil passages.

Why would people run larger filters though? Whats the purpose or benefit behind using a bigger one versus our OE filter? :/

To capture more particles in the oil. Or because those people are compensating for their undersized manhood.

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You beat me to it..... :shakes head:

Everything else being the same, larger filters work better - as mentioned above, they will hold more dirt before plugging up (and there will be slightly less pressure drop). But, if you are changing your oil/filter frequently, it shouldn't make any difference - you will be changing the filter before it get saturated with dirt. If you extend the time between changes, a larger filter might be of some benefit.

Most guys down here just buy a pick-up truck.... :eek:

Nissan Titan filters probably really bother the owners.

If I remember correctly, the Z and the Titan run the same filter.

Reminds me of when i pulled off the oil pan, saw the oil strainer, and said out loud "wtf? I thought this car was a she..."

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So I don't need a block off plate being that I'm going to purchase the Thermo Plate, yeah? So pretty much this Thermo Plate just controls oil temp and without it, I'd be fu'cked? Also do I really need to mock up a "block off plate" or can I live without it? Lol. Also during this install, I don't need to remove my stock Oil Cooler do I? Lemme know. Thanks

Nah Titans have 9E, Z's are 65F0E

Got it! Yeah I do my own work, oil changes I do ever 3k even though I use Fully Synthetic, its just a piece of mind. So OE Filer will do. Thanks!

Perfect I'll make sure not to cheap out on my Z. Thank you for the info!

Block off plate can literally be lines of duct tape that you put on the front of your oil cooler during the winter. Thermo plate stops oil from flowing unimpeded to the cooler before your engine is warm enough... so basically yes. And yes you keep your stock oil cooler on the car

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See that's the only thing out of the entire explanation that everyone has given me, what the hell are block off plates???? Like what?! Lol Like do I truly need them? Where do I get them? Where do they bolt onto?? I'm so confusion :/ and no I'm not taking my Z to the track maybe ever. So if I don't run a Thermo Plate I'll risk having cold oil going into a hot motor. Got cha. Thermo Plate for sure in my purchase!

Lines of Duct Tape lmaoo no way. I was picturing a metal cover BOLTING on some random spot in front of the Cooler haha. Is there any images of people who have covered them? Just so I have an idea. My main question is, DO I NEED to cover the cooler? :/ also If I do cover the oil cooler, I just simply remove it in the Spring?

Nevermind now I see what this "Block off Plate" is lol. Some nice sheet metal and Velcro! Someone else told me about this in this thread, took me this long to figure it out :happydance:

Imagine a super-thin sheet of aluminum or steel the height and width of the oil cooler. Imagine it flush against the front of the oil cooler. Then imagine it being held onto the cooler with duct tape lol

Yeahhh seen it haha. Thanks!

Serious question. How old are you and what do you do for a living? Trying to figure out a couple of things. Like your mechanical back ground. Because some of the terms you are having a hard time with. If we know. Might be easier to explain some things.

23, Auto Tech. If I don't understand some words it's only because I've been taught or learned to say it differently or I may have never heard of it such as a "Block off Plate". I'm not an A tech if you wanna know haha, nowhere near it, but yeah, like they're terms where I have no clue of wtf it is, until I see it and say "Oh ok its such and such". Nah I'm sayin? For example someone came up to me talking about his engine cradle is rusted out. I'm like wtf is that? He points and says, "that". I'm like " You mean a fu'cking subframe??" Hes like yeahhh same thing.. Like calling it an engine cradle will mean that entire piece is physically holding the engine nothing else but I can drop the SUBFRAME/ENGINE CRADLE and the motor will still be intact. You say "Rocker Cover" I say "Valve Cover" so that's where I'm getting at. Just not used to other terms of what I usually know.

:wtf2:

Well you definitely know what questions to ask, which is a lot more than I can say when I start a project lol

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you good?

Check this thread out I and everyone else put together.
http://www.the370z.com/new-370z-owne...very-370z.html

On all 370Z's, daily driven to track car, all need a oil cooler and a CSC elimination kit or a heavy duty CSC. The oil cooler was my first upgrade not a week after getting my car after it went into limp mode driving normally to my job when it was 70 degrees out. I got the Z1 34 row with Setrab and the protective wrap with the thermostatic sandwich plate even though I live in Southern California just to be safe. I would stay away from Mishimoto's products and I heard good things about the Stillen and Fast Intentions oil coolers. At this point, it's a requirement on every single 370Z to have a oil cooler.

I've been feeling a little tired, but I think I just need to get more sleep ;)

You was born tired. :rofl2:

Terminology can kill you real quick. Sometimes, it's like speaking a different language. For me. Going from steam turbine ( old school) to gas turbine (new school) . Two different words mean the same thing, the same piece of equipment. Best part, the damn pieces of equipment sit side by side. They tell you to work on piece X, but mean piece Y. You better check to make sure. If not. It could kill you.

You ain't lying!

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Weird. I see all of this about an oil cooler being a requirement, yet the highest temp I've seen on mine has been just shy of 200, and that was on a 90 degree day here in Florida. And since it's still new and I'm still having fun, I haven't been light on the throttle. I guess I have some questions. Like what's considered a high oil temp on this car? And what is limp mode? Is there anything in particular I should be looking for? And I assume CSC is clutch slave cylinder. So these fail at a ridiculous rate, then?

If you see 240 on the oil temp gauge, you can be sure the engine is already pulling timing. Expect actual oil temps to be about 20 degrees higher than the gauge. There are several levels of limp mode based on the temps. The last one is triggered around 280F actual oil temp and restricts RPMs to 3500.


CSC is a ticking time bomb. It will fail eventually. Best you can do without replacing it is hope you don't get stranded somewhere.

You have a 2019. Nissan installed a water to oil heat exchanger a couple years ago. It's some what effective under normal driving. Most won't see high temps unless they do some hard driving.

Holy s**t, didn't think Mishimoto would ever be that bad. Yeah after talking to several people on this forum, including yourself, for sure getting the Z1.

:iagree: Absolutely!

I've seen my car hit a MAX 230? Even at 200 its fairly high but honestly hitting 200+ is "normal operation" on our 370's. Limp mode from my understanding would be for example if you're lugging your engine, it'll go into limp mode to prevent catastrophic failure. Yes CSC is Clutch Slave Cylinder. For some odd reason, the Slave Cylinder are notorious to fail on our cars. Whether its 50k Miles of 5k Miles, it'll go when it wants. Here's a link to the Zspeed CMAK CSC thread that will direct you to a safer and more effective piece that'll prevent that from happening.

http://www.the370z.com/drivetrain-en...sc-delete.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...recommend.html

Z1, Stillen or Fast Intentions, they all use the same stuff I think except the Stillen only has 25 row and the Fast Intentions is the cheapest. I think the Stillen is the most expensive (not by much) if you don't care about the protective hose wrapping like on the Z1. Once you get the Z1, you probably will notice the car takes a longer time for the oil to warm up (at least that's what I noticed) but I think everyone has said that's normal. You can also get the Concept Z 34 Row Oil cooler. Again, they all basically use the same things, this one is actually the same exact thing as the Z1 but you get rewards points :D

https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-...x4_p_32824.php