Track Oil Temp Issues, looking for options.
 

So I was at a Track even over the weekend and the temps were in the low 60F and mostly cloudy. I didn't have a lot of traffic to pleanty of airflow in, wide open Stillen front bumper & 34 row Setrab oil cooler. Just to give you and idea of how hard I am pushing the car I get around 5.6 mpg so I am on full throttle as much as possible. The oil temps are getting around 260-265F and I feel the car getting a bit sluggish as the laps pile on.

What are my options? Another cooler, fan, pump to increase flow, something else, or a combination of the above?

http://www.the370z.com/members/2011-...-track-mpg.jpg

BTW Car is NA

I bow to your MPG.

All that heat needs a way out of the bay. Installing some vents in your hood seems like the most economical option.

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Also keep on mind that with an oil cooler hooked up, your temp reading is almost exactly 20 degrees cooler than it truly is, as the cooler oil returns to the pan basically on top of the temp sensor. So you're running in the 280s.

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Really now? See that I did not know. So If I see 90c I'm realistically running at 110c? Hmm.

I have a 48 row tru cool and #12 lines with very good results.

The difference is 20 degrees Fahrenheit. No idea what that is in Celsius. But probably less than 20.

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Very interested, I faced this issue after like two hot laps with moderate weather 75-85F, both oil and coolant was higher than what usually is. I have hood vents and their effect is minimum, my finding was they allow the engine to cool down way faster during cool down lap.

What I am thinking about doing is to go to higher viscosity oil, using 0w40 currently, will go to 0w50. Also, I am planning to make dual oil cooler by adding another core to my current one, and maybe adding high capacity oil pan to get more oil in the engine.

Don't believe so. Oil flow. Pump, cooler, filter, block passages, then back into the pan. The sensor is reading the oil coming back from the cooler.

The ECU starts to pull timing around 240F until 280F limp mode. That's why the car feels sluggish.

Couple of things can be done. Vented hood, oil pan spacer, CJM oil pan. The last 2 will increase oil capacity. Install an oil pressure gauge to track your oil pressure. The stock pump will read over 100 psi at high rpm's. Also a water temp gauge. TrackSpec hood vents lower my oil temps and water temps. I have the Z1 34 row oil cooler and a rare AM Perf. oil pan. Only about 20 of them made.

Make sure that your not bleeding air off inside the bumper. You should have guides inside the bumper to direct air flow to the radiator. If you don't, the air will take the least line of resistance and bleed around the radiator and not go through it. The stock Nismo bumper have guides.

Exactly. Assuming our concern is temp in the block, that temp is usually 20-22 degrees higher than the pan temp due to oil from the cooler coming directly to the sensor.

Highway driving in subfreezing temps with no block off plate on the cooler, my oil temp readout stays a consistent 160. Valve on the thermostatic plate fully opens at 180.

If our concern is ECU pulling timing due to high oil temps, then yes, whatever the sensor says is what the programming responds to. Just remember that oil temps in the block are 20 degrees higher than the sensor readout.

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I know at least one forum member cut out their front fascia from hood to crash bar and replaced it with mesh.

ZSpeed aluminum splash guard has an opening designed to allow airflow over the bottom of the oil pan.

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what hood do you have? not all are functionally vented
i think the fujimura one is most proven

also, maybe some fender vents would get get a bit more air out of the engine bay

Rusty, I have oem sport pre-facelift, zspeed undertray, and Trackspec hood vents.

BettyZ, I thought about taking the plastic in the facia and replace it with a mesh, so more air will be allowed through the engine bay, but didn't have the time to try it.

To really know what is going on. You have to have 2 temp sensors. One coming out of the pump before the cooler. One after the cooler to see what the delta is.

You have all 3 vents?

Fender vents don't vent the engine bay. They don't vent at all unless you cut holes in the inner fender liner. Then it vents the high pressure from the wheel well.

Those are some sexy fender vents - looks like an anatomy mannequin.

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Yes, all three, installed by the template provided.


when I installed them, I didn't notice any change in my temps, only change was when I go back to the pit lane the car is already cooled down, so no need to open the hood after finishing the session.

The biggest change was on my water temp. 80 mph plus for 4 hrs straight on a 95F day last year. My water temp never got above 215F, oil temp never above 195F. My diff temp climbed to 255F. Had to turn the diff cooler on. That took the temp back down to 200F.

Something doesn't seem right. I've run in Texas summer much hotter than this also with 34 row cooler and barely get to 240. Any chance you have something blocking airflow to the cooler? Also, do you do any datalogging? I'd recommend you get Harry's Lap Timer on an Android phone or tablet with Bluetooth interface. There's an extended PID set that will let you pull oil temp. Basically, you want to check both water and oil temps and see how quickly they rise and saturate. No need to hack up your hood until you can understand what's really happening. Hit me you have questions about the datalogging.
-Larry

OP has Stillen bumper. IMHO air is leaking past the radiator/oil cooler somehow.

The air has to go thru the oil cooler and radiator so look for even the smallest openings that allow high pressure air past the radiator/oil cooler.

Also, a sump extender or CJM baffled sump will add another litre+ which will help

I am thinking this might be an issue with the thermostat in the sandwich plate. Ordered a different brand (old=mocal, new=setrab) and will see what happens. List of relevant mods:
1. Zspeed undertray
2. Setrab 34 row oil cooler
3. CJM Baffeled oil pan.
4. Stillen front bumper.

I keep forgetting to add the PID for the oil temp to my Torque app, I use the AIM SoloDL for logging. Coolant temp (water&waterwetter) peak was 223F avg was 219F for my fastest lap. Nothing is blocking the cooler.

Aside, should I add an oil pressure sensor? I've been pushing this motor for awhile and am a bit worried about the oil galley gasket failing, seems to be an issue for 09-12 motors.

The tracks I run in AZ and CA during the spring and summer will see temps over a 100*. Being boosted only add heat so I have taken some extreme measures. I have a Greddy extended oil pan, upgraded the oil pump gears, added a 72 row oil cooler, switched from a Fugimura hood back to OEM with Trackspec hood vents, Zspeed under tray, and cut vents into the front bumper. My oil temps are dependent on the track configuration. If the track is less than 1.5 miles long it is very hard to have enough straight away to allow the oil temps to fall before rising again and I will hit temps about 260 to 265. Traffic on a small track is killer! My water temps stay in the normal range other than extended time behind cars on short tracks. I still don't see high water temps. The one of the best things about the hood vents is if you slow or pull in the pits the temps drop quickly. I have to remember to check my temps before I leave the track because they start falling on the cool down lap. Here is how she looked before my engine went boom. I will be adding side vents like Rusty and opening a large whole in the fender well.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1a23f33276.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...150dc1c9d6.jpg

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I added a Defi oil pressure sensor. I haven't taken it to the track yet, but it's nice to see the oil pressure vs. temperature relationship. I added it for the peace of mind after installing the oil cooler myself (It was really the first non-trivial mod I'd done myself, and I was worried about messing something up)

Oil pressure sensor is a must-have for peace of mind. Be sure to get one that can read up to 150psi.

Oil galley gaskets are something you can DIY, if you have the space and a minimum of mechanical aptitude. I did it myself basically using nothing but this forum and the FSM. Nice thing ab doing that is that, while you're in there, you might as well upgrade the oil pump, new radiator, baffled oil pan, maybe some new camshafts...

At the very least you can strip out unneeded **** from the bay and replace the factory looms with braided looms to allow more airflow. Did that myself if you want tips.

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Hotrodz have you considered adding heat sinks to the bottom of your oil pan or widening the slot in the ZSpeed undertray?

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My new splitter was fabricated so I don't need the Zspeed under tray and allows for more air flow and it can easily be modified if I need to make additional adjustments.

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I suppose removing the undertray completely does provide a tad more airflow than hacking away at the slot :roflpuke2:

Yes, but you have to decide it the turbulence at high speed is a detriment and unsafe. I don't know if you are old enough to remember when State Highway Patrol departments were using the old 5.0 Mustangs? They would remove the front air dam/splitter and under tray to be able to cross medians between the highway. The result was at about 105 mph the car would get airborne and could flip over. There were several deaths attributed to the modification.

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I've only been around since the Crown Vic era. Makes sense though. Your splitter ameliorates this issue? Or are you auditioning for "The Miracle of Flight" lol

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LMAO, I no desire to become an aviator in my racecar!

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Going forward, you have down force. Going backwards, you have lift. :eek:

I'm going to be cutting a larger hole in the fender liner later on. :driving:

I think those fender liners hold a lot more heat in the engine bay than we realize. That area holds a lot of air an is a parachute do to it being low pressure and it creates lift at the same time.

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Hmm. Sounds like it's time for Mr. Fender to meet Mr. Angle Grinder.

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Be careful. The fender liner cut easy with a 4" fiber cut off wheel.

I hear ya. I wonder how easily it'd cut with a hot knife.

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I have 2* 34row coolers in parallel, CSF triple pass radiator, SPAL fans, Zele front bumper, Varis kamikaze hood, Varis fender, front fender liner delete, and Mishimoto 68C/154.5F thermostat for oil temp and water temp control. My car is capable of doing endurance race and oil temp remains at around 110C/230F at around 40C/104F ambient temp here in Taiwan.

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Danggggg you got it going ON. looks like theres room for a 3rd 34 row cooler in the middle tho lol

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I was wondering, I'm planning to get a Mishimoto Oil Cooler just because I feel as if my oil temps get too high, highest I've seen mine go was around 240 ON A DAILY COMMUTE. Never tracked my car. I was wondering if anyone here can help me understand if its a waste of money to get the oil cooler and is it bad to get one if I'm not tracking the car?