Pedal, ecu, or another issue?

ColtronZ

After work today my car decided it didn't want to run properly. The car was normal in 1st, 2nd, and maybe 3rd gear. After that pressing the pedal did not make the car accelerate really and it just kinda sunk into the floorboards. I accelerated ever so slowly while the rpms rose. The car was shifting at 3500 - 4500 rpms. Luckily, I got it home and reflashed my ecu. I am ecutek tuned and my tuner never heard of this issue. This seems to resolve the problem. For now. I am worried there is another issue at hand.

Any ideas?

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318hp/255tq made by FI Res Test Pipes, FI Non-Res Catback, Z1 Intakes, and EcuTek Tuned by RS-Enthalpy

JARblue

Did you check for any DTCs? I know there are some codes that can be triggered without any dash lights illuminating.

When you say the pedal just kind of sunk to the floorboard, did the pedal response change at all? As in, did the pedal pressure feel normal while pushing it down to the floor or did it get softer or something else?

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SouthArk370Z

Knowing if any codes were thrown would be a big help (see JARblue's comment above). If you don't have a reader, you can go to most auto parts stores and they will loan or rent you one (some will even go out to the parking lot and read the code for you). Or spend $20-100 and get your own (20 will get you a basic reader, 100 gets more features).

My guess is that the reflash didn't do anything to fix the problem - it just reset everything back to ground zero.

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Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

redondoaveb

When I reflash my Ecutek tune it asks me if I want to clear any DTC's.

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
700+whp

ColtronZ

The pedal definitely felt softer. Unfortunately, I cleared the DTCs without even thinking they could of showed just not thrown a CEL.

I have the Bluetooth ecutek dongle so I could of grabbed the code :/ I've been tuned for months with no issue. I'm no expert, initially I thought TPS or Throttle Bodies could be the issue?

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318hp/255tq made by FI Res Test Pipes, FI Non-Res Catback, Z1 Intakes, and EcuTek Tuned by RS-Enthalpy

Spooler

I have had he issue stock before. I just turn the car off and disconnect the drivers side throttle body and plug it back in. That fixes it. Try cleaning your throttle bodies.

SouthArk370Z

Since it's drive-by-wire throttle, a change in pedal feel sounds like the problem could be in the pedal. Should throw a DTC.

At this point, could be either one. TPS sensor failure is not all that common and, unless you've put a lot of miles on a 2017, dirty TBs shouldn't be a problem. But they haven't been ruled out, yet.

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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

ColtronZ

Today it felt normal, I've been checking the DTCs every time I turn it off and nothing.

I did read that the ECU and Throttle Bodies go hand in hand so maybe cleaning my filters and Throttle Bodies will help. Now that I think of it, it idled low yesterday morning. I've only put ~10k miles on it since it got it in Oct of 17.

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318hp/255tq made by FI Res Test Pipes, FI Non-Res Catback, Z1 Intakes, and EcuTek Tuned by RS-Enthalpy

JLarson

Had this same problem a couple times back to back. Cleaned the TB's and it went away (~15k-20k miles with no repeats).

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2014 370z Touring Sport Magma Red MT // BP Single Turbo 6467 // 63mm TB's // Z1 Ported Upper Mani // RJM Pedal // Zspeed Stage 3 Clutch // 526 WHP, 451 WTQ
2006 350z (Sold) // 1990 300zx (Sold) // 1985 300zx 2+2 (Sold)

ColtronZ

Today the car was normal again no DTCs. Checked air filters they're not very dirty. Checked driver's side throttle body and it looked clean but that was only from the intake side (usually the cleaner side from my understanding). Passenger side intake hose wouldn't budge so I didn't check it. Assuming it should be as clean as the drivers.

Not trying to take apart the car on a week night either. I guess I'll run it until it happens again.

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318hp/255tq made by FI Res Test Pipes, FI Non-Res Catback, Z1 Intakes, and EcuTek Tuned by RS-Enthalpy

JARblue

I wouldn't worry about it until it happens again. Don't stress about it, just be prepared for it. No big deal as a DD IMO unless you rely on a strict schedule. If the car is for tracking or autoXing, though, the loss of a paid day at the track won't be fun (5x 20 min sessions can easily run upwards of a $1000 at COTA depending on the groups you run with).

I've got an extra pedal assembly just FYI in case you find that to be the issue.

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JLarson

When you checked the TB, did you move the butterfly valve to see behind it? That's where the sludge accumulates. Mine was all kinds of gunked up, on both sides.

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2014 370z Touring Sport Magma Red MT // BP Single Turbo 6467 // 63mm TB's // Z1 Ported Upper Mani // RJM Pedal // Zspeed Stage 3 Clutch // 526 WHP, 451 WTQ
2006 350z (Sold) // 1990 300zx (Sold) // 1985 300zx 2+2 (Sold)

ColtronZ

Sadly, it happened again. Luckily, I made it to work. Contacted my tuner now I wait.

Attached Images

Screenshot_20190312-075909.png (51.1 KB, 11 views)

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318hp/255tq made by FI Res Test Pipes, FI Non-Res Catback, Z1 Intakes, and EcuTek Tuned by RS-Enthalpy

JARblue

Code appears to be MAF-related. Did you ever clean your MAFs and TBs? I would start there. It's a good maintenance item and it's easy.

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ColtronZ

Throttle bodies looked clean, didn't do MAFs. Guess I'm going to learn today. Why would it work on a reflash though for months?

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318hp/255tq made by FI Res Test Pipes, FI Non-Res Catback, Z1 Intakes, and EcuTek Tuned by RS-Enthalpy