So I decided it was a good idea to not check my fluids before heading to the strip and while trying to figure out why my launch control wasn't working
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12-11-2018, 05:25 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Getting a built short block, reuse timing chains?
So I decided it was a good idea to not check my fluids before heading to the strip and while trying to figure out why my launch control wasn't working I pumped what little oil I had in the heads.
One spun rod bearing later I emailed a few vendors about their short blocks and settled on AAM. The were the first to respond and took care of locating a core so I didn't have to and to boot their time frame was the shortest (not that I intend to hold them to that at this time of year). While I fully intend to get new crank gear, tensioners and guides, is it worth the extra ~$250 to do new chains or is there no issue in reusing my 70k chains?
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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap |
12-11-2018, 06:25 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Fair enough I guess. Just don't see the point in buying something I don't need to.
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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap |
12-11-2018, 06:44 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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You need to. Why be penny wise and dollar foolish?
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12-11-2018, 06:55 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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First off, why would you use AAM? They have a questionable business practice. Your best bet would be to get a low mileage junk yard engine from a 2013 and up. Building an engine is not something you skimp on or you will be doing it twice.
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12-11-2018, 07:07 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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We will see as far as the Aam part goes. I’ll be sure to update but I doubt I will see anything until feb some time.
As I said I am not trying to skimp. The maual doesn’t say anything that I can find about replacing them at a certain mileage and I have no issue with getting new ones.
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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap |
12-11-2018, 07:28 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
AAM started good, then somewhere they started going down hill and I don't think they have hit bottom yet. Every motor I built. I used new timing chains. Every motor builder I know uses new timing chains. You reusing your old timing chains. The chains may have bits stuck in it from you last motor waiting to come out.
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12-11-2018, 07:32 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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12-11-2018, 08:05 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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I have a aam stage 1 short block for about a year. It has treated me very well. AAM did mess the plumbing up my waste gate and bov , so I had to fix that. BUT they did stand with there workmanship and gave me a free intake mani for fixing a few vacuum lines. I would call them good but not great, really good price thought. I would chalk up the experiance of the vaccum lines of running it for a tt setup like the one they make, not the bp kit.
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12-11-2018, 08:45 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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I would not even install a new or rebuilt engine unless the timing chains were replaced it’s cheap insurance think about it. Also don’t forget to install a new water pump and oil pump.
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12-11-2018, 10:01 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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The oil pump is a must. Go for a Sucker Punch oil pump from MAM.
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12-12-2018, 07:47 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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They are installing the Boundary Engineering gears in a new OEM pump for me.
For the sake of clarity that I am not a cheap skate lol and had what I thought was a legitimate question, the parts I will be using (revised to include the chains) along with my current heads, intake manifolds and timing covers are: OEM gasket kit Z1 OEM timing chain kit with all 3 tensioners, guides, crank gear, water pump and thermostat Z1 valve stem seals ARP L19 head studs JWT C2 exhaust cam/spring kit We don't have the access to the machine shops you guys do up there, which is why I opted to get a short block from someone familiar with the building VQ vs getting the parts and building it locally. I have to add 27% tax to anything I import so a few hundred here and there REALLY start to add up.
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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap Last edited by sirnixalot; 12-12-2018 at 07:53 AM. |
12-12-2018, 08:53 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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Put in a new radiator also. With 70K on the old one, you have no idea what crap is still in there, plus you can never flush all of it out. In the grand scheme of things, this is dirt cheap insurance.
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12-12-2018, 09:07 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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I'll be sticking with the OEM for now. Until I can find a condenser from another Nissan model that has the same quick disconnect fittings as ours. Then I can weld some mounting provisions to a Koyo.
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