Spark Plugs not firing
 

So my Z has been down for about a month now, and I can’t seem to figure out why the car all of a sudden quit on me. One night i went to the store with a friend and the car drove fine all the way there. Once we went in and got what we needed, we came back outside and the car didn’t want to start. Ended up towing it to a friend’s house and changed out the camshaft position sensor in bank 1. Car ran fine for about a week and a half, and decided not to start back up again one night. Changed out the camshaft position sensor in bank 2 and the car started, but the RPMs would drop and shoot back up to normal idle every couple of seconds. Shut the car off and it wouldn’t start back up. Changed the crankshaft position sensor, but the car still wont start. All of the fuses are still good, fueling is good, but the car is getting no spark for some odd reason. The coil packs have good voltage but the engine is still not getting spark. i have a 2016 370z Touring with almost 41K miles. Mods consist of: Stillen Gen 3 Intake, Megan Racing Test Pipes, muffler delete, and UpRev Tune. Any help would be highly appreciated


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Which DTCs are showing up?

Sorry, forgot to mention. Car is throwing no codes. Battery has been tested and is good. The car will crank, but won’t start


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I would really appreciate it if someone could help me out and maybe give me some insight on what the potential issue could be. I've done all the research I can, but there is not a lot of information about these cars due to the fact that most people just take them to the dealership or local shop to fix everything. Being in Mississippi, there arent any shops like such nearby that could lend me a hand.

Have you tried hooking up an OBDII reader and looking to see if any parameters look off. I fight the air temp on my old tacoma all the time and need to disconnect the sensor. If you MAF sensor is off it may be telling the computer air intake is too hot to start engine.

What do you mean by "good voltage?" The coils are getting pulses that are, at best, very difficult to read properly with a VOM. If the coils are getting a constant 12V, then I suspect a failed ECM or one of the sensors that the ECM uses to determine spark timing.

Right. I should have said power. The test light was pulsing as I attempterd to start the car

I hooked up my computer to the OBDII port via UpRev cable. That is how I determined that the car was getting no spark

Crank and no start is 95% of the time the crankshaft sensor or the wires leading to it. It sounds like the wires got too close to the test pipes and have melted, since the sensor itself is on the rear of the engine, near the starter. Crawl under the car with a good light and you'll probably find the problem quickly.
:tiphat:

Was going to say the same thing. If cranking and no spark, no codes look in the data and see what engine rpm is

You said fueling is good, what method did you use to check it? Physically opened fuel line? Fuel pressure gauge or maybe took out the spark plug to see if it’s wet from fuel?

:iagree:

The wires connecting to the sensor are good. No issue with them at all


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For anyone that may be interested, I got the car back on the road. We believe the camshaft position sensors went out, and then the fuel pump followed. The car ended up sparking. Did not know you had to ground the spark plug before seeing if it would spark. I stalled the walbro 255lph fuel pump with an install kit since you have to modify the factory assembly. But the car runs fine now. If anyone has any questions about the fuel pump install, i will be more than happy to answer


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