I don’t know anything about your build but I can pretty much guess what happen. At 4K rpms your turbo(s) spooled up and you got hit with 450/500 ft-lbs of torque all at once. That’s going to bust the tires loose every time.

The solution is there isn’t one. Follow the rest of the advice and take time to learn the car.

Just recognized the screen name. You’re the one with the boost controller issue. If you truly saw 15psi then you probably got another 100+ ft-lbs of torque. You need to get that fixed or you’ll be looking by at a new block.

This too. Even when you've had the car for years and it's become totally predictable, sometimes a tire will hit a patch of something and you have a Code Brown moment.

Not to mention weight transfer. You hit a crest in the road under power and the rear gets light, hang on.

A >500whp Z is a constant lesson in applied physics with expensive penalties.

Curious if shouldn't the ecutek traction control help with this? Not saying it will stop driver error but give a little more chance for recovery time?

Ah, this sounded like fun. I need something like this to happen to get my adrenaline up. Not to worry, I am working on it. :)

Oh, it's going to happen (especially with your build), and it definitely get's your adrenaline up. But, I'm sure you already knew that. :rofl2:

Yeah thats rite.

I looked at the logs after this happend to me that night and there was a massive hike in RPM from 3500 onwards. It felt like it jumped to 4500 instantly after 3500. Probably when that boost spike occured. All good I am getting the EBC removed and hopefully that will knock back down my max boost.

And yeah OK everyone is saying I have to learn to drive it better, feather into the pedal etc. But I am suppose to be taking WOT logs here for my remote tuning, I thought it has to be pelted down the whole time, no babying for the tuning purpose?

You’re tuner should be giving you specific instructions for those data points (i.e. 3rd gear roll-on 3k-redline, etc). Is your tuner familiar with boosted VQs?

The quick jump in rpms you are referring to is when you lost traction. I’m surprised you didn’t redline it.

That’s why street tuning a TT Z for WOT scares the **** out of me. Do that stuff on the dyno and handle the part throttle drive ability stuff on the street.


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:iagree:Or at least on a track.

I bought the Z through a local dealer from another dealer and had to wait for delivery. In the week I waited, the dealer gave me a loaner Z that had essentially bald tires. One moderate throttle application mid-turn and I was slideways back and forth within inches of the curb multiple times. Without prior experience I would have had no shot at recovering, and it was still unexpected and scary as $hit. While I made sure to let the dealership have a piece of my mind for giving me a sports car with tires with 3/32" tread remaining, it was definitely a lesson that was reinforced hard: respect the powah.

With improper throttle application, a boosted Z can easily make brand new, warmed-up, performance tires act like they are bald :twocents:

As I understand it, if you are tracking the car, you may want to go further and get a cutoff switch for the yaw sensor.

The factory VDC button turns the ECU nanny down, but not completely off. Disabling the yaw sensor deactivates even more nanny functions.

(and I went and double-checked this time :) )

Dude - this is what happens with an excess of torque and a shortage of ability.

Do yourself a favour and leave VDC on

This and if you are using Ecutek your tuner should be able to add over boost protection. Mine is set at 15 psi and will immediately retard my power and drop revs to 5000 rpms. I have had my Z over boost on more than one occasion due to a waste gate issue and never had it cause me to loose traction.

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