Sounds like it’s coming from the top of the engine. Update(ish) yes ordered the gauge with warning light. Still way out on production. Ordered the galley gaskets so that’s this
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09-07-2018, 04:35 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Sounds like it’s coming from the top of the engine.
Update(ish) yes ordered the gauge with warning light. Still way out on production. Ordered the galley gaskets so that’s this weekend project, while im doing that I’m going to see if anything is loose. So far everything seems solid |
09-07-2018, 07:26 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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I would look for an exhaust leak and make 100% sure its all sealed, before I pulled the front cover off.
Just do a proper diagnosis, so you dont waste your time fixing the wrong thing. Get a mechanics stethascope and locate the real source of the noise. Last edited by SG4247; 09-07-2018 at 07:28 PM. |
09-07-2018, 08:20 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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I looked for one last time, the noise is definitely from the top. Me and other people have all listened. Even took a screw driver and did the little listen trick with it and popular opinion is top of engine/valve train. Or we could all just suck at hearing the location.
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09-07-2018, 08:35 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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I guess I should mention that I look it to my normal mechanic, had experience with mine and other Z’s, said it sounded like a lifter that he has fixed in another Z. But found it weird it was only making it after 2K
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09-08-2018, 09:20 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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check your oil pressure, your gallerys are blown out, youll have pieces of gasket floating in your oil pan. The top end isnt getting enough oil. my car was at 2-3 psi and it didnt set the warning light. i started the car one day, loud valve/top end noise, glaced at my oil pressure, 31 psi on cold start, i knew there was an issue.
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09-08-2018, 10:12 AM | #38 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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09-09-2018, 04:30 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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Looked under the manifold saw nothing. After two days of heating up the crank bolt, going through two breaker bars, I still couldn’t break it loose, so now I guess it’s going to a shop unless I can find a torch to use.
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09-10-2018, 10:16 AM | #40 (permalink) | |
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If those are ok, the proceed to remove intake and valve covers. Crank bolt - i used a blue mini torch, heat her up for 15 mins, and i used a CP cordless impact, it came right off. breaker bar is going to be hard to break it free, youll need a impact if its really tight.
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09-10-2018, 09:04 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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I used a corded impact to no avail with a heat gun. I think my problem wasn’t enough heat but this guy from work let me borrow a SnapOn 1/2” breaker bar and we got it to break free finally. So gotta back it up for the night I can continue on it Wednesday. Wednesday I plan on getting to the gaskets and we will know from there
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09-10-2018, 09:13 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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Since you put heat on the damper bolt. You may want to change the front seal.
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09-12-2018, 11:29 PM | #43 (permalink) | |
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And I have an update!!!! Obviously I’m not the fastest mechanic but I finally got the left cam cover off. and Found something, sorry I don’t know why the image came in sideways. Last edited by Jordan12berg; 09-12-2018 at 11:31 PM. Reason: Pic details |
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09-12-2018, 11:55 PM | #44 (permalink) | |
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In the picture. Do I spy a piece of gasket hanging down in the back?
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09-13-2018, 06:21 AM | #45 (permalink) |
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Ok well I read that I had to replace the crank bolt too, so when I head to the only Nissan dealer here in Atlanta greater area that has one I’ll make sure that they have that to.
And I knew you were bashing haha. I also noticed that now might be a good time to throw in some solid motor mounts.... Is part number 13510-31U10 what I need? I’m already swimming in cam gaskets, o rings, and gallery gaskets so what’s one more?! And you are correct that brown piece hanging outside of it’s home is the gasket Last edited by Jordan12berg; 09-13-2018 at 06:24 AM. Reason: I can’t spell and grammar |
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