VQ37vhr timing chain

jmroy6 · 04-18-2018, 04:17 PM

Happened overtime

Quote:

Originally Posted by b15

Do you think this happened over time or it was this way from the factory?

Jhill · 04-19-2018, 12:51 AM

That's why you do a dry and wet compression test. If an engine has sat or fuel has washed the rings out etc as squirt of oil through the spark plug holes and a retest will give a more realistic result.

Personally although it takes longer a leak down test will give a more accurate representation of an engines condition and how it will run. I've personally seen at least 3 engines that will pass a compression test yet have a misfire at idle due to valve leakage. Off idle the pistons move fast enough to not have a mis and will still build enough to pass a compression test but at idle it will still have a mis.

Jhill · 04-19-2018, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by husam2012

It's such a coincidence that I went through this just this last week. I had bought a used engine and upon trying to start it, it sounded like it jumped timing and it didn't sound good at all.

I took the cover off, retimed it(Identical procedure to the VR38DETT) so it was a breeze and finally got it running this weekend.

For anybody wondering on how they could go on doing the timing chain or anything timing chain related, you should look for the complete guide on the GTR forum.

It looks very intimidating at first but once you get the hang of it it becomes very simple and straight forward.

Good luck OP!

Concern here would be how did it jump time?

jmroy6 · 04-20-2018, 05:15 PM

My luck is never ending with this car

So did a cold compression test and here are the results

Cold motor
Cylinder 1 - 165psi
Cylinder 2 - 160psi
Cylinder 3- 168 psi
Cylinder 4 - 165psi
Cylinder 5 - 162psi
Cylinder 6 - 170psi

So i ran the car and pulled it out of the garage Because i wanted to do a warm comp test to compare. The cold readings seemed low/ and wanted to try a different gauge. So anyway as the rpms dropped to about 800. The car just shut off and now i cant even get ignition to turn on. The dash shows both fob key lights, first thought steering wheel lock. Nope, been there done that the fuse is already pulled. Now i dont know what to do. Thoughts?

Jhill · 04-20-2018, 06:51 PM

Both key fob lights? Meaning no fob detected?

jmroy6 · 04-20-2018, 07:29 PM

Thats correct

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jhill

Both key fob lights? Meaning no fob detected?

Jhill · 04-21-2018, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmroy6

Thats correct

I’ve never been a Nissan tech but have done other brands and all are fairly similar. That to me looks like you have an anti theft issue going on. Any chance you have a second fob to try? If you have a scan tool with the anti theft module accessible (I think Nissan calls it NATS) and if anything in data says anything about anti theft or key invalid etc then somehow your anti theft went screwy. Can try a key re learn, also some years had some issue with the column lock but I’m uncertain the symptom of that wether it be a no start security light, a start but locked column, or a no start no security light (corvettes had a similar issue with a no start due to electric column lock in some years).

husam2012 · 04-23-2018, 02:46 PM

Also to give you some relief, I had similar results using a harbor freight compression test kit so don't worry a lot about the numbers but just how close they are to each other.

Good luck!

04-19-2018, 12:51 AM	#17 (permalink)
Jhill Track Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: San jose Posts: 854 Drives: 2013 370z sport Rep Power: 3384	That's why you do a dry and wet compression test. If an engine has sat or fuel has washed the rings out etc as squirt of oil through the spark plug holes and a retest will give a more realistic result. Personally although it takes longer a leak down test will give a more accurate representation of an engines condition and how it will run. I've personally seen at least 3 engines that will pass a compression test yet have a misfire at idle due to valve leakage. Off idle the pistons move fast enough to not have a mis and will still build enough to pass a compression test but at idle it will still have a mis. Last edited by Jhill; 04-19-2018 at 12:55 AM.

04-20-2018, 05:15 PM	#19 (permalink)
jmroy6 Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: CT Posts: 179 Drives: Spirited Rep Power: 235	My luck is never ending with this car So did a cold compression test and here are the results Cold motor Cylinder 1 - 165psi Cylinder 2 - 160psi Cylinder 3- 168 psi Cylinder 4 - 165psi Cylinder 5 - 162psi Cylinder 6 - 170psi So i ran the car and pulled it out of the garage Because i wanted to do a warm comp test to compare. The cold readings seemed low/ and wanted to try a different gauge. So anyway as the rpms dropped to about 800. The car just shut off and now i cant even get ignition to turn on. The dash shows both fob key lights, first thought steering wheel lock. Nope, been there done that the fuse is already pulled. Now i dont know what to do. Thoughts? __________________ 2012 370z GTM SC

04-23-2018, 02:46 PM	#23 (permalink)
husam2012 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 550 Drives: 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 9469	Also to give you some relief, I had similar results using a harbor freight compression test kit so don't worry a lot about the numbers but just how close they are to each other. Good luck! __________________ Creator of the GTR TT Conversion Kit, NA Record Holder (401WHP) Ecutek Master Tuner (VQ37, VR30, VR38, B58, S55, S58) BTWTuning

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04-20-2018, 06:51 PM	#20 (permalink)
Jhill Track Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: San jose Posts: 854 Drives: 2013 370z sport Rep Power: 3384	Both key fob lights? Meaning no fob detected?