Originally Posted by LinPark If one doesn't put many miles on a car in a year, is it safe to run synthetic oil based on mileage instead of months? Thanks!
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04-01-2012, 08:24 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Every other type of measurement is in engine hours. Boats, pumps, motors etc. are all measured with run time not storage time. Something to remember is if you keep your car stored in a tempature that stays the same and is a dry or dryer climate then you can stretch your time of oil changes. If it gets hot and cold cycled often you will have a little bit of moisture build up but you should start the car and let it get up to operating temp atleast every other week to ensure the seals don't dry rot on you and you don't get hard spots in the tires. That is my 2 cents worth.
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04-03-2012, 05:28 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
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If it's been 8 months and 2500 miles, I'd laugh in their stupid faces if they even tried to insinuate it was an issue. |
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04-03-2012, 07:35 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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i have said it before, i think oil changes should be measured by RPMs not miles. I believe this is how Hondas oil metering works, the computer counts the engine revolutions and when it reaches a certain number the "change oil" reminder starts blinking. I saw a Honda truck go over 10k miles before the reminder turned on, and Honda stood behind it. They said change the oil only when the truck tells you to.
I change my oil (mobil 1) every six months but i only drive 10k miles a year. Last time i had it changed, the oil came out a nice gold color, and it was still transluscent.
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04-04-2012, 11:44 AM | #35 (permalink) |
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If you only drove 2k miles a year would you still change it every 6 months? Doesn't that also mean you should check the date on the oil when you buy it? What if its been sitting on the shelf for like 6 months?
Also, on the Honda item I'd be shocked if it uses RPM's - I'd bet it uses miles because my indicator drops to 15% at precisely 6k miles each time. I've been sending the oil into Blackstone Labs and have gotten to the point where I run the oil for almost 8,500 miles and it could go further (this is just basic Honda Oil) - so I have to believe that I could run Redline longer than that in a 370Z. I suppose I could take a sample of the oil from the 370Z and send it in without changing the oil. I've had this car for 2 years now - I changed the oil once with Nissan Ester at 1,100 miles and switched to Redline at 3,100 miles on 3/5/2011 - the car now has 5,900 miles but I haven't changed the Redline oil yet. Seems kinda sad to spend that much on oil and only use like 35% of its life. Guess I'll send it in to Blackstone Labs and ask them how it looks. I'll report back what they tell me. |
04-04-2012, 01:51 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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The time recommendation is based on the idea that if you go less than 1,000 miles a month, you are probably doing lots of short trips and never warm the oil up. I drive my car at least 30 minutes on the highway at 70+ MPH every time I drive it, it's not a problem. |
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04-04-2012, 01:55 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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I never thought about checking date on oil bottles ...what's considered bad. I do oil changes twice a year (when I take it out and when I put it back in storage) but I buy oil once a year because bulk is cheaper.
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04-04-2012, 03:34 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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[QUOTE=LinPark;1639485]If you only drove 2k miles a year would you still change it every 6 months? Doesn't that also mean you should check the date on the oil when you buy it? What if its been sitting on the shelf for like 6 months?
It doesn't matter how long oil has sat on a shelf, being that it is vaccum sealed from factory it wont collect moisture. HOWEVER, when you open the oil and remove the seal and don't use all the oil (1/2qt) that is when moisture will build up. |
04-04-2012, 03:52 PM | #39 (permalink) | |
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04-04-2012, 04:41 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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hmm, i do 5 solid and never use the "1/8" and it is always at the high mark dead center in the middle of the drilled hole. honestly the 1/8 doesn't matter.
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04-04-2012, 04:44 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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i did 5 qts and 1/8 and I also was dead center..hmmm interesting. I wonder if it has to do with the drain angles. Do you have just the front lifted. That could, I assume, leave some of the oil in the pan.
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05-12-2012, 11:13 AM | #42 (permalink) | |
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Good call, sir I was kind of hoping I could do it on two jack stands, but I will be using four thanks to your comment
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05-12-2012, 11:17 AM | #43 (permalink) |
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This.
If you do not drive your car long distances, letting it fully warm up (20 minutes per trip) then your oil eventually becomes heavily contaminated with water. This water comes from the intake, straight out of the air it is sucking in. This is the reason for the time limit in addition to a mileage recommendation. If you drive few miles, but always drive for say an hour at a time then you're fine to extend the time, but otherwise I would just change it on the time mark or the mileage mark. |
05-12-2012, 11:46 AM | #44 (permalink) | |
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05-12-2012, 12:50 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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I'm definitely lazy, but I'm also slightly OCD. The Z is pretty major investment, so I'll take the extra time and do it right.
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