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I have been repairing cars for many years - I'm a mechanic. I like my profession and I use a lot of tools every day, but the most useful of
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#1 (permalink) |
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 24
Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z SR M6
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I have been repairing cars for many years - I'm a mechanic. I like my profession and I use a lot of tools every day, but the most useful of them is the torque wrench. I bought it after reading the reviews here https://torquewrenchguide.com/reviews/ and after listening to the reviews of my colleagues, I realized that I could not do without this tool.
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#2 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,379
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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#3 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Near Frisco, TX
Posts: 42
Drives: 08coupe, 07sedan
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I’ve done a ton of these bushing replacements. The Z1 tool definitely works for the aluminum subframe z/g’s as the outer shell plate pulled the bushing with very little effort. Now talking about the z/g’s with the steel subframe that’s another story-the outer shell plate doesn’t go through the subframe with the same ease at all- I was using a 3/4in extendable ez-red 4 foot ratchet, with the car on a lift, even that was a huge PITA-and it still took forever.
Ultimately I found that using the small center bushing remover first to get that portion out of the way, cleaning the fluid if there is any left so it doesn’t get in your face, Then using an air hammer with a chisel bit to push the bushing out. It takes literally 30 seconds, if you want to make a couple cuts through the outer shell with a saws-all, collapse it in a little then chisel it out that way works as well. But seriously F that removal tool for the steel subframes, again with the aluminum it works very well. Just my .02
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‘08 coupe w/Stillen SC, Custom A2A, SD, ID1050x, e85, eagle rods, high temp coated pistons, P&P heads, JWT C2, manual swap, stage 2 clutch. EcuTek(Eugene) |
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#4 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,379
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684438 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() I can remove the bushing in about 20 minutes in the steel sub-frame. Putting a new one in takes me about 1 hour.
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#5 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Near Frisco, TX
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If your talking about installing the z1 bushing...put it in the freezer for a few hours, it will slip in with super easy with a couple taps of the mallet, when it’s hot it definitely takes some good beating to get it seated all the way.! You’ll love installing when the bushing is cold!
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‘08 coupe w/Stillen SC, Custom A2A, SD, ID1050x, e85, eagle rods, high temp coated pistons, P&P heads, JWT C2, manual swap, stage 2 clutch. EcuTek(Eugene) |
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#7 (permalink) | |
Track Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 781
Drives: 17' 370Z Nismo
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Wouldn't hurt to heat up the subframe a little as well. |
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