Nissan 370Z Forum - Free differential bushing removal tool.

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)

- Engine & Drivetrain (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/)

- - Free differential bushing removal tool. (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/125396-free-differential-bushing-removal-tool.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by -ZS-Carpenter (Post 3729486)

I trashed the large rod first use. The rod kit from Z1 is $48, seems steep when i just need 1 rod and 2 nuts. Anyone know if that 3/4" APR rod can be source elsewhere or of a suitable substitute? Possibly even a larger rod?

You can get threaded rods from McMaster-Carr

Acme thread is the name i was looking for. A 3' stick will make 4 replacements for $15+ shipping.

https://www.discountsteel.com/items/...ts=&qty=1#skus

Quote:

Originally Posted by -ZS-Carpenter (Post 3731210)

Acme thread is the name i was looking for. A 3' stick will make 4 replacements for $15+ shipping.

https://www.discountsteel.com/items/...ts=&qty=1#skus

It's $10.10 for a 36" section under Acme Lead Screws and Nuts (53K psi tensile strength).

So, I paid freight from CJ to me, then I paid freight again to ship it to Sr20dehauler on 3/6 while my 370 was in the body shop.

Now my car is out of the body shop, and the rear diff is ready for install now on 3/18.

No response from Sr20dehauler since 3/10 appears he has gone off the reservation?

He mentioned that his mechanic advised against using the tool...

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3739647)

That’s cause his mechanic is a tool....sorry had to :)

Lol!

Sr20dehauler just PMd me said he would send it back.

Glad he is back!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3729414)

The tools are here! but the car is still in the body shop. So, I decided to see if I could get the elephant ear bushings out of the diff that I plan to install when the car returns. I wailed on them with a hammer and socket with no success. Damn they are in there tight.

Decided to try and fashion something with the bushing removal tools from Cj.

First turn the diff upside down, mine was full of oil, so I plugged the vent.

1. I put the 1/2” acme threaded rod with nut and washer on the end, thru the size adapter and installed the adapter into the large housing (Pic 1).
2. Install the acme screw and housing through the steel sleeve in the bushing - from the bottom (Pic 1).
3. Install the big chrome 35 mm socket over the acme screw threads, as it protrudes out the top of the bushing steel sleeve (Pic 2).
4. Install the gold plate onto the top of the socket (Pic 2).
5. Install a washer and nut, on top of the gold plate (Pic 2).
6. Holding the bottom nut with a wrench, tighten the top nut.
7. When the assembly begins to become difficult to tighten, install another socket on top of the gold plate, and tap with hammer (Pic 3)
8. Tighten nuts and then tap in an alternating pattern until the bushing comes out (Pic 4)

Works like a champ! I bought the large chrome 35mm socket just for this job, so I will donate it to the kit.

I used a 3/4" drive socket that was almost the same diameter as the bushings, and a BFH to drive these bushings right out. Only took 5 minutes for both.

If you are looking for all thread. Go to Fastenal if you have one local. They normally carry a bunch of different sizes. I found 13mm thread diameter there.

If you are replacing a diff bushings that has not ruptured yet. Be careful. I replaced mine not long ago. I drilled into the bushings and got squirted with silicone fluid! :eek: The chit shot a good distance. About 3ft. Glad I was wearing glasses. :tup:

Sorry about the mishap. I went out of town for a week right after I received the tool so I didn't have time to ship it back. It is currently on it's way back to SG4247.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z_ealot (Post 3739655)

That’s cause his mechanic is a tool....sorry had to :)

He said that the tool doesn't work very well to remove the outer collar for the models with steel subframes. The shop specializes in Zs and he's performed this job dozens of times so I assume he knows what he's talking about. *shurg*

Did this yesterday with a 400mm 1/2” breaker bar. Must be a hectic interference fit. Lots of fun on your back. But then again most fairladys are...:tup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by beauz (Post 3743271)

Did this yesterday with a 400mm 1/2” breaker bar. Must be a hectic interference fit. Lots of fun on your back. But then again most fairladys are...:tup:

For one thing. The hole in the frame is not perfectly round. Where the welds come together is the problem area.

So, I used the tool from CJ and got it done! Wow that was tough!

Best to use a lift - and then you can use you body weight to pull down on the wrench to remove the bushing.

Took two of us big dudes, on the floor to pull the darn thing out. Takes a lot of torque.

I ordered a 3' stick of 1/2" Acme thread, and 4 new Acme nuts (Two 1/2" and two 3/4"). The all-thread is in pretty good shape, but nuts are trashed.

Once that stuff arrives, I will cut the all-thread down into 10" sticks, and the tool will be ready to go out to the next person. Should be late this week.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3743279)

For one thing. The hole in the frame is not perfectly round. Where the welds come together is the problem area.

The hole is definitely not round.

I ended up taking the puller plate part of the bushing tool to the machine shop and turning .015" off of the O.D. Just a light clean up.

The thing would get 1/2" or so into the sub frame and stop. It would jam every time no matter what I did for alignment.

After machining, it went through the frame, and pulled the bushing out like butter!

If no one else is in line, I sure could use this! Have the bushings ready in my garage.