Time for a new engine
 

Well, many of you may know that last year in the One Lap of America, I either blew a head gasket or warped a head. After consulting with a few people, it seems that just putting a new engine in is the best route rather that pulling the old and trying to fix it (Time and cost wise)and maybe finding additional problems..which I understand.

I originally was going to put a built motor in but I have been discouraged from doing so if I am going to remain NA, which I am. I'm just going with bolt on parts to try to get the Z closer to those damn Mustangs and Camaros. So with that thought in mind I have decided to buy a new Nissan engine.

...which leads to the question. Are there any dealers, shops, etc, that I can purchase an engine at a better price than my local dealer? I have someone to install it, but first I must purchase. Where can I get the best price?

TIA
Tracy Ramsey
Team Blenderblaster

1. Are you serious about competition, if yes, proceed, if not, execute step 3, fit engine and proceed with that as replacement engine
2. Find yourself an engine builder (I'd talk to Clark Steppler at Jim Wolf Technology)
3. Buy a low mileage engine from a wrecker and rebuild it - if this is too expensive for you, you answer to question 1 is incorrect so return to question 1 and take the no route
4. Choices for rebuild - aftermarket ECU or not, if yes, proceed to next question, otherwise rebuild standard engine with JWT series 2 exhaust cams
5. If aftermarket ECU, purchase 350Z HR engine and rebuild "HRGA" engine using JWT cams, pistons, rods, fasteners etc. If funds are available, go with Bryant racing steel crank (std stroke - the Bryant stroker needs more machining) otherwise life the OEM crank at 40 hours
6. I have a reference for Motec M150 to drive the OEM canbus and VQ37VHR engine (will drive standard gauge cluster).

PM me if you want more details

pm sent.

A new engine from a dealer will cost you more then a rebuilt one. You could start with a built short block from Z1 or someone else. Then add your top end to it with the Stage 2 cams. That's what I would do. This way, you get rid of a few known oil issues. Like the oil pump and the weak oil galley gaskets. And have a better crank too.

I agree with both above replies; Z1 has a 2017’ short block at a good price...just 1400 Miles on it; swapped in for a built bottom end.
Same specs as the first VQ37VHR’s...you could throw some upgraded rods in it if desired; as that appears to be the weakest link when boosted.
JW’s C2 cams,fresh heads,and many other upgraded parts available to extend life & performance....I’d definitely stay away from Stealership!