7AT stalls whenever I put in Drive or Reverse
 

Hi everyone, I can start my car just fine but if I put it in Drive or Reverse it turns off every time. If I apply throttle I can get it moving but it is very rough kind of like someone who is brand new to stick shift. I have asked around and researched and found possible issues:

Dirty MAF
just need to do the idle relearn procedure (having trouble with doing that)
torque converter
throttle bodies

I found a thread here
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ver-put-d.html

and apparently this guy fixed it by launching the car but not sure if I want to do that... does anyone have any advice?

If it was me, I'd pull the battery cable off the battery for 5-10 minutes and reset the PCM. When you reconnect the battery, let the car idle for a while, then with your foot on the brake, put it in reverse for a minute, then put it in drive for a minute, then take the car for a normal drive. Maybe that would fix a bad adaptive calibration?

thanks, I will try that first - is this just disconnecting the negative terminal or do I need to do anything else to reset?

Can I also do it this way

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ve-method.html

Many people including Nissan techs do not understand this....

The 7AT transmission pump supplies trans fluid under pressure, to the torque converter piston/clutch to force it into the "off" position. So, to apply the converter clutch, the convert clutch solenoid just turns off the pressure to the piston, and the clutch comes on.

If there is a malfunction of the converter clutch piston, piston seals or converter clutch control solenoid, the clutch may be "on" even at idle, causing the engine to stall when put into gear. It would drive like a newbe trying to drive a stick....

Doesn't happen often, but does happen as I have seen this condition before.

That's good information to know and completely opposite from any other transmission I've dealt with but was thinking exactly that his converter is locked up.

been a while; but back in the day,this was a common failure on some A/T tranny's...Phone Pat@levelten transmission's & he will give you some insight...heck; He's in Jersey!
(973)827-1000

Un-sure how often you visit the Forum; but i speak w/Pat from time to time & i sent him an e-mail...so he would have a head's up about what's going on,in the event you phone him.
I know they do Performance build's there,,,but i'm sure they do basic build's or whatever strength you want it built for.
Hope all goes well.

I reset the ECU but still having the problem so maybe it is the converter. I will give him a call unfortunately he is still 65 miles away even though in the same state. If the converter is locked up is there a way to unlock it or do I need a replacement? Maybe I should do what that guy did in the first thread I linked...

this is another reason why I wish I had just gotten a manual

The problem is more than likely a solenoid failure & not TC, Pat may be able to tell you how to disengage it to operate.
But in trans is in need for overhaul; definitely replace TC.


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I actually tried to schedule an appointment with Level 10 but I am too far away, and don't have time (work days) to take multiple days to go with the tow truck or worry about picking it up. He did say it was the converter probably though so I might have to go to the dealer. I just hope I don't need to replace the entire transmission.

I already drove it back home once it started doing this - it was fine when I left the house that day and started in the middle of the road. The dealer is only 5 miles away so I hope I can just drive it once more and not do any further damage. Luckily I have another car to drive in the meantime

Hope You the best;
But Level 10 is the real-deal; especially if you have modded your car any.
Some dealership's are limited to what they can do-as i have already planned to ship mine up there when it begin's to go,,,but i also have a couple older alternate rides.
Glad you were able to get in touch w/him.

If it turns out to be a torque converter malfunction, a converter replacement (only use OEM nissan parts (Jatco)), converter clutch solenoid and fluid replacement would be the only items I would entertain paying for. Generally, this type of malfunction does not require a replacement transmission. The only exception that comes to mind would be if the main line pump pressure on the transmission is below spec, or if the transmission had other driveablity function problems.

the car is stock except for an exhaust. I know Level 10 would be the go to for a built transmission, but I probably won't be modding (especially Forced Induction) any time soon. I eventually want to get a C7 (stick shift this time), and just want to fix this and not have it break in a year lol

update: car was running very lean. Source to be determined but I don't think it's the torque converter. good thing I didn't go replace it yet

Thats good! Maybe?

Hard to know if its an engine performance issue or converter concern.

Should have had a MIL on the dash if its that lean?

from one end of the spectrum to the other... now the dealer called me saying the entire transmission needs to be replaced (new one is 10k LOL). Tech said it was slipping on the highway (but that has never happened to me)

so I am not sure what to do... the car is probably worth 12-13k with a good transmission so definitely not paying 10k. I'm just going to drive it back for now and either try and get a used one or just sell as is. I am not the best mechanically and probably will only own cars with warranties now. I have had this car for 4.5 years almost and this is the first problem that I have had outside of a sensor. I was going to eventually get a Corvette anyway but wish I had known this was going to happen (hindsight 20/20, etc)

I just drove it back from the dealer with a few stops and it didn't die at all... there is a bit of idle drop though thats about it and I think that's normal? so confused right now they cleaned my MAF and throttle bodies

Sounds like its fixed!

Mine idle drops at a stop as well, and I only have 27K miles on it.

Keep on truckin!

What's weird is that they still said I needed a new transmission. I wonder if they just cleaned the MAF/throttle bodies and neglected to see if that fixed it. I will see if it stays fixed haha

So was it the fuel pump?

Had this JUST happen to me today.

Car drives/shifts fine once I'm moving, but dies when I come to a complete stop. I'm 90% sure it's the torque converter.

I bought the silver warranty plan when I bought the car new in 3-2014, sitting at 56k miles now. Never had any transmission related issues like this until today.

Anyone know if Nissan is going to cover this or am I looking at $$$.

Standard Powertrain warranty is 5/60...so should be warranted :tup:

Thank God, but no conversations with dealerships are "easy" when it's $$ going OUT for them.

Just tried the ECU reset after it sat cold for a few hours: Starts fine, no noise out of the ordinary.... going into reverse, seems normal for about 2 seconds and then BAM: stalls.

So this to me has to be TQ converter... will find out Tuesday with stealership appointment.

Does sound like the TC Solenoid is trying to go in lockup mode,,,hopefully dealership will be able to hook you up & flush the tranny fluid as well :tup:

JC do you know if that solenoid is in the transmission housing or not?

Appreciate like REALLY appreciate everyones words of encouragement!!!

Driving this eve in stop/go rush hour was ____ hell. Poor car. Got it to the dealership, should findout tomorrow what the status is.


56k miles, 12 days before I hit 5 years (I also paid for that "silver" plan when I bought new) so fingers crossed i don't get the whole: "Well...it's gonna be a MILLION $$$$"

At least you dont have to worry about having to replace the convertable top!.. :eekdance:

Interesting:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1552354910

Yeah... I've seen it done... that's a whole different level of patience I know I don't posses!!!

They may put you a brand new trans in for free :tup:
Lot more possibilities than there used to be..

I was talking more about what nissan wants to charge you if the top ever fails..lol Just a little less than what a used 370Z in decent shape would cost! :ugh2:

Insanity!

Funny they list the transmission for $8k, yet planty on ebay for $1k

Yep; new ones are expensive- but dealerships don’t always have techs to troubleshoot & repair,,,they’ll just warranty out a new one :tiphat:
Hope all goes well.

Well received the word that they are working on their whole internal claims process to put a new transmission in there. Evidently that's it's own bureaucratic nightmare, but so far things sound hopeful.

Sounds good; afterwards I’d get it on a drain & fill regimen,,,as the fluid does get pretty dirty in those & maybe add a trans cooler :ugh2:

I never had any slippage issues with mine & even dragraced it some/drove really hard at times...my first fluid flush was at 50k & it looked like dark coffee :ugh2:
Didn’t smell burnt; but I wanted that fluid clean.
Did a drain/Fill,,,drive 5 miles & repeated 2 more times to flush.
A drain/fill takes about 4qts,,,but used 12 on the flush. Afterwards I only did a drain an fill every 10k (probably a bit much), but it was like a transmission tuneup every time...really firmed up my manual shift points.
Z got crashed @93k:icon14: but trans was perfect :tup:

Yeah I think the issue is that even Nissan has such high turnover that it's really a roll of the dice to get someone that knows what they are doing.

They refused to touch it until after asking several times and hitting around 40k miles to then change the fluid.

It now makes me wonder/question: Was it perfectly fine and they somehow either over or underfilled it when it was changed at 40k?

I'll never know the truth and it could of course be purely coincidental, but I do wish Nissan would make it crystal clear and simpler from a design aspect to change out the fluid just like any other fluid in the car.

I suspect they went to a "sealed" design to attempt to avoid dealership and/or user errors in the process (since the lawsuits on the 5AT and CVT's), and thus created a timebomb that will self destruct but is then conveniently outside of the 5 year/ 60k warranty period, or even if you paid extra for the gold/silver plan: 7 years / 84k miles.

The whole thing is puzzling as it seems like Nissan sends three messages:

1) It's fine, "sealed" for 100k, nothing to see here *cough* oh it failed, OH WELL, you're outside of warranty now sucker!

2) Severe Duty = 30k intervals, but we're not going to make that clear nor offer consistent messaging to dealership service department that is the bottom line (and furthermore: who knows how well and to what extent they are trained since I doubt they touch many 7AT's compared to CVT's as it was mentioned when I dropped off: "wow, yeah we don't get these with transmission issues at all..."

3) Just sell people a new Nissan if the old one falls outside of warranty and presents a large sunk cost; I.E. I'm sure this approach didn't work out well since Nissan now is offering 10 years / 120k mile warranty on the CVT's

So yeah if I had to do it over again, I "woulda" purchased the 6 speed setup and bit the bullet on the whole CSC thing....

Now the question is: Should I even keep the car past the 7 year mark assuming all goes well with this issue?

I'd say yes - if reliability is your main concern. The 370Z is a pretty reliable vehicle. There are a few problems (eg, CSC) but every car has it's quirks.

For best reliablity, do fluid changes and other maintenance often. And don't let a dealership touch your car unless absolutely necessary (ie, warranty work) - find a good, independent shop/mechanic. Take care of it and it will take care of you.

I had a lot of "bad luck" with my 7AT before i switched to the 6MT. The problem you initially described where the car would not stay in D or R and stall out at idle was exactly what happened during my first warranty issue. Dealer said torque converter seized and ended up replacing the whole trans. I had the extended Silver warranty and it was done at no cost to me.

That's EXACTLY what's occurred here.

So I learned something new:

Evidently the ambiguity and lack of clear communication from Nissan and all of the other major manufacturers around AT fluid change intervals all stems from attempting to advertise a lower cost of ownership of the vehicle.

Basically what's happening is that they are gaming the numbers by trying to label the transmissions as "maint free" "Sealed" and other terms that lead the majority of the public to think that the fluid is fine for 100k miles.

Now I'm unsure of how many people shop for cars and actually look at cost of ownership over say 5-10 years vs. just the price of the car + say gas mileage, but this to me sounds believable and explains why dealerships/manufacturers mutually benefit although at the destruction of reputation and risk of lawsuits if you have enough people that have self destructing transmissions.

............

As far as mine goes: They've gotten the claim finalized and approved, so it's just a matter of waiting 2-3 weeks for it to arrive and get installed. Luckily my dealership is letting me keep the loaner car at no cost.

Overall I think it's been handled well, but I do believe that the above explanation vindicates my suspicion around why I couldn't get a straight answer whenever I'd inquire about AT fluid changes in the past.

and yes, I agree: Next car will just be a reg manual as the AT or even dual clutch setups seem like a major liability post 5-8 years unless of course one is willing to have them built/modified/etc.

While I do love the Z, it seems like it would be a smart move if Nissan sourced something more robust like the ZF 8 speed perhaps?