7AT stalls whenever I put in Drive or Reverse

kittens

Hi everyone, I can start my car just fine but if I put it in Drive or Reverse it turns off every time. If I apply throttle I can get it moving but it is very rough kind of like someone who is brand new to stick shift. I have asked around and researched and found possible issues:

Dirty MAF
just need to do the idle relearn procedure (having trouble with doing that)
torque converter
throttle bodies

I found a thread here
SOS/HELP : Engine died whenever put in D

and apparently this guy fixed it by launching the car but not sure if I want to do that... does anyone have any advice?

IAmTheStig

If it was me, I'd pull the battery cable off the battery for 5-10 minutes and reset the PCM. When you reconnect the battery, let the car idle for a while, then with your foot on the brake, put it in reverse for a minute, then put it in drive for a minute, then take the car for a normal drive. Maybe that would fix a bad adaptive calibration?

kittens

thanks, I will try that first - is this just disconnecting the negative terminal or do I need to do anything else to reset?

Can I also do it this way

RESET ECU alternative method

SG4247

Many people including Nissan techs do not understand this....

The 7AT transmission pump supplies trans fluid under pressure, to the torque converter piston/clutch to force it into the "off" position. So, to apply the converter clutch, the convert clutch solenoid just turns off the pressure to the piston, and the clutch comes on.

If there is a malfunction of the converter clutch piston, piston seals or converter clutch control solenoid, the clutch may be "on" even at idle, causing the engine to stall when put into gear. It would drive like a newbe trying to drive a stick....

Doesn't happen often, but does happen as I have seen this condition before.

Jhill

That's good information to know and completely opposite from any other transmission I've dealt with but was thinking exactly that his converter is locked up.

jchammond

been a while; but back in the day,this was a common failure on some A/T tranny's...Phone Pat@levelten transmission's & he will give you some insight...heck; He's in Jersey!
(973)827-1000

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jchammond

Un-sure how often you visit the Forum; but i speak w/Pat from time to time & i sent him an e-mail...so he would have a head's up about what's going on,in the event you phone him.
I know they do Performance build's there,,,but i'm sure they do basic build's or whatever strength you want it built for.
Hope all goes well.

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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kittens

I reset the ECU but still having the problem so maybe it is the converter. I will give him a call unfortunately he is still 65 miles away even though in the same state. If the converter is locked up is there a way to unlock it or do I need a replacement? Maybe I should do what that guy did in the first thread I linked...

this is another reason why I wish I had just gotten a manual

jchammond

The problem is more than likely a solenoid failure & not TC, Pat may be able to tell you how to disengage it to operate.
But in trans is in need for overhaul; definitely replace TC.


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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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kittens

I actually tried to schedule an appointment with Level 10 but I am too far away, and don't have time (work days) to take multiple days to go with the tow truck or worry about picking it up. He did say it was the converter probably though so I might have to go to the dealer. I just hope I don't need to replace the entire transmission.

I already drove it back home once it started doing this - it was fine when I left the house that day and started in the middle of the road. The dealer is only 5 miles away so I hope I can just drive it once more and not do any further damage. Luckily I have another car to drive in the meantime

jchammond

Hope You the best;
But Level 10 is the real-deal; especially if you have modded your car any.
Some dealership's are limited to what they can do-as i have already planned to ship mine up there when it begin's to go,,,but i also have a couple older alternate rides.
Glad you were able to get in touch w/him.

__________________
MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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SG4247

If it turns out to be a torque converter malfunction, a converter replacement (only use OEM nissan parts (Jatco)), converter clutch solenoid and fluid replacement would be the only items I would entertain paying for. Generally, this type of malfunction does not require a replacement transmission. The only exception that comes to mind would be if the main line pump pressure on the transmission is below spec, or if the transmission had other driveablity function problems.

kittens

the car is stock except for an exhaust. I know Level 10 would be the go to for a built transmission, but I probably won't be modding (especially Forced Induction) any time soon. I eventually want to get a C7 (stick shift this time), and just want to fix this and not have it break in a year lol

kittens

update: car was running very lean. Source to be determined but I don't think it's the torque converter. good thing I didn't go replace it yet

SG4247

Thats good! Maybe?

Hard to know if its an engine performance issue or converter concern.

Should have had a MIL on the dash if its that lean?