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If corrosion is not the problem, check for flow. FSM may have a procedure. I'd also double-check fan speed. I doubt that they are the problem but one may not be getting up to speed. |
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Anyhow lets try to help OP to fix his car. Since the car is only overheating on idle with ac on I cant really think of anything except insufficient air flow through the radiator. If there was an air pocket it would still overheat with AC off, the heat in the cabin would fall off from hot to warm during idle. Strange.. |
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Yeah, it sounds like a fan issue while the OP is at an idle, even though the OP has said the fans are working. |
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The two basic problems that I've run into with air/liquid heat exchangers both have to do with flow - either the air or the liquid is moving too slow (too fast is also a possibility, but not very common and certainly not your problem).
You seem to have good air flow (although your testing methods are not very reliable). Low flow is usually caused by a bad pump or blockage (stuck 'stat, something in a passage, heat exchanger pluggage, etc). You've checked all the easy stuff. Go ahead and pull the pump for inspection. Use your borescope on the block while you have things apart. |
Before you drive yourself crazy and start taking the car apart, I suggest you get a proper coolant funnel kit (link below). What Im about to suggest is not possible without one because coolant would spill everywhere. So fill the coolant to 1/3 full of the funnel, start the car and turn on the heater all the way to max temp and max fan speed. Also make sure to adjust vents to face mode only and make sure AC is off! Run the car and give it several good revs to like 4-5k and hold for 5-10sec. Back off and repeat. This way you build extra pressure to push coolant around and possibly eliminate any air pockets that still might've been trapped in the system. Make sure you keep watching funnel through your windshield to make sure coolant is not excessively raising. If it does, back off for little and try again. Keep doing until fan kicks on and off couple of times. From experience some cars will bleed just fine from idling, others need that extra push especially when cooling system was completely opened. Hope it helps
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-S...ice+kit+funnel |
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One thought is there are two designs of the z cooling system. One uses a conventional expansion tank system and the later (I think 2012) use the tank as part of the pressurized system. If you have the later there is usually a upper return hose (I'm not at my car or looking at it currently so I'll have to verify this later and hopefully not look stupid) the return hose should have a pretty steady stream of coolant back to the reservoir. This was always a good indicator for when the plastic impeller would break on 1.8t vw engines. Oh and ps just kidding about throwing the funnel away, keep it as the taper hole is much easier to secure the block checker in than some radiator openings, but that's really all I used it for after having a vacuum fill. Also on subject of block checkers there are different designs and the ones with two chambers are much more sensitive to very small gasket leaks (second chamber will change color) |
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I have the old system with the expansion tank. Also where can i get one of these two chamber block checkers that you mentioned? Would i be able to rent one from somewhere? |
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