Clutch install gone Bad
 

Removed my triple disk clutch to go to Z1 JWT https://www.z1motorsports.com/clutch...hr-p-3388.html

Put the trans back in and after bleeding the clutch it will not dis-engage. I can look in the hole were the lines go through the the CSC I have .4 inch movement then the clutch is pushed.

I bough a bore inspection tool so I can look inside and see what is up.

Any ideas? I will put the car back to the stock unit tomorrow.

Z1 seems to think I is still a bleed problem.

I am using the duel mass flywheel with the JWT unit, could that be the problem?

Trans spins free in neutral and will not turn when placed in gear with the clutch depress.

I did not change the pilot bushing,

I am using the Z Speed CSC ZSpeed Performance Replacment HD Clutch CSC Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder Kit


Again, any help, Please

Do you have your clutch plate installed right. If you put it in backwards. The pressure plate will not release.

It is in correct, I need 7.5mm of travel on the CSC and I am only getting 7mm. I just put in a new master and slave. Still will not work. I have bleed the CMC at the line connection and below at at the slave. I have full travel on the master.

Z speed and Z1 were sure it would work with new hydro parts. NOT

If the JWT requires more force to operate than the 3-disk, you may have exceeded what the system will handle and are bypassing fluid at the master.

Or the JWT requires more travel.

Just guesses. Hope it's an easy fix.

If the pilot bushing is worn it would cause more clutch engagement issues when the engine is running. If the bushing got damaged during removal of the trans or when it was installed it will cause your problem. If the trans was removed without any weight put on that bushing (i.e. it didn't hang at all due to improper removal equipment, or the trans was not forced at all into position during install) then the bushing should be okay. The pilot bushing must always be replaced because its only protection is a small amount of grease that can never be replaced during its life (plus it's really cheap).
Next, if the wrong grease was used or too much, that could cause the trans output shaft to spin when the turning flywheel with clutch depressed. You can check this by turning flywheel with clutch depressed and holding output shaft of trans. I would change out bushing, use correct grease and correct amount and ensure proper install procedure of trans so as to not cause damage of bushing during install. If you can stop it then it could be bushing or other clutch parts not mating properly or working together. If you cannot hold the output shaft from spinning I would suspect incorrect amount of travel for the csc or a worn csc shaft (tube that csc slides on) which should be replaced when doing clutch. Hope that helps a bit.

OK, the clutch will not release, I test my install by having someone (my Son) depress the clutch after we bleed it before we start the car. It will not release clean. I can put a pry bar at the aft U-joint and make it spin with high force (200-250 pound feet) to make it slip.

I will not slip at all without the clutch depress.

I did not change the pilot bearing, It looks good, but I can.

Last week, with the clutch assy on a press, it releases fine with 7.5mm of press movement, the CSC-CMC only give me 7mm. not enough for a clean release.

Could the duel mass flywheel be damaged?

I am about to spring for the Z1 CSC system.

CMC and CSC were just changed yesterday, CSC is the Z-speed part.

Thanks to all. Keep thinking, I need the help!

Good news is I can remove and install faster than changing a tire!!!

Do you happen to have the rjm clutch pedal? If you do, You may have forgot to set it back to stock setting before the bleed. I did this and wasn't getting full travel in the clutch. Set the pedal back to stock and bled again, got the tiniest little bubble out, then it worked for me.

Just a thought

RJM is set to full travel.

I am still running the duel mass flywheel, anyone having problems with that and the z-speed CSC?

Z1 might be right. From my experience ZSPEED CSC is a bitch to bleed. I'd deff bleed it couple more times before removing anything again. Also did you bench bleed new master cylinder before installing it?

Look under the boot and see if there's an adjustment for the throw. There might be a threaded rod with a jam nut hiding under there.

Looks like there may be some spacers that go under the plate that holds the arm. Did you put those in?

He has our HD CSC, not the CMAK, The HD CSC has plenty of movement, so long as the RJM pedal adjustment and master adjustment is correct, to release the clutch unless something is wrong with the JWT clutch itself, We have been conversing on the phone with him to figure out what the issue actually is.

It is actually very very simple to bleed, The only reason it would be hard to bleed is if the master cylinder is weak or adjusted improperly.

Looks like Joe is on top of things.:tup:

yeah I've always heard it recommended when you change the CSC you should change the MC simultaneously.

OK today I received a Z1 clutch flywheel and pressure plate, took the day ff work to install it and it still will not release. So at the direction of experts I started the car and shifted in gear and applied the brakes. Motor ran slower but did slip. tried again and did not work and we had a smell. Checked and now when you depress the clutch it sprays fluid. Something is not tight. So I start to pull the trans again and it's stuck. All the bolts are out. Now the clutch will not release and the trans is stuck to the motor. Clutch fluid was black when I drained the slave cylinder. Anyone have a way to pull the trans? I am thinking a motorcycle tie down strap from the trans to the rear of the frame...

If I can't get it apart it will have to go to my local shop. HELP Please!

If the input shaft has seized to the pilot bushing, perhaps putting the trans in gear and turning the driveshaft back and forth could work it free. Make sure the crankshaft isnt moving with it (which is how you would know if this was the problem).

Never heard of an input shaft seizing to a clutch hub. Maybe possible, not sure how within any realistic temps it would achieve.

A totally wrong mix of parts could possibly allow the CSC to push past the pressure plate spring and be stuck on the wrong side of it. This seems very unlikely unless something was way wrong to begin with, like wrong application parts. This would be a clearly visible condition by looking in through the little window.

Otherwise, sticky dowel pin or missed bolt.

Just to add...at this point I would have to agree with the others. Damaged or warped pressure plate. Damaged or warped flywheel. Different parts that don't want to work together. The "experts" gave you some pretty shaky advise which I feel has caused the failure of parts and possible transmission damage.
Hydraulic body straightening equipment and various jigs may be required. Prying between engine and transmission will only likely fracture the bell housing unless it's only minimal pressure.
I'm not sure of your experience level but you may need to bring the car into a transmission shop after all. I truly feel for you.

It is in and it works, the reason it did not before was the RJM peddle (with the Zspeed CSC) moved the pressure plate to far and jammed the back of the HD clutch disk springs. I changed to the Zspeed CSC replacement kit, all is good!

http://zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed-...e-ZSP-CMAK.htm

I currently have the Z1 mid weight Flywheel and the JWC disk and pressure plate. 30-40% heaver than stock, no slip, easy to modulate with a hint of shudder at low power.

On the bright side I can drop a trans and change a clutch in 3-4 hours start to finish.

So the ZSPEED HD CSC and RJM pedal aren't compatible? I haven't seen anything before on this.

I have both of them without issue.

It's how you have the RJM adjusted.

The OP said it was set to "full stroke" for bleeding. I assume this means the stock-like setting as RJM states is necessary for bleeding a new clutch so I don't quite understand yet.

Too much stroke and it over-traveled the CSC. Jamming the pressure plate fingers into the clutch disc.

Correct I destroyed two of them. It works fine with the stock clutch, but if your new disk is higher at the damper springs, you can have over travel.

Only way it can hit the hub springs are 2 things, Either the pedal was set way too high allowing the slave to travel farther than stock or the clutch kit itself is not set-up correctly or mixed/matched components.

I HAVE seen this before with a new JWT kit, If the clutch pedal is set too high it can over travel and the diaphragm spring will hit the clutch hub, turned out to be a problem with the clutch itself. After the clutch broke in a little it stopped doing it. Basically once the clutch seats in a little the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate will rise as intended and will give more clearance between the clutch hub and pressure plate spring. The other customer had told me if he let up on the clutch a little bit it would release and if he held it to the floor it would not release all the way and there was a noise, This told me what the issue was immediately.

The ZSpeed HD CSC slave will not travel any further than the stock slave, They are identical in bore/volume.

I have never seen the clutch actually get damaged from this though, It will just rub a spot on the hub, make a little rubbing noise and not release if you hold it all the way down to the floor and keep it hitting the hub effectively making the clutch try to engage as you are pushing it onto the flywheel.

Glad you got it fixed regardless!

Impressive on the clutch change time!

I knew something was fishy here. As Joe said their CSC has same travel as stock and RJM pedal set to 0 is same as stock so either the clutch kit was bad/setup wrong or the pedal really wasn't set to 0.

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Last update, I talked to Joe at Speed, and I have the old CSC with the .5 inch adapter plate. The new ones have .25".

The extra .25 inch caused all the problems.

If that was the case it was a Early HD slave for the OS Giken twin/triple disk.
That would cause issues for sure if used with a single disk clutch kit!