Post Break-In Dyno Results Thread
 

I'm looking for some folks to post their non-modded dyno-pull results. Odometer reading must be over 1200 miles.

I'm in the middle of break-in (570 miles on the odo). I'm not bringing rpm's over 4000 (oops, I slipped about 4 times and took it to about 5000, but only for a split second).

I'm using Nissan Ester Oil. When you post, please note your mileage when it was dyno'd. Please also note the oil that you are using, and if you switched from the factory fill, please also note the odo reading when you switched over. I will enter all data into a spreadsheet as it comes in, and publish it after my dyno pull.

Thanks! :tiphat:

See my sig.

7k miles, redline. 4k switch.

This will be pointless because of the different dynos :)

are you trying to figure out whether you should change your oil to get the most power out of the car? Its not going to make any difference if thats the case. If you are trying to create a bit of a database to compare... it kinda wont work because of different dyno types used. All these threads (some of mine included) have that major flaw; that dynos differ so much from each other and even from themselves at a later date that the results are never conclusive.

My car made 256whp and 204wtq right after break in with Nissan Ester oil. I am still running Nissan Ester oil @ 8,000 Miles.

Ya I hear you. I should be more clear, I'm hoping for even more data from some folks. Such as a difference in numbers after an oil switch on the same dyno. Also, would love to know if folks did a "proper" break in vs the "drive it like you stole it method".

Drove it like I stole it and thats how I do all my cars. I honestly cant see buying any car and not being able to over 4k rpm for a 1200 mile break in. Just doesnt make since and if it was necessary then Im sure Nissan would have a way of checking this and have yet another way of voiding warrenties. Plus Ive heard that you need to do some higher rpms so everything seals good. Ive never had a problem due to driving the car normal from day one, I just made sure I didnt red line. And besides I have never seen anything on the definate side that says dont do it and had proof to back it up.

I don't have a Z yet, but why would you baby it during the break-in period? The point is to get all of the seals to settle and work off any extra casting materials so that all of the moving parts work themselves smooth (to a point). I remember reading about engine break-in and there was no instruction about babying it. The article just gave a sequence of RPMs and gears to run and how many miles to do it in. I will search for the data that I am talking about and post it up in a few miinutes.

And just like that <snaps fingers>. This turns into a break-in battle thread.

On topic, I would also like to see a "17 miles on ODO" dyno vs a "17,000 miles on ODO" dyno.

Never that. But there are reasons that similar cars behave in different ways. The car learns how you drive, so you just have to keep that in mind during a data collection event of this sort.

Oh I wasn't aiming that at you. Many, many threads on this board have turned into the battle of how to break in a vehicle properly, and usually the same points are reiterated, yelling begins, and the thread is locked. Rinse and repeat.

My aim was not to battle about who is doing what or anything, I am just curious of who is being "gentle" and whay their dyno results will be as opposed to the "rougher" break-in dyno result. That may give some good info, considering it is captured on the same dyno on the same day.

If you baby the car from new you wont be getting the most out of the engine.
You are not going to break anything by driving it hard. If something is going to break its going to break regardless of soft or hard.

If break in was really that critical I think it would be in big red letters and stuck on your steering wheel for example, and not hidden away in the manual. I dont remember any dealers pointing out break in procedure.

As long as the engine is warmed up and you dont thrash it too much creating too much heat which will result in glazing.

The reason manufactures suggest a easy break in, is for many reasons I think, like so you get used to the car and don't have a accident and advising easy break in is easier than suggesting a hard break in attached with many caustions that may get ignored like excessive heat build up from excessive hard runs, engine not at optimal temp before running hard.

My engine has 2,500km and is well run in and has losened up. I gave mine WOT upto 4,500rpm and gradually worked my way up to redline as more keys were on.

Just warm it up and drive it like its meant to be

Will be doing a baseline next week, will be around 1000 - 1200 miles so close enough,but will take note of exact milage.
I did an oil change at 600 miles to conventional 5W-30, this oil will ramain in vehice for the baseline.
Broke this one in as all my other vehicles, common sense and variable stress.
Will post up my chart when I get it.

why conventional?

I do two or three 'short' changes with conventional 5W 30 (API cert ect) I use it purely as a bed in oil, usually around the time of first modifications or shortly afterward I will change to FS, I have some ENEOS 0W50 ready for that time.
No reason other then its what I have always done so purely personal preference.
My previous vehicles have been wrenched and tuned by myself and made good reliable power at both track and DD dutys, I am a creature of habit, plus I can think of no better unwind then working on my car. ;-)

Cheers

Without enterring into a engine break-in battle, I think driving a car hard while the engine is cold does the more damage compared to redline, etc.

Warm it up, let the oil do it's work, then fang it.