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Ive built several N/A V8 engines that produce over 1000 hp. If all your goodies noted were my stuff, i would install the heads and cams as is, with ARP
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#1 (permalink) |
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Ive built several N/A V8 engines that produce over 1000 hp.
If all your goodies noted were my stuff, i would install the heads and cams as is, with ARP studs. I would consider Cometic head gaskets too if they are an option. I would try to determine if piston to valve clearance is a concern while Im at it. Install your headers, intake and stuff, and then go right to the dyno with the fuel you intend to run. I would then tune the fuel system - pumps and injectors to support what the engines needs to make good power. A couple of easy dyno pulls will tell you if your current fuel system will support. Just because the valvetrain will go 9,900 RPM doesnt mean the motor will make power up there. So, I tune my engines to produce the highest flattest torque curve possible. Based on that curve, I then decide what RPM range I will operate the engine at. Tires, gears etc are then based on that. Torque moves the mass of your vehicle, HP is just a numerical result. If you dont dyno tune it, then there is just alot of guessing to do, and usually time and money wasted. |
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I would sure like to know more about the work done on the heads. Porting? Valve sizes? flow numbers? Who did the work..etc.
Im a NA guy myself, so very Im very interested in this thread! There may be some good power to be had - in just the head work. |
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I most likely won't bump displacement considering the fact it's getting boosted down the road. I understand what you're saying in terms of spinning the engine. My goal isn't to just spin it to the moon arbitrarily. I don't remember the formula, but you can determine your torque multiplication factor from one gear to the next to see at what rpm it's best to shift. I'm certain that whatever rpm that is will be higher than before. Martin is a great tuner in my back yard, so he will most likely be handling the tuning aspect. I just dont like running in blind and run around ignorant during the process ![]() Headers and retune are next as I plan how best to take the follow on steps. All the intake, exhaust, ported manifolds and TB's are already installed, just need retuned after Elmo and I get them on.
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I would like to know as well. Wonder what kind of power he will put down with built heads and oem bottom end. My guess should put him around 360-380. If he puts that down, i should easily hit 400 with my NA build. Finger crossed for Firehawk
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Alright, I know I'm missing something; things I still need to buy, minus small things...
Arp L19 head studs New head gaskets (OEM?) Call Phunk for fueling (E85 compatible rated at 600-700whp [future F.I. req]) Spend $$$ for install (I can hear my wallet crying) ... it just hit me, but I'm most likely going to need a new flywheel unless I want to see it self destruct. Might as well do the clutch at that point. I didn't plan on tinkering with the bottom end unless absolutely necessary... Just concerned about the main bearings. It's a street car, so it's life will mostly be spent in traffic with some spirited driving. She will see the occasional drag strip and track day. I have everything else covered. ATI damper, oil pump gears, Z1 headers, ported TB's and manifolds, normal bolt ons, tuning... The perfectionist in me wants to port the heads, but my wallet tells me it's foolish, considering they're all put together and won't be worth much more than a few hp lol. And that leads to a slippery slope of financial pain. Because then I'm going to want the EPS TB's, port them, upgrade the intakes to 2.75"-3", and more dumb, expensive stuff that's just a tiny bit better than what I have. I'll update my journal when I get back stateside next month and have actual pictures to post.
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