On my way home today, all of a sudden my car starting losing power around 4000 rpm. Almost like it’s in neutral but not quite since the shifter is in
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01-26-2017, 03:14 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Clutch Disengaging at high RPM?
On my way home today, all of a sudden my car starting losing power around 4000 rpm. Almost like it’s in neutral but not quite since the shifter is in gear and the pedal comes all the way back up.
If I stay below that, it’s fine. I checked the clutch fluid and it’s full and in good condition. Also checked the other fluids while I was at it and those are fine. Can someone help me figure this out? Dragging clutch maybe? Could it be the linkage? The clutch worked just fine until today. Last edited by Ben370; 01-26-2017 at 03:48 AM. |
01-26-2017, 04:17 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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86k miles. Does clutch slip normally happen so abruptly? I'd figure it'd be a gradual thing. This is my first manual btw...
It shifts fine but once I rev up to 4k it bucks and doesn't have throttle response...but back to normal once the revs drop. Last edited by Ben370; 01-26-2017 at 04:27 AM. |
01-26-2017, 05:55 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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Yep. Time for a new clutch.
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01-26-2017, 10:11 AM | #5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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01-26-2017, 10:15 AM | #6 (permalink) | ||
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Might as well upgrade the clutch too, if only because I'd imagine a Z1 street clutch is probably far cheaper than OEM.
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01-26-2017, 10:29 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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Hopefully, OP can find a shop that lets him provide the parts.
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01-27-2017, 02:49 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Sounds good! I am running the exact same setup with the addition of a Z1 lightweight flywheel.
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02-09-2017, 12:24 PM | #11 (permalink) | |
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My vote is back to the mechanic. The opening for the fuel pump is behind the passenger seat, the FSM has the location. I've heard of some folks having the fuel pump head break off and drop the pump to the bottom of the tank. Phunk has the fix for that. GL
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02-09-2017, 12:33 PM | #12 (permalink) | |
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Also, seems unlikely that it's the fuel pump if the car is running. I think the fuel pump is running at a constant cycle, more or less throttle has nothing to do with the fuel pump (someone fact check me, pretty sure that's how it work). There should be a separate mechanism that adjusts fuel input into the engine. OPs issue still sounds like a clutch issue to me. The mechanic should warranty his work considering he did not solve the original issue. Hopefully you told him about the issue and didn't just pop by asking him to change your clutch without context. A good mechanic would have taken it for a test drive to ensure that the issue is fixed before returning your car.
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02-09-2017, 12:56 PM | #13 (permalink) | |
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Which is why I asked if 'every thing' got done. I've never had a clutch problem reappear, if the complete job was done. When I was talking with Kevin @FastIntentions and we were discussing the clutch upgrade, I was all for surfacing the flywheel & calling it good. He told me that on our cars, it is a better idea to replace rather than resurface. The cost to replace is nominal in the grand scheme of maneuver.
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02-09-2017, 01:01 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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I did the pressure plate but not the bushing or flywheel because they looked fine. I did it myself. It drove well at first but the next day on a cold start, the issue reappeared. I drove it today and it's fine again. Seems to only happen on cold start.
Last edited by Ben370; 02-09-2017 at 03:39 PM. |
02-09-2017, 03:52 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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I think the fuel pump stays at a constant pressure like someone posted before. If not it should only have two settings (high/low). I don't think it's a fuel pump related problem though. If your car is not making a connection to the driveshaft it has to be the clutch or some other component related to driveshaft function. Flywheels have surface areas that can get worn as well.
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