Originally Posted by Rusty I've changed bearings before without pulling the motor. You might be able to do the same thing. Depends on how willing you are. In the Z
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10-03-2017, 10:54 PM | #406 (permalink) | |
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I suppose you could also drop the crossmember to get the upper pan off but that is a nightmare. I did that with my DE once to change the rear seal housing and it was torture being under there with the engine dripping oil on me the entire time. |
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10-03-2017, 11:04 PM | #407 (permalink) | |
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10-04-2017, 03:18 PM | #408 (permalink) |
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Hmm. I don't want to throw any shade around, but you had a coolant leak, and then spun a bearing. Any possibility the tune issue? Sounds like you pressurized the cooling system on the dyno ?
If you ran too much timing, or too lean, it's definitely going to pop the head gasket, pressurize the system, and leak externally. Now normally I've seen when this happens coolant comes spewing our the reservoir, but I guess it's possible to leak out of some other seal BEFORE the radiator. And of course, you now have a spun bearing. I just find it hard to believe that a lot of other guys are boosted on stock internals, making a bit more power than you, and so far so good on their stock motors. |
10-04-2017, 03:21 PM | #409 (permalink) | |
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You must of missed the post where I mentioned that the car was idled with no oil pressure up to operating temp while I checked for leaks. Totally my fault that I didn't see the low oil pressure symbol on the dash. The tuner isn't the best either but I'm almost certain it's just the oil issue and nothing else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10-04-2017, 03:42 PM | #411 (permalink) |
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Gotcha, I did totally miss that. Like I said, I didn't want to say it to spread any type of animosity, but just another line of thinking on the possibility of what could have happen.
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10-04-2017, 09:56 PM | #412 (permalink) |
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Thanks phunk for the help, but i don't really wanna mess with trying to change bearings only for it to possibly fail on me again in the future. I do have access to a lift now thankfully (at my new job) and can probably swap a used engine in over a weekend.
Now the funny thing I just discovered as I was searching for a used engine on eBay... All of them list compression as 280-290 on all cylinders. I did a compression test on my engine while it was warm just before the dyno and got 170-180 consistently across all 6 cylinders which I thought was normal since it was consistent. I guess that's why the car only made 460~ whp on 93 octane. |
10-04-2017, 10:16 PM | #414 (permalink) |
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175 psi is typical for many 11:1 engines I have tested, that are in good running order.
110-120 psi would be concerning. Last edited by SG4247; 10-04-2017 at 10:19 PM. |
10-04-2017, 10:39 PM | #416 (permalink) |
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So yeah, it looks like my engine was way low on compress based on the FSM.
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10-05-2017, 01:33 PM | #417 (permalink) | |
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Hope you are able to source a used motor. I've got my fingers crossed for you!
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10-05-2017, 02:34 PM | #418 (permalink) | |
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Thank you i was just looking at options since my engine still runs perfectly fine. I thought about trading it in (putting it back to stock first) and getting a '14 nismo but i'd be losing a lot more than i would by just fixing it. If my savings looks good by december then it's time for a used engine since they are under 2k for a very low mileage motor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10-05-2017, 03:46 PM | #419 (permalink) | |
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Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
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10-05-2017, 10:48 PM | #420 (permalink) | |
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More likely due to quantity. There are a ton more G’s out there. |
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