Finally installed it in. Looks like I have to do the steering modification similar to GTM's. Not horrible but just an extra step.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...699b981cd2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5ede7a38da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...65dc210b01.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4b86de289e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice to see that it is going to work out after so much effort!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm crossing my hands that there's no leaks anywhere and that everything works as planned :/ had too many delays already.

I was actually trying to start it tonight to check for leaks etc but it looks like my starter cable is shorting against the turbo so I'll have to unscrew it and bend it some more.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc4ac954a6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ccd375346c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work dude!!!!! :tup:

Cresent wrenches?!? Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

As much as I personally hate them, sometimes you have to if the normal wrench would be to long. I hate hacking up my tools unless I really, really, have to.

GT-R turbos on the VQ37
 

I was using these wrenches for the AN fittings. I keep losing the odd size wrenches so I just kept these around haha


A little update and a few questions for phunk/ anybody experienced

I connected pretty much everything except the accessories and tries startinf the car.
I probably had a vacuum leak the first time plus my breather is unplugged (see pics on factory intake)
Anyways, I tried starting the car just to check for oil leaks and to see if everything was installed good before I wrap up everything else but it kept cranking normally and never started. I smelled the exhaust a little bit but it never started.

I tried again today after connecting a few more sensors and now the engine cranks way faster.. I'm guessing the GT-R injectors plus too much cranking flooded the engine with fuel?

Anyways I will try again tomorrow after work. Hopefully it dries by.

Also, I checked the coils with my old plugs and it had spark and I can hear the fuel pump prime.

Keep in mind this is still on stock tune and pump but just changed the injectors.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cbfab4d3f1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4abcf7204b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eaf2d2abe8.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On my constant flow injection system, everytime I open the system up or clean the injectors, i get some air trapped in the lines - which makes it take quite a few extra cranks to start. Sometimes a lot, even had to prime it with gas a few times. (Same process with diesel injection too).

If I think I have flooded it for any reason, I immediately pull a plug and see if its wet with fuel. If it is wet, I pull all the plugs, and crank the engine over with the coils disconnected (to reduce the risk of a fire). Once that is done, I dry the plugs with compressed air, and let the engine sit for a while (hour or so) with the plugs out - so it can evaporate the fuel off the piston and rings. Put it all back togeher and then try and restart it.

I dont ever let a flooded engine sit with fuel in the cylinder hoping it will dry out. That is not good on the cylinder walls as it removes oil. Fuel has alcohols and other solvents in it which may corrode the wall and rings. Not to mention the fuel may drain past the rings into the crankcase and dilute the engine oil.

I'm not terribly experienced with this in particular, but I don't think you have much chance at getting it to start with the different injectors or the open PCV connection on the intake.... plug that and get a tune from your tuner and I think it could start. I'd imagine they could get you something that would at least start.

GT-R turbos on the VQ37
 

I just opened two of the spark plugs on separate banks and they looked and smelled dry!
I'm not sure why the car was cranking at a regular speed last night and now it cranks way faster.. I double checked and fuel is reaching the rails. Spark is there also




I just plugged that pcv connection and tried again and nothing unfortunately. I was hoping to have the car start so I can make sure everything's okay.

I did ask Seb@SZ and he told me that it should start but run rough with GTR injectors.

I'm not sure what i'm missing at this point. Going to read the FSM tonight and try again tomorrow after work.





Edit: I do have a couple codes showing up on my obd2 scanner but mainly because I didn't have the throttle bodies plugged in all the way the first time I tried to start I.

P0228
P0123
P1233
P2101

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So three things needed for it to start.

Compression - should have that - nothing changed there.
Spark - youve checked that - its good right? Plugs fire when the engine is cranking?
Fuel - bone dry plugs mean no fuel.

So, is there the correct fuel pressure value at the rails?
If no, then have to determine why.
If yes, then what about injectors, do they pulse during engine cranking?
If no, then then the fsm diagnostics chart should help determine the conditions required for injector cycling.

I would think it should start and run on GTR injectors with no real problem.

Just my thoughts on it!

Thanks for the help. It cranks really fast so I'm thinking ground isn't an issue, and spark is also good so does that rule having the flywheel in the wrong position? It almost seems like theres good pressure at the rails but the injectors aren't opening at all.

Going to diagnose more tonight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OP - I spent the last hour reading this thread.. Can't wait to see the dyno sheet!

https://media.giphy.com/media/5xaOcL...qqrK/giphy.gif

Sub'd

Thanks for reading through it! I'm really excited as I figured out why it wasn't starting!

Can anybody guess why it didnt start?


https://youtu.be/ZOFcOWro300

I'm trying to not start it anymore until I finish it!


That way I can have all the filters on first etc but it seems to run decent and doesn't even idle rough



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome!

First guess, flywheel sensor?

My guess is flywheel in wrong position.....but for funsies on gonna guess fuel pump was disconnected

GT-R turbos on the VQ37
 

I figured it was just a dumb mistake so I traced the wiring harness and yep.. the injector main harness was disconnected!

I'm glad I didn't have to drop the trans again and that it was an easy fix.

I bought new steering rack bolts and my downpipe is arriving Monday hopefully. I'm thinking I should have everything bolted in place with the exception of the accessories so I have more room for the intercooler/inlet piping


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cranking real fast sounds like ignition timing is way off, so the either the crank sensor is unplugged, or the reluctor wheel/flywheel is not phased properly.

I suppose the cam sensors could be unplugged too!

Ohh cool you got it!

Bad guess on my part.

Wooooooooooooooooooooo it lives!

Will you be selling the adapters?

I've been real busy with work so haven't had time to work on it a lot but I did get the inlets basically on and the transmission is bolted and done.

Where do you guys think I should route the turbo inlet? Should I just slap a filter in that location?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...34e7249de8.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that location would be way too hot, but the AAM kit kind of does it, with a small extension pipe:

http://whiteheadperformance.com/wp-c...r-Filter-2.jpg

The other kits (GTM, Gamma, FI, Greddy) route the filters to the outside cavities in the front bumper:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N3...=w1369-h770-no

Thanks! It's really tight in there but I'll try route it like the AAM kit.

I installed the trans and torqued everything and also put back the driveshaft. Hoping to finish the power steering tonight!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ccfcfbb987.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...65c7099d68.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just keeps getting better!:tup:

:shakes head:

I cleared every single thing on my profile and it still says that :/ not sure what to do anymore!

I finished installing everything in the interior except the cubby since I'm thinking of modifying it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...237362d1f8.jpg

Also figured out how I'm mounting the PS cooler to clear the intercooler. Hopefully it gets enough cooling here though!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3e4d0483e8.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another small update!! The intercooler piping turned out to be way easier than I originally thought. By using a cheapo eBay universal kit, I didn't even have to cut or modify anything for the driver side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bae0f133df.jpg

Currently working on the passenger side which is a little bit harder but hoping to finish it tonight.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6aff1a4820.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

who'da thunkit!? That is amazing. You're a beast!

I second that motion!!!

3rd

You might consider using hump couplers on some of the connections to lower the strain on the joints when the motor rocks a little.

Edit: Are the tube ends beaded? Do you have access to a bead roller?

http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/med...c_black_67.jpg

Had these on my charge pipes and you can see them take the flex on revving.

Yes the tube ends are beaded (driver side at least:ughdance:) and that coupler looks like a good idea!

I might buy it for the bottom intercooler connection. Thanks again.

Well the passenger side wasn't as easy as I'd hoped but it's still done after some manual cutting and a vice to hold the pipes.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9cbd876e72.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5471760162.jpg

Now I'm focusing on how to locate the turbo inlet in a cool location! It's super tight in there and I'm not sure where to put it at this point but I'll figure something out :)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

awesome work buddy! I know you are going to finish this soon :tup:

Finally received the downpipes! Hopefully the car will be ready by Monday so I can tow it to a nearby muffler shop.

I will be routing them to where the oem Y pipe goes so I can change exhausts easily down the line.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...933909a904.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4e811172dd.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are those OEM downpipes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No they are a "dump pipe" sold on eBay for $200~


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah ok. That makes sense. That's nice to have at least. It makes custom fab work easy when you have the base flange in hand lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk