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GT-R turbos on the VQ37

Originally Posted by husam2012 My bad luck finally caught up to me. The car still runs perfect... To be honest, I don't know a lot about engine internals and reading

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Old 10-03-2017, 09:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by husam2012 View Post
My bad luck finally caught up to me.

The car still runs perfect...
To be honest, I don't know a lot about engine internals and reading the fragment tea leaves in oil... is it possible that the motor will live a long life even after that episode?

Would a fresh oil change and then oil analysis at the next interval offer any clues as to the health of the motor? Maybe even an analysis of the oil you just drained?

If you are right about it, I am heartbroken for you and would echo the other reply of finding a used VHR to swap in if you can afford it... clearly you can handle the labor yourself. =)

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Old 10-03-2017, 09:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would send the oil to Blackstone for oil analysis before doing anything else. How big was the flakes that you seen?
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Old 10-03-2017, 06:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Did you plan to post the design or sell the adapters so people on the forum can put together their own gtr kit??
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would send the oil to Blackstone for oil analysis before doing anything else. How big was the flakes that you seen?
Unfortunately I had my boss who's been working on tuning performance cars (GTRs, Supras, etc) for a long time and he told me that it's just a matter of time before it spins a bearing considering what we saw in the oil filter.

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Did you plan to post the design or sell the adapters so people on the forum can put together their own gtr kit??


Yes I will, I'm hoping to figure out the final piece tomorrow but I do have the website up if you want to pay to join the group buy!


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Old 10-03-2017, 09:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can change the bearings without entirely rebuilding the engine or even removing the heads. That is, if you felt it was worth all the work. If you planned to build it in a year anyway, I wouldnt bother. But if you wanted to get several years from the stock engine it could be worth it.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can change the bearings without entirely rebuilding the engine or even removing the heads. That is, if you felt it was worth all the work. If you planned to build it in a year anyway, I wouldnt bother. But if you wanted to get several years from the stock engine it could be worth it.
I've changed bearings before without pulling the motor. You might be able to do the same thing. Depends on how willing you are.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've changed bearings before without pulling the motor. You might be able to do the same thing. Depends on how willing you are.
In the Z you need to remove the engine to remove the upper oil pan. This would get you access to the rod bearing. If you needed to do the main bearings too the bedplate will have to come off and thats essentially a full tear down except you can leave the heads on.

I suppose you could also drop the crossmember to get the upper pan off but that is a nightmare. I did that with my DE once to change the rear seal housing and it was torture being under there with the engine dripping oil on me the entire time.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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In the Z you need to remove the engine to remove the upper oil pan. This would get you access to the rod bearing. If you needed to do the main bearings too the bedplate will have to come off and thats essentially a full tear down except you can leave the heads on.

I suppose you could also drop the crossmember to get the upper pan off but that is a nightmare. I did that with my DE once to change the rear seal housing and it was torture being under there with the engine dripping oil on me the entire time.
I've lifted a couple of V8's up with hoist. Dropped the pan to change the bearings. Yeah, forgot how the bottom of the Z motor is. Not enough room, even with the motor lifted.
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hmm. I don't want to throw any shade around, but you had a coolant leak, and then spun a bearing. Any possibility the tune issue? Sounds like you pressurized the cooling system on the dyno ?

If you ran too much timing, or too lean, it's definitely going to pop the head gasket, pressurize the system, and leak externally. Now normally I've seen when this happens coolant comes spewing our the reservoir, but I guess it's possible to leak out of some other seal BEFORE the radiator.

And of course, you now have a spun bearing. I just find it hard to believe that a lot of other guys are boosted on stock internals, making a bit more power than you, and so far so good on their stock motors.
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hmm. I don't want to throw any shade around, but you had a coolant leak, and then spun a bearing. Any possibility the tune issue? Sounds like you pressurized the cooling system on the dyno ?



If you ran too much timing, or too lean, it's definitely going to pop the head gasket, pressurize the system, and leak externally. Now normally I've seen when this happens coolant comes spewing our the reservoir, but I guess it's possible to leak out of some other seal BEFORE the radiator.



And of course, you now have a spun bearing. I just find it hard to believe that a lot of other guys are boosted on stock internals, making a bit more power than you, and so far so good on their stock motors.


You must of missed the post where I mentioned that the car was idled with no oil pressure up to operating temp while I checked for leaks. Totally my fault that I didn't see the low oil pressure symbol on the dash.

The tuner isn't the best either but I'm almost certain it's just the oil issue and nothing else.


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Old 10-04-2017, 02:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wasn't the motor starved of oil, at one point?

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Old 10-04-2017, 02:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Gotcha, I did totally miss that. Like I said, I didn't want to say it to spread any type of animosity, but just another line of thinking on the possibility of what could have happen.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks phunk for the help, but i don't really wanna mess with trying to change bearings only for it to possibly fail on me again in the future. I do have access to a lift now thankfully (at my new job) and can probably swap a used engine in over a weekend.

Now the funny thing I just discovered as I was searching for a used engine on eBay...
All of them list compression as 280-290 on all cylinders.

I did a compression test on my engine while it was warm just before the dyno and got 170-180 consistently across all 6 cylinders which I thought was normal since it was consistent.

I guess that's why the car only made 460~ whp on 93 octane.
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Old 10-04-2017, 09:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I have the spec sheet, the compression psi test varies a bit. I don't recall it, but is a huge variance
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Old 10-04-2017, 09:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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175 psi is typical for many 11:1 engines I have tested, that are in good running order.

110-120 psi would be concerning.

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