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Originally Posted by husam2012 My bad luck finally caught up to me. The car still runs perfect... To be honest, I don't know a lot about engine internals and reading
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Would a fresh oil change and then oil analysis at the next interval offer any clues as to the health of the motor? Maybe even an analysis of the oil you just drained? If you are right about it, I am heartbroken for you and would echo the other reply of finding a used VHR to swap in if you can afford it... clearly you can handle the labor yourself. =) I sent you a PM.
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I would send the oil to Blackstone for oil analysis before doing anything else. How big was the flakes that you seen?
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Yes I will, I'm hoping to figure out the final piece tomorrow but I do have the website up if you want to pay to join the group buy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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You can change the bearings without entirely rebuilding the engine or even removing the heads. That is, if you felt it was worth all the work. If you planned to build it in a year anyway, I wouldnt bother. But if you wanted to get several years from the stock engine it could be worth it.
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I suppose you could also drop the crossmember to get the upper pan off but that is a nightmare. I did that with my DE once to change the rear seal housing and it was torture being under there with the engine dripping oil on me the entire time. |
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Hmm. I don't want to throw any shade around, but you had a coolant leak, and then spun a bearing. Any possibility the tune issue? Sounds like you pressurized the cooling system on the dyno ?
If you ran too much timing, or too lean, it's definitely going to pop the head gasket, pressurize the system, and leak externally. Now normally I've seen when this happens coolant comes spewing our the reservoir, but I guess it's possible to leak out of some other seal BEFORE the radiator. And of course, you now have a spun bearing. I just find it hard to believe that a lot of other guys are boosted on stock internals, making a bit more power than you, and so far so good on their stock motors. |
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You must of missed the post where I mentioned that the car was idled with no oil pressure up to operating temp while I checked for leaks. Totally my fault that I didn't see the low oil pressure symbol on the dash. The tuner isn't the best either but I'm almost certain it's just the oil issue and nothing else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Gotcha, I did totally miss that. Like I said, I didn't want to say it to spread any type of animosity, but just another line of thinking on the possibility of what could have happen.
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Thanks phunk for the help, but i don't really wanna mess with trying to change bearings only for it to possibly fail on me again in the future. I do have access to a lift now thankfully (at my new job) and can probably swap a used engine in over a weekend.
Now the funny thing I just discovered as I was searching for a used engine on eBay... All of them list compression as 280-290 on all cylinders. I did a compression test on my engine while it was warm just before the dyno and got 170-180 consistently across all 6 cylinders which I thought was normal since it was consistent. I guess that's why the car only made 460~ whp on 93 octane. |
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