Two oil coolers?
 

Anyone know if our pump can handle an extra oil cooler. Was thinking about adding a second.

Yes I ran two 34row coolers... it's over kill! My oil temps never truly got into operating temps unless it was 100* outside and I was beating on the car hard! Two smaller ones would do fine but two large 34 row coolers is too much capacity. The pump can handle it but it doesn't do you any good

So basically stayed at thermostat open temps Like 180ish or so?

Where did you have them placed?

In front of the radiator and behind my intercooler. They were centered in the opening

You may be able for find pressure drop (AKA ΔP (delta P) and DP) figures for the coolers.

If the coolers are in series, add the DPs to get total drop across the coolers. If total DP will leave you with enough system pressure, then all you have to worry about is too much cooling with two coolers.

If in parallel, use the parallel resistors formula (if DPs are the same, total will be half of the individual DPs for the coolers). Total will be less than the least restrictive (lowest DP) cooler, so, if either of the coolers will pass enough oil, adding the other will only decrease total cooler DP.

Just driving I'm around 160-180. Track I'm 230-260 so you see the need. Beauty is I can just reach down and throw a plate in front of one since all my hood latch stuff in the front is all removed.

I may add a second cooler since I still hit 240-250 degrees on the track with a 34-row. It's not a high priority, but on the TODO list nevertheless...

Well ive vented the nose for the CAI and air will reach the top of the radiator now and i got a CSF triple pass on the way so we'll see. If i cant stay sub 240 im adding a second cooler.

I would throw a 24 row in line. Mine was two 34 rows in line. The only thing I think I could have done was thrown a block off plate in front of one to help bring the temps up.

My 48 is like a 34 so ill keep that in mind.

So, im about do get this going....

Im looking at 2x 19 row setrabs that im going to hang sideways and hovering the fender wells vertically....

The venting - I bought a second 2015 nose used without the drls for a steal... i figure, the drl holes should supply sufficient venting along with some naca vents for the brakes... Im also adding 1 spal pusher fan per side. They will be controlled thermostatically via relays and inline thermo sensors @ 200 degrees. The Exhaust will go straight out the fender well via a grill that ill fab and house the suspended coolers with pp plastic as a form of shroud.

Plumbing - I plan to run it in series with a thermostatic bypass somewhere in the middle so its running on 1 until 180 degrees. Im planning on -10 an for the system since the coolers arent huge.

The oil pump will get swapped for another oem with a billet gear to handle the forced induction and extra oil capacity

Right now, i have a 34 row on a mocal thermo plate and -8an plumbing and no fan... in Denver summers, its just not keeping up with me, especially in the mountains... track is showing 250 degrees ( not over, since i back it off and go for a cool down lap when i see that.

The overall IATs are insane. I plan to drop in turbos this spring (should have been this month) and i want to clear up the radiator/ FMIC. This should do the trick along with a vented hood as a planned purchase for the spring.

Before doing all that, I'd explore ventilation to move hot air out and/or upgrade to a 72 row.

When I had the 2015 nismo bumper on engine coolant temps peaked at 237F and the oil was in limp mode territory in summer weather on the track. That bumper is just too restrictive IMO for track duty. You would need to make many holes in it for it to function.

Im assuming that you are responding to my post....

I will be evacuating the hot air directly out the fender wells as not to contaminate intake air and add to IATs...

I am trying to maintain an oem look to the car while solving the temp issues. Id prefer not to start adding on aftermarket body panels..

If it gets to that, ill end up upgrading the rad and possibly add a vented hood.

Vented hood. :tup: I put TrackSpec cutouts in mine. :tup:

I was wondering how many people are running the factory oil cooler with a aftermarket one ... did anyone bother to remove it or add the new one with it ... does it benifit using it and if so how much ... I removed mine and was thinking of putting it back

I kept mine. My coolant gets up to temp before my oil does, so it's really technically functioning as an oil warmer until they're the same temp, at which point it will try to keep them equal. Plus I was being lazy about removing it and opening up the coolant lines. I use K&N filters and the clearance is a little tight; I'm not sure how much luck you'd have with longer filters, but I'm sure someone else will chime in.

I have a twin turbo setup and have done a 72 oil cooler, hood and bumper vents. You will find that fmic will had additional issues to cooling. I run a combo of water wetter, antifreeze and water with oem radiator and it seems to be doing the job. Oil temps on the other hand is a mixed bag as I can run some sessions and the oil temp will be 240ish and then it will be 260 and the next back to 240ish. I would be concerned with rocks being thrown it the oil coolers mounted on the side especially if do a little off roading as I am prone to here lately. I look forward to seeing your results.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5406cb35b9.jpg

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The OEM Oil/Water cooler will, in some ways, fight against an aftermarket Air/Air cooler since it regulates to coolant temp vs ambient temp. On the positive side, it will bring your oil up to temp faster (as dts3 pointed out). On the negative side, it will also keep your oil warmer if you have an air/air cooler capable to lowering the oil temp below the coolant temp (34 row will easily do this on the street).

I am TT and do not have an air/air cooler... but I do have the GTM oil pan, which increases capacity and also acts as a large heatsink. For a street car, my oil temps are acceptable. However, believing many forum users' claims that the "OEM cooler does nothing" I went ahead and removed it in order to gain some clearance for servicing the oil filter (with my giant oil pan it's pretty tight in there) and what I found out was that the OEM Oil Cooler absolutely does something and is easily good enough for a street car (IMO!), even one like mine that is TT (again, I have a high capacity heatsink for an oil pan). I have a thread or post or something somewhere with a little data to support this...but IIRC in similar conditions, my oil temp settled at 260 without the cooler, 230ish with. Something like that... Again, I do not see any track time.

My advice - If you have an aftermarket Air/Air cooler, remove the OEM cooler so you can get the best performance out of the Air/Air and also just to avoid the sandwich-plate/plumbing-bonanza that you will have down there.

One more tip for anyone else considering a delete - removing the OEM oil cooler is super easy. Just remove the cooler and soft lines, replace the oil filter stud with one from '09-'11, and cap the hard lines. Doing it this way makes putting the thing back on super easy as well.

Sorry for the novel, hope it helps!

I’m single turbo and am running the 25 row oil cooler and I’m seeing 205 ish temp daily driving and running it fairly aggressive seeing around 225 ish ....now it is only 60 degrees right now and figured it would increase to 235-240 in summer .....my thought was My coolant temp is around 185-195 ...if it knocked off even 10 degrees before the A to A cooler then it would make it more effective...plus warming the oil sooner to flow better faster .....maybe I’m over thinking it

What weight of oil are you running. I actually think your temps are pretty good. Mine run about 210ish or so but I run 0-50 so it will run a little hotter in normal conditions. I also so a temp with 0-40.

I guess when you put it that way, it probably would help. =) I think you sold me lol

I use 5/30 amsoil oil

You really are not that bad but 10* cooler I think all of us would take that!:driving:

Lol I figured it would be a free upgrade if it improved any ..and since I have two of them laying around ..worse case would be it didn’t change it and I could just remove it on the next oil change

There isn’t much chance of rocks hitting the oil cooler on the side ..I have the 2017 nismo..with the different front bumper ....there is a small vent angled to direct air flow toward that area ..but it would be very slim chance of debris to getting there.....I just changed the oil and after I verify oil filter clearance I’ll plan to route it back in next oil change

I have been looking at the clearance for the oil filters with the sandwich and stock oil cooler ...you said you used the k&n filter and it was a tight fit ...do you know the part number of the one you use ...and how tight was the fit ....trying to decide if I should look into a filter relocation kit ...rather not tho

I was getting really close to buying a stillen bumper, but i got a second 2015 bumper (same car color) for a steal used off of ebay.. im planning to widen the drl holes and add naca vents for brake ducting.

Im strongly looking at the fly1 ams fiberglass hood... painted, im thinking this will do the trick.

So much on the shopping list though, ill get around to this when it becomes critical. or if the lottery bends to my will this week :)

I did get in mach ups of the 19 row coolers i want to have in there

After test fitting the FMIC w mach ups and looking close at finished builds, im going to have to wait until my TT is installed in late March before I can pull the trigger. I dont want to give the TT installers a headache.

Looks like I have a choice - reroute the intakes to above the factory crash bar and run out extensions from the crash bar to mount the Oil coolers at the fender wells, or see if the oil coolers can live fittings down between the charge pipes.

If i ran the stillen nose, i wouldn't be fighting myself on this.

Are you running a fan on that 72?

I am not running a fan at this time, but will be considering it with my rebuild. Got to find a way to drop 10* to 20* lol.

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So I put the OEM oil cooler back in with the 25 row....with only the 25 row oil cooler I was around ~210 in 60 degree weather and it would increase to ~225 with aggressive driving ...After adding the OEM with the 25 row ...still 60 degree weather ....I’m seeing ~190 and with some aggressive driving ~200 -205. Oil comes up to temp fairly quickly and when it is around 205 it comes back down to 190 ish with in a minute or so. From what I’m seeing summer temps would increase maybe 20-25 more degrees across the board on the hottest days . The factory cooler definitely does assist the A to A cooler and works great in cold weather bringing the oil temp up.

Update- Finally got some 95-100 degree weather and running the factory oil cooler with the 25 row really helped ... aggressive driving holds around 225 and no up and down spikes compared to last summer I was seeing a lot of high spikes with just the A to A cooler ... defenently a worth while using it

This. It's much better as an oil warmer than an oil cooler

That's the only reason it's still on my car.

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Yes it is great in the winter time to warm the oil as well ...it also is very stable in summer time .. looks to knock off 10-15 degrees in summer to .. but since I already had it in the garage it made a free efficient FREE mod lol