I was wondering how many people are running the factory oil cooler with a aftermarket one ... did anyone bother to remove it or add the new one with it
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12-03-2018, 08:05 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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I was wondering how many people are running the factory oil cooler with a aftermarket one ... did anyone bother to remove it or add the new one with it ... does it benifit using it and if so how much ... I removed mine and was thinking of putting it back
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12-03-2018, 09:53 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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I kept mine. My coolant gets up to temp before my oil does, so it's really technically functioning as an oil warmer until they're the same temp, at which point it will try to keep them equal. Plus I was being lazy about removing it and opening up the coolant lines. I use K&N filters and the clearance is a little tight; I'm not sure how much luck you'd have with longer filters, but I'm sure someone else will chime in.
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12-03-2018, 01:03 PM | #18 (permalink) | |
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12-03-2018, 02:03 PM | #19 (permalink) | ||
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I am TT and do not have an air/air cooler... but I do have the GTM oil pan, which increases capacity and also acts as a large heatsink. For a street car, my oil temps are acceptable. However, believing many forum users' claims that the "OEM cooler does nothing" I went ahead and removed it in order to gain some clearance for servicing the oil filter (with my giant oil pan it's pretty tight in there) and what I found out was that the OEM Oil Cooler absolutely does something and is easily good enough for a street car (IMO!), even one like mine that is TT (again, I have a high capacity heatsink for an oil pan). I have a thread or post or something somewhere with a little data to support this...but IIRC in similar conditions, my oil temp settled at 260 without the cooler, 230ish with. Something like that... Again, I do not see any track time. My advice - If you have an aftermarket Air/Air cooler, remove the OEM cooler so you can get the best performance out of the Air/Air and also just to avoid the sandwich-plate/plumbing-bonanza that you will have down there. One more tip for anyone else considering a delete - removing the OEM oil cooler is super easy. Just remove the cooler and soft lines, replace the oil filter stud with one from '09-'11, and cap the hard lines. Doing it this way makes putting the thing back on super easy as well. Sorry for the novel, hope it helps!
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12-03-2018, 07:45 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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I’m single turbo and am running the 25 row oil cooler and I’m seeing 205 ish temp daily driving and running it fairly aggressive seeing around 225 ish ....now it is only 60 degrees right now and figured it would increase to 235-240 in summer .....my thought was My coolant temp is around 185-195 ...if it knocked off even 10 degrees before the A to A cooler then it would make it more effective...plus warming the oil sooner to flow better faster .....maybe I’m over thinking it |
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12-03-2018, 08:53 PM | #21 (permalink) | |
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12-03-2018, 09:25 PM | #22 (permalink) | ||
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12-03-2018, 09:41 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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You really are not that bad but 10* cooler I think all of us would take that!
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12-03-2018, 09:42 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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Lol I figured it would be a free upgrade if it improved any ..and since I have two of them laying around ..worse case would be it didn’t change it and I could just remove it on the next oil change
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12-03-2018, 09:50 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
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12-04-2018, 08:15 PM | #27 (permalink) | |
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12-16-2018, 02:03 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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I was getting really close to buying a stillen bumper, but i got a second 2015 bumper (same car color) for a steal used off of ebay.. im planning to widen the drl holes and add naca vents for brake ducting.
Im strongly looking at the fly1 ams fiberglass hood... painted, im thinking this will do the trick. So much on the shopping list though, ill get around to this when it becomes critical. or if the lottery bends to my will this week
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12-16-2018, 02:20 AM | #29 (permalink) | |
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After test fitting the FMIC w mach ups and looking close at finished builds, im going to have to wait until my TT is installed in late March before I can pull the trigger. I dont want to give the TT installers a headache. Looks like I have a choice - reroute the intakes to above the factory crash bar and run out extensions from the crash bar to mount the Oil coolers at the fender wells, or see if the oil coolers can live fittings down between the charge pipes. If i ran the stillen nose, i wouldn't be fighting myself on this. Are you running a fan on that 72?
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12-16-2018, 10:31 AM | #30 (permalink) | |
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