Okay I believe I have unthreaded given the year but will know when I get it off. So was the one on the left the cut stub? I was wanting to use OEM shafts as the Z1 products I bought in the past have broken and was not thrilled with the quality.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

There are different types of quaife lsds for each model. If you happen to have the sport model 370z with the vlsd and you buy the quaife made for the sport model then you will just need to cut the longer stub axle down to accommodate the the quaife lsd.

If you happen to have the base model 370z with the open diff then you will not need to do anything but swap the two short stub axles you have no modification required.

Hope that clears things up.


For me I was a dingus and had an open diff and bought a fully built quaife diff for a sport model and had a bit of confusion with the setups since I assumed it was all the same.

Hope this helps ! :)

Sent from my MHA-L29 using Tapatalk

The left and center are the OEM stub out of my diff. The shiny one on the right is the one I got from Z1. The one on the left is uncut.

Hey rusty, just wondered if you could clear something up for me. I noticed in your pic of the three stub axles ,that the one you bought from z1 for your OS Giken diff is short like your Oem LH stub axle but the Z1 axle is tapered and yours is flat ! I thought if fitting an OS Giken diff to a VLSD equipped 370z you just needed to buy another LH short stub axle so you’d end up with 2 short non tapered axles for a VLSD equipped 370z but seeing your pic has me confused.

Z1 probably sent him the wrong one ;)

I'm confused as well. The replacement one should look like the one on the left. This is what you need: Nissan Part #38220-JK01B (need 1 if you have VLSD - base open diff already uses both).

I bought my OS Giken from MAM. I e-mailed them that I needed a new stub axle. They got the axle from Z1 and shipped it to me. It works.

Rusty, those pics you posted show threaded holes for the axles. This is one of those variances I have posted about. The pic that Jarblue post is a none threaded one that you have to bolt through. The bolt through axles are also what you need for the DSS pro level axles. There are so many variables it is hard to keep track.

:iagree:

Really.

Important things are the axle bolt hole style and the stub axle snap ring location is the same as the short oem.

:iagree: The taper really doesn't matter - I was kidding in my post about the wrong part.

I've talked to a couple of guys that used the bolt-thru stub axle that I linked with their threaded axles. Said there was no problems using it, although I didn't get any specifics like whether they had to clean out the threaded holes or what.

So are the part numbers different for the short non tapered stub axle threaded/non threaded?