Hello everyone. Bought this car not too long ago. Almost due for the first oil change. I daily the car and do enjoy spirited driving. I know when I bought
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04-27-2016, 09:48 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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That rattling at idle.
Hello everyone. Bought this car not too long ago. Almost due for the first oil change. I daily the car and do enjoy spirited driving. I know when I bought the car ( 70k miles ) I did have the "typical" idle noises. At first I would get the noise clutch pressed in and it would go away. ( or vice versa whichever is the "typical" issue that I've been reading about ).
Now here lies my concern. I've searched and read a few threads about the issue and nothing seems to show a bad rattling noise at idle with the clutch IN or OUT. It doesn't matter. In N , in Gear clutch in or out it will rattle. There is no change in tone clutched in or out . It is the same either way. Of course, sound goes away while a gear is engages. I only hear it at idle. SURELY this can not just be normal. Honestly, it sounds like crap. I just noticed whether I clutch in or out it sounds BAD. Is there a FIX to this issue? |
04-27-2016, 10:06 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Sorry to hear you are having issues. I'm no expert but folks on here surely are. Hopefully someone will have some advice for you soon.
Can you post a sound clip? Do you have any mods?
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04-27-2016, 10:19 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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The vehicle is completely stock. I'll get a sound clip on it tomorrow. I'm hoping there is a fix to this. My clutch will slip only when shifting hard at full throttle and high rev. I do not want to buy anything aftermarket or "lightweight" if it means it'll multiply that damn noise. I'm all ready embarrassed enough. It completely sound like crap and of course when I shut it off it sounds worse. Thanks for your reply.
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04-27-2016, 11:01 PM | #4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Yeap, it is normal. That is the tranny chattering due to how it the input shaft was designed the best I can figure. The dual mass flywheel covers it up for the most part. A lightweight flywheel makes it even worse. Sometimes you will get it, and sometimes you don't. Change the tranny fluid with a good quality GL4 75w90 Synthetic fluid and it will help some.
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04-28-2016, 06:02 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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I'll post a sound video up later. Why do some people experience it with the clutch out and not in and I experience it either in or out then?
Also could there be another problem coming up that we don't just say is normal? |
04-28-2016, 05:55 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Here's the sound clip. Of course with the mic very close it sounds like the engine is going to fall out but I'm sure you guys know the difference.
https://youtu.be/LWvGVlyBq58 |
04-28-2016, 06:24 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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When you have the car out of gear in neutral and the clutch not pressed in the rattling noise is the clutch. Sound is usually louder with aftermarket clutches too.
When you press in the clutch the sound is supposed to go away due to the clutch, flywheel and transmission gears are all open and spinning at different speeds. If you press in the clutch and the sound goes away the clutch and pressure plate may need to be changed. If it is still on OEM and you haven't changed it and do not know the previous history of the clutch with the vehicle, I would think a new clutch and pressure plate would fix it. I would say see if changing the transmission and clutch fluid works, but if it doesn't and you need to look at getting the clutch and pressure plate, (usually is a good idea to get the flywheel as well), you will have to pay for both fluids a second time and for the labor again as well. As for the type of clutch and transmission fluid, Motul is always a good brand to go with I bought my Z a bit like yours. I bought mine with 88,400 on the odm and "had to" (clutch was weak and wanted to lol) replace the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel about 10k miles later. Went with ACT for those three and in the same process I went ahead and did the Z1 motorsports CSC elim kit and that itself makes the transmission and clutch feel sturdier and more reliable. I've had my new clutch setup for about 2 and a half months or so and still love it. Just copy and paste the link into your post. Don't need to embed the video in the post. Just a link to where people and click and view
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04-29-2016, 07:52 AM | #12 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Why does the sound go away pressed in and not out? Mine makes the noise regardless. What is going bad? You said if you press the clutch in and the sound goes away then something is bad. So you're saying the fact that when I press the clutch in and the noise doesn't change that my components are okay? Sorry if I've read this backwards or misinterpreted. Please clarify. My clutch is week under heavy shifting at high rpms. I'll replace what's needed and change the fluid. I'd still like to understand this. Atleast so I can explain it to my buddies who ask what the hell is wrong with your car lol. |
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04-29-2016, 07:54 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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That's normal with the oem clutch and flywheel.
You can replace the clutch and flywheel to solve that, but you will end up with a LOT more noise. If you think it sounds broken now, throw on a lightweight flywheel. The car will sound like a diesel F250.
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04-29-2016, 09:08 AM | #14 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
OP, if you want to change out parts to try and tame the chatter, talk to Joe @ ZSpeed and tell him your goals. He will get you the best clutch and flywheel setup for you at a great price.
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04-29-2016, 09:13 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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so everyone agrees that noise is the clutch and/or flywheel? That sounds awfully loud to be one of those...
Why wouldn't it be the input shaft bearing? OP: Do you notice that it doesn't happen when the car is cold, but rather, after you've driven it for some time? |
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