Heres my serious dilemma, I bought my Z used and I'm really not sure if the clutch may have been replaced already or what kind of shape it is in.
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03-09-2016, 12:36 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Heres my serious dilemma, I bought my Z used and I'm really not sure if the clutch may have been replaced already or what kind of shape it is in. I don't want to not replace the clutch since I'm already having work done...but I don't want to replace a perfectly good clutch...
Thoughts?
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03-09-2016, 12:40 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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Buy the clutch and flywheel, and make the call when your mechanic gets the tranny on the ground. If you don't need the new clutch, return it and eat the restocking fee.
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03-09-2016, 12:48 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
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My recommendation:
I still think only your CMC is failed. The part and labor are both cheap, so I say replace it and flush/bleed through some high quality DOT4 and see where you are. If you're still having issues then, do what Chuck just said.
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03-09-2016, 12:50 PM | #34 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
It can't hurt to do it this way. Worst case scenario you're just back to dropping the transmission, so you might as well see if you get lucky.
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04-12-2016, 05:07 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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So what happened?
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04-12-2016, 06:22 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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The bearing itself would make noise whenever you press on clutch pedal even lightly. That said if the clutch engages at a very low point then many times air is in the system. Bad and mainly boiling fluid injects air. Moreover worn seals in the csc or cmc let's air in. As mentioned bleeding is the first thing to do. When in second or third gear try heavy acceleration and if engine speed rises quicker then the speed of the car then clutch is slipping. Usually a worn clutch disc is also accompanied by a very high pedal engagement.
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