Originally Posted by PongSanity Happened to me. Was my clutch sensor. Replaced it via rock auto. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Where can I locate this sensor?
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05-16-2016, 07:12 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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On your clutch pedal, under the dash.
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05-18-2016, 12:11 PM | #20 (permalink) |
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So after inspecting the upper section of my clutch pedal, I noticed that the pedal is making full contact with the nipple that gets pushed in... and the electric plug is correctly plugged in.
Maybe the switch is slowly going bad and eventually it wont register my start at all? If I were to replace it, do I just pull the electric plug and nothing will brake? Or is there a clip or something I should watch out for? |
05-18-2016, 12:26 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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You can check operation of the switch with a cheap VOM (available at most auto parts stores).
Adjustment and R&R procedures should be in the FSM (link in my sig).
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05-18-2016, 12:26 PM | #22 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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05-18-2016, 01:07 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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I've been having the same issue for the past year or so...tried changing key fobs, replaced the car's battery (wen't dead over the winter), but still every once-in-a-while it would not start. Even the dealer could find nothing wrong. So, last week, I crawled under the dash and readjusted the lower clutch pedal switch (14mm jam nut) and screwed it in (Clockwise) about 3/4 of a turn to allow the switch button to be depressed more. Since then, I have had ZERO issues...starts every time now.
You can't just push in the lower switch button itself and expect the vehicle to start. There is an upper switch (for the cruise control) that has to be "open" for the car to start. Two things have to happen for the car to start: 1) The lower clutch switch must be closed (pushed in with the pedal) 2) The upper clutch switch must be open (pushed out with the pedal) Without BOTH of these switches in the right position, the car will not start... Take a look at the attached pdf document. BTW, the "C" gap for the lower switch should be 0.1-1.0mm (0.004-0.039")
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mults 40th Anniversary 'Z', 312.06HP/260.58TQ (Dynosty EcuTek Tune) Build Date/Number: 1/27/2010 #706 Berk HFC + CBE, R2C CAI, Clear Bra, Cleveland Z Club Last edited by mults; 05-18-2016 at 01:20 PM. |
05-18-2016, 02:37 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Ill report back to see if it is a complete fix. |
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05-19-2016, 08:02 AM | #27 (permalink) |
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OP - same issue happened to me when I first got my car, thought my RJM clutch pedal was screwing something up. Remove the clutch switch and clean the contact points with alcohol using eartips or something. Reassemble and voila, problem solved!
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07-09-2016, 01:05 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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Sorry it took a while for me to get back at anyone with similar issues, I procrastinate a lot.
So I was able to remove the old switch by turning "clockwise" to unscrew... I learned the hard way after bending the frame a little. I had to use some pliers to bend it back in position. Anyways I bought a new switch at the dealer for $25 plus a 14mm wrench for $10. So far no signs of the previous symptoms. |
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