Beginner HP increase build

iElliott v2

Hey everyone I am fairly new to my Z, had it less than 2 years and I have pretty much hit all the modifications I wanted to as far as appearances go.

I am looking now to get a Whp boost on a fair budget. I am not looking to turbo yet, still have some student loans to pay off. But i'd like to make the car a little quicker.

I've done some reading on exhaust, intakes, tunes, etc. What I am looking for is the best order to do some basic bolt on mods and which brands to go with.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

PS. I've got the Z1 clutch and lightweight flywheel if that means anything

Zero dark

If emissions isn't a concern in your state then test pipes for sure, catback exhaust and cold air intakes.

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MD Art Pipes, MD Shockwave exhaust, AAM Intakes, Stillen Crank Pulley, Z1 25 Row Setrab, Whiteline Diff Bushings, 20mm H&R spacers, BC-BR Coils, GT-R push button, 3M, Tommy Kaira Knob, Takata Drift III, Custom Harness Bar, Zwork Headlights, EVO-R, Uprev

iElliott v2

emissions are no concern, I live in Michigan and they don't have any emissions regulations

gomer_110

IMHO I'd do the exhaust side of things first. Either TP's or LTH's and a good CBE. After that, I'd do the intake side, so a good long tube CAI and one of the ported manifold options. You should also plan to get a tune once you do the intake side in order to get the most out of your parts.

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'11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions | Stillen | Motordyne | Uprev | CSF | Zspeed | Z1 Motorsports | AST | Swift | SPC | SPL | Whiteline | Hotchkis | Bride | Schroth | Robispec | Cusco | Nismo | Volk | Forgestar | Hoosier | RJM
'17 Titan Bone Stock

PongSanity

If you have turbo plans then get supporting mods for such... Non resonated cat back and test pipes. Both can be from fast intentions or motordyne. Then ported upper and lower intake manifolds from Z1 or SYNOLIMIT. Could also look into ported throttle bodies also from SYNOLIMIT, Z1, or eps tuning. Cai can be bought from stillen, z1, or aam. Tuning, go the ECUTEK route.


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Mysilverz

Get exhaust and test pipes. Then get a nice cold air intake. My car started at 280whp with intake and exhaust I hit 306whp when I added test pipes I hit 317whp. It's significantly quicker than stock. All the parts new would have cost roughly $2150. However you could easily find a fast intentions exhaust for around a $1000 used a set of test pipes (Elmo has some for sell right now) for $200, and you could probably search and find a good intake for around $350 used. So that's $1550.

Elmo370z

They sold. Thanks for the recommendation.

jwick

If I were NA modding on a budget I'd do the following:

- Be patient and pick up a used FI exhaust (~$1k)
- Find a used set of test pipes or HFCs (if you don't mind the smell of unburnt fuel then the test pipes will yield slightly higher numbers) ($200ish)
- Order a set of Z1 MAF tubes and leave the rest of the intake system as is. Nissan did a pretty good job with the stock intake if you replace just the tubing. Most don't realize it but the OEM intake is a CAI. ($108 new w/out K&N filter, $216 with)
- Ecutek tune ($6-800)

So grand total of roughly $2k and you pick up 40whp or so.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

JARblue

Great points, but go with R2C black hex drop-in dry filters

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jwick

I actually think all aftermarket filters are overrated. The OEM paper filter flows just as much air new and clean. The benefits to the aftermarket filters is they flow more air when dirty. You get the same performance by just changing OEM filter more often.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

JARblue

After all the R2C air flow testing data I've seen, I don't believe that for a second

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2011 Nismo#91

Budget:
Power Mods
1st Test pipes of your choice.
2nd Garageline X Mid pipe
3rd Axle back of your choice
4th K&N Drop in filters
This will give you the most bang for the buck.

Transmission:
0. Keep an eye one the color of your clutch fluid, if it goes to a dark black/brown change it. IMO RBF 600 or similar.
1. Save money for replacing your CSC with the Z1 CSC elimination kit.
2. Save money for upgrading your clutch flywheel
Buy/install them when your CSC fails or you have the money which ever comes first.
3. Low priority, LSD of your choice IMO Quafe, VLSD is only good for 30-50k miles and sucks for track type stuff.

Other stuff not really necessary
Sport brakes are very good.
For track replace pads and fluid, IMO Carbo tech XP10s front XP 8 Rear & RBF 600
SS lines are nice but not necessary, same goes for slotted rotors, Blank rotors are just fine.
Tires RE-11 are nice simmer tires, blizzak for winter tires on the cheapest rims you can find.
Oil cooler ~25 row is all you would need if you have temp issues.
Used Nismo coilover or KWV3s if you want to change it, V3s will be more comfortable.
Hotchkiss front swaybar and SPL endlinks.

jwick

Not familiar with those but K&Ns aren't that great

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

BC416

I've ran K&N's on all 3 of my cars I've owned. They've been great!

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F.I. / K&N / 180 / Forgestar

jwick

I never said they have issues

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build