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For those with a 2012 and above --- any DIY on the oem oil cooler bypass/delete when installing a real cooler? On the pic below, shouldn't you give more slack

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Old 11-21-2016, 01:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Two questions on this.

For those with a 2012 and above --- any DIY on the oem oil cooler bypass/delete when installing a real cooler?


On the pic below, shouldn't you give more slack for those lines?

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Originally Posted by RBfastback View Post
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Old 11-21-2016, 04:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by axmea? View Post
For those with a 2012 and above --- any DIY on the oem oil cooler bypass/delete when installing a real cooler?





On the pic below, shouldn't you give more slack for those lines?


that pic is deceiving it actually has about 2-3" of wiggle room up and down and i figured my engine shouldn't move more then that.

those lines are pretty firm, when i called FI they told me to make them nice and secure so they didn't rub around on anything.

i can't think of any need to leave more slack for something that shouldn't move that much as long at ur engine mounts are doing there job.

maybe someone else has better info
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Old 11-21-2016, 05:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by axmea? View Post
For those with a 2012 and above --- any DIY on the oem oil cooler bypass/delete when installing a real cooler?





On the pic below, shouldn't you give more slack for those lines?



also in the oem oil cooler bypass/delete
i didn't remove the belt like the directions said.
i literally cut the oem line up with tin snips and sheers and pulled all the old metal lines out in pieces.

also btw there oil cooler delete is literally a 2-3' line that u can get from the auto parts store.
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