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Originally Posted by axmea? For those with a 2012 and above --- any DIY on the oem oil cooler bypass/delete when installing a real cooler? On the pic below, shouldn't
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#1 (permalink) | |
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that pic is deceiving it actually has about 2-3" of wiggle room up and down and i figured my engine shouldn't move more then that. those lines are pretty firm, when i called FI they told me to make them nice and secure so they didn't rub around on anything. i can't think of any need to leave more slack for something that shouldn't move that much as long at ur engine mounts are doing there job. maybe someone else has better info |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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also in the oem oil cooler bypass/delete i didn't remove the belt like the directions said. i literally cut the oem line up with tin snips and sheers and pulled all the old metal lines out in pieces. also btw there oil cooler delete is literally a 2-3' line that u can get from the auto parts store. |
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Some other coolers whine too. Z1 had the problem. They put a sheath over the oil lines. I have the 34 row Z1. I can't hear a whine with mine. Maybe because I lost some hearing, or my Z is too loud.
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Not to derail here but what is the lowest temp that is acceptable for for operation with say a 34 row cooler?
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#6 (permalink) | |
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there's probably gonna be a massive verity of what ppl say is a safe low operating temp. but for me and what i read, i always took it easy and wouldn't rev much past 3k till my temp hit 160 on the gauge. there's a lot of debate about what ur real oil temp is going to be too. ppl say about 10-20 higher then what ur factory gauge reads due to it taking the temp after the oil exits the oil cooler. |
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