Originally Posted by Zless@arizona kannibul: Excellent points! Most important to me is that you mentioned Group III/IV/V oils, and that is the crux of the matter! .....IIRC, G-III is the
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11-17-2009, 06:21 AM | #121 (permalink) | |
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1. don't give any credit to his explanation of how engine break-in works I addressed that already (nothing personal it's just wrong) 2. In about 3 of the other NISSAN ESTER OIL threads I and other people have already stated that nissan's "ester" oil is NOT a regular race ester oil in the that is is regular old crap oil with .5-1.5% of a special ester additive in it, and trace amounts of nano sized pieces of industrial abrasives. To avoid people knowing how big of a scam it is NISSAN does not list the group rating for this oil because you cannot call it a group v ester oil since it is fundamentally a group II base stock. I don't see why nissan wouldn't use it in the factory fill because it is a $3 a quart oil. You need to realize that we are being charged $12.50 a quart in order to cover nissan's multiple patent cases, and the R/d cost of the initial devolpement of the oil which started way back before 2006 which is when nissan filed their international patent claim. Hell nissan doesn't even have to pay to package the oil headed to the factory as it probably comes in on a tanker and is pumped into dispensing system like most other auto manufacturers because it is stupid to pay a guy to sit there and open then pour 5 bottles of oil into every vehicle they make. If i sell you car and don't tell you a single thing about it or make a single claim, how can sue me later when after you drive it off the lot, the paint wash off with rain, the engine has 5 horsepower, windows do not move, the electrical system doesn't work in any temperature other than 60-70degs, and the interior is made from construction paper carefully folded/glued by underpaid chinese factory children? |
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11-17-2009, 06:33 AM | #122 (permalink) | |
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11-17-2009, 07:29 AM | #123 (permalink) |
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I'm saying it's up to you. Personally i think i'm ordering a crate of the new motul 300v for half the cost of the nissan oil and it's comparable to redline. although if you wanna talk transmissions after they replaced mine i put 50 miles on it and now it's going in storage because we have something called snow up here. When it gets out the first thing after throwing the battery back in and driving it home is going to be a few quarts of redline MT90. maybe a mix of nissan ester oil and motul? Who knows. I wish nissan would say more about the stuff so everyone wouldn't be getting so damn confused over it. Here's a quick check somebody who tracks their mileage wanna say what ti was before and after doing an ester to synthetic swap as that would directly indicate a change in friction reduction? If that comes out the same i say don't run the ester because you can run the synthetic longer for the same price. You know what if nobody has done it by spring i'll do it.
One thing is for sure though, DO NOT THINK THAT THE NISSAN OIL IS SYNTHETIC AND TRY TO PUSH IT OVER 3,500 MILES BETWEEN CHANGES. Even if it does indeed lubricate better (yet to be proven), It will still suffer thermal breakdown. |
11-19-2009, 08:03 AM | #124 (permalink) |
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Hey Mod, I just received this email from an Infiniti dealer. ya, it's not an official announcement, but it might help us verify what's in that engine from the factory...........
Oil Saturday, November 14, 2009 5:04 PM From: This sender is DomainKeys verified"brianaghajani11@beshoffinfiniti.dealer.com" <brianaghajani11@beshoffinfiniti.dealer.com> Add sender to Contacts To: <deleted> The G37 comes factory filled with Nissan Ester. This information was obtained from Infiniti Regional technical dept. Regards, Brian Aghajani
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11-19-2009, 08:53 AM | #125 (permalink) | |
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I mean, if Nissan markets the oil as synthetic, and it comes loaded with it from the factory then what's the harm...unless it's dino oil with additives (as spec'd here, and what I also believe to be true) - then that puts a twist on the logic of running dino-oil. I mean, dino oil with lots of additives are OK, but somehow synthetic isn't? The additives generally are what make one oil "better' than another, even to where something like a Group-III oil would perform better (ie, lubricate better, resist shearing, etc) than a Group-IV or Group-V oil...which brings me back to the original point...if Nissan Oil is being marketed as synthetic and/or having superior qualities than other oils out there (including high-dollar synthetics) and lets say maybe it does...then how can it be that running a true synthetic will harm break-in...it can't be both ways. Last edited by kannibul; 11-19-2009 at 08:56 AM. |
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11-19-2009, 08:56 AM | #126 (permalink) | |
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OK I'll start. Synthetic is better for the planet.
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11-19-2009, 09:08 AM | #127 (permalink) |
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i use group-vi oil
aka semen blah blah delete my irrelevant post
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11-19-2009, 10:28 AM | #128 (permalink) | ||
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Summary for the reading impaired: Dino (ester) from the factory Synthetic (optional) after proper break-in |
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11-19-2009, 10:37 AM | #129 (permalink) | |
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Nope, I don't recall seeing the oil marketed as synthetic, either. ;-)
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11-19-2009, 10:48 AM | #130 (permalink) |
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The second half of my point was omitted...if it's dino oil with an additive package that makes it "superior" to other oils in terms of lubrication properties (nano-particles, namely), then how is it that running a synthetic would be bad...?
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11-19-2009, 10:51 AM | #131 (permalink) |
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Who said synthetic was bad? Besides, it's good for the environment.
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11-19-2009, 10:59 AM | #133 (permalink) |
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Yes, but good for the environment. I'm trying to kill the thread.
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11-19-2009, 11:02 AM | #134 (permalink) | |
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Didn't you hypothesize that all the break in occurs in the first 20 minutes?? I don't think anyone has proved that synthetic is "bad" one way or the other, given the number of high end cars that are factory filled with Syn juice. That, and the fact that crosshatching can often be seen on high mileage cylinder bores would leave the whole break-in theory in question. |
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