Break In Period?
 

Anybody know what the proper break in methods and mileage is for this engine?

oh no not a break in thread.


ok this is how it will go:


1) todays engins don't need to be broke in because of better engineering. Drive it like you stole it.

2) The engineers but 1200 miles in the manual for a reason they get paid to know what they are doing go with the manual.

3) just keep it unter 6000rpm and very the RPM's for 1200 miles and you good.

4) All you got to do is change the oil after 500 miles

5) ya but use syn. oil after 500 miles

6) no man you got to wait 10,000miles to change




and so on and so forth.

^^^ (shumby) that covers the first 6 serious replies!

Well, when I bought my Mini the manual said to break it in for 1200 miles. I said yeah, whatever, and held back for 500 miles. In my case, this worked very well. Definitely my advice to anyone, though, is to do what the manual says to do. But what the heck do I know?

That's your personal opinion or our own way of breaking in. I am a firm believer of following directions of the highly knowledgeable Nissan Engineers but that's just me. :hello:

Here's what Nissan USA want you to follow.

http://www.the370z.com/images/370zfo...0in%20370z.PNG

Here's another thread you can read on the same topic: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...k-new-car.html

Didn't mean to start a fuss with this thread, I was just curious.

Reason being is if I enjoy my test drive enough at the end of this month to buy one of these things, I want to do it right and I want to know everything I can possible know about the car prior to buying (just like I did for my S2000 and CTS in the past).

Thanks for the info.

^^^ agreed AK you cannot go wrong with the manual.

I now have 200 miles on my 6MT and I find it very difficult to keep it below 4k. When you are on a two lane road passing situation you need to GO, I've had it above 4k at least twenty times and I have been trying not to.

What does Nissan recommend for the first oil change? My V6 Honda was something like 4k miles.

Break in period goes like this:

Over rev the motor, bring it in for a new one in 3 weeks.

Correct New Car break in.

On M/T rev motor to 6K and side step the clutch several times to seat the rings. On Auto's power brake the torque converter until the brakes won't hold the car still. At that point release the foot brake and smoke the tires up to 7500 and then shift until the car is well over 130MPH. Repeat until rings are set. New cars will smell very badly for the first few days. If you encounter problems with car. Do not call dealer until smell has subsided and car has cooled down.

dude this sounds like you cant wait to break your new toy:confused: where did read this?

EVERYONE DO NOT DO THIS TO YOUR CAR!!! the smell might go away but the computer is set, the dealer will for sure know what you did to the car, specially the newer models. they have computer monitors built in all cars that will show up at the dealership. In case somelight goes on in the car the computer registers " I think" the last hour or so of engine operation before the light went on. and the only way to reset that light is to bring it to the dealer and at the time it will void your warranty,:gtfo2: with this crazy idea

^^^ I think he was kidding, man. :bowrofl:

I call that abuse and "one used car, I don't want to buy!"

he might be kidding but have you seen the kind of questions people as around here... there is a sligh possibility that someone would just do that to their car...

I think we can all agree that inferences can be made from the VQ35DE and HR about the 3.7. That being said I remember an article in a reputable magazine (don't remember which one it was a long time ago). The article tracked two 2004 350Zs they were both dynoed within 500 miles of new with comparable results. After 20K of driving and opposite break ins the one that was constantly beat up dynoed almost 20HP higher than the one that had been babied.

I can say that at 22K miles my 350 pulled harder then it did that day I got it. I subscribe to the theory that a 500 mile break in with varrying revs and only moderate acceleration is a good thing. But when 500 miles ticks over I check the oil for contamination and excess metal. If nothing is out of the ordinary my next drive we be like I stole it and so will every drive after that.

break in periods are not there so your car can produce higher RPMs break in are for making your car last longer.. yes engines that are abused from day one will have a tendency to put out more power due to the computer systems in the car such as VVT system will learn the way the owner drives and when it comes testing time it will replicate the way the driver uses the car. If someone babies that car the computer will do the same on the test because it is used to using less power and making better MPG... does this sound logical to anyone? I would hope so

Higher RPMs? I'm pretty sure that regardless of how your cars computer learns your driving style when you push the pedal all the way down the same thing happens. I won't go in to open loop vs. closed loop because I don't know where the ECM makes the switch on this car. But, in your car that has been babbied carbon deposits are EVERYWHERE (robbing power and economy). Higer revs means more, faster air moving through the engine. This keeps things cleaner and working better. Maybe the cummulative load of driving like you stole it over say 100K miles might weaken something like a connecting rod or valve spring but probably not to the point of failure.

Anyway the reason that engines that have been driven hard make more power at WOT (there is only one WOT setting regardless of if you drive like grandma) is because the motor is clean(er).

Studdies have proven that the ideal engine RPM for longevity is 1500. So if longevity is all you care about enjoy driving your new 40K sports car like a lawnmower. :rofl2:

That being said it won't hurt anything to obey the published break in procedure. It will give you peace of mind and a chance to learn your new car. If you shorten it up a bit it's at your own risk but odds are it won't hurt anything.

I remember reading horror storries about Evo's not breaking in properly and leaking constantly. But I never came accross anything like that on a VQ.

As a prior Mitsubishi owner, they leak as a brand due to improper engineering ;)

my co-worker who is like a walking car dictionary told me what i should do -

have a light right foot.

don't go over 65mph on the highway

slow start and throttle

don't go over 3,000rpm

change oil after first 1000 miles

that's about it.

f**k that...dont rev past 4500 or floor it in the first 500 miles and try not too keep it at a consistent rpm for a prolonged amount of time (road trip!)...then change ur oil and drop it (right foot) like its hot. at least thats what most ppl say

No way would I baby it that much. I would go absolutely nuts for that much driving that easily.

I fall in the in between camp. I try not to rape it, but do not follow the published rpm to the number. Knock on wood, have always been blessed with a well running engine.

We could go on for days with this discussion, truth be told who gives a flying crap about what other people think of the proper way to break in or drive your car rignt?:driving: you could be a granny driving and always worry about whats going to happen or you could drive like a bat ouf of hell.. until something major goes on you wont notice it anyway... I think that this threat became more confusing for those who never owned a High performance car before than if they would have just driven their cars the way they wanted it to:werd:

...and don't forget not to check the oil.





I always break in my new cars by sitting on them and whipping them for 2 weeks. Never had any problems.

Old Man advice
 

My Father always said "break em in fast and they will stay fast" so I have followed that with every car I have ever owned and never had a problem...break em in like you own it....

D

Well, I sure hope THAT holds true! My new 370Z w/ sport package is HANDS DOWN, the fastest car I've ever been in! It kind of scares me!

Drove off the lot with 41mi on it, at 150mi, went on a 3-hr highway trip...but I did vary rpms and speed as much as possible.

To beat it all, it's saw redline MANY MANY times! Like...a lot of WOT redlines and 120mph probably 10 times so far. I've logged 1100 miles so far...

I've broken EVERY SINGLE rule in the book for break-in! I'm gonna change the oil @ 1200 miles and send it in for an analysis, so we'll see how bad a shape the engine is in.

Late,
Trav

The way i feel about it is:
1. throttle isn't what may cause problems, it's RPM
2. throttle helps seat your rings, RPM makes debris travel in higher oil pressures and puts stress on new parts
3. the engine is probably fine to get on at the 1200 mile oil change I just like the extra insurance of 3000
4. most people change oil after initial start up and heat cycle before taking it out on the road. It's a good idea, i'm just too damn excited to drive the car
5. always use conventional oil until 3000 miles. it isn't as slippery as synthetic and helps the parts "wear in" to each other/seat the rings

Being a police officer for several years I have had the pleasure of breaking in a few patrol cars and have always been told to break em in like you're going to drive them. I and most others on the force have drove new cars hard from day one with no problem. Have cars go 100k without any major issues and these cars are drove hard everyday.

That being said I trying to break my 370z in by the book even though I've had a few WOT moments. Simply because this is the most expensive car I've had.

I didn't know ECU has the AI capability.

It would nice to hear it from the service guys. Do the officers service their own cars they drive?

No, we have technicians that service all city vehicles on a regular basis. The main issues I've had with the patrol cars are suspension and steering (from offroad driving, bumps, and fast u turns.) Most of the engines hold up pretty well.

Yeah not quite. I have not one leak and I beat the **** out of my Evo.

On topic, your engine is broken in the first time it warms up. The only reason you should be easy on the car when it's brand new is because the clutch needs to be broken in.

I beat the piss out of my Evo on it's maiden voyage (test drive with 2.3 miles on the clock)... had it up to 150mph and launched it four times. The only issue I've had with the car in 42,000 miles is that I smoked my stock clutch at 8,000 miles due to a bad launch.

Don't be scared to run it like you plan to during the so-called break-in period. Just be mindful of your clutch.

When my Z reaches 1200 miles, what is the best oil i can replace it with?

Thanks guys,

Grant

Since this debate always rages endlessly, I'm not going to debate short vs. long. However, no matter when you decide to let loose, there's one rule that remains true:

Make sure the car is warmed up before you redline it.

The above is generally a good idea, but if you're doing early break-in, this holds doubly true - you want the parts to be at proper operating temperature before putting stress on the rings. Don't whale on your car when it's cold, and it should love you long time.

Words of wisdom.:iagree:

Absolutely true.

You just opened another sacred can of worms! ;)

I've been thinking about using Amsoil 100% Synthetic, but I think I'm going to use Castrol Syntec Blend (part dino, part synthetic) 5W30 at 1000 miles, then switch to Amsoil 100% Synthetic at 3000 miles. And I'll go with either a Purolator or Amsoil filter.

If anyone could track down this article I would love to read it!

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

this method would definitely be considered aggressive. please note that it does not involve redlining the car or being harsh. just accelerate aggressively and engine brake.

to me, what is mandatory is 1: varying speed/revs during break in, 2: not putting in synthetic too early in the car's life, 3: warming up the car before driving hard.

after that, who knows what makes a difference?

Hopes it will be fine.!
 

Just hit 5000 rpm,for 5 secs during overtaking,hopes won't hurt my 500 miles engine.....

It's fine! I wouldn't worry about it. I remember flooring it around 600 miles when this guy behind me was "literally" riding my bumper! :mad: