Originally Posted by WShade As a prior Mitsubishi owner, they leak as a brand due to improper engineering Yeah not quite. I have not one leak and I beat the
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05-16-2009, 12:47 AM | #31 (permalink) | |
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On topic, your engine is broken in the first time it warms up. The only reason you should be easy on the car when it's brand new is because the clutch needs to be broken in. I beat the piss out of my Evo on it's maiden voyage (test drive with 2.3 miles on the clock)... had it up to 150mph and launched it four times. The only issue I've had with the car in 42,000 miles is that I smoked my stock clutch at 8,000 miles due to a bad launch. Don't be scared to run it like you plan to during the so-called break-in period. Just be mindful of your clutch.
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Evo IX GSR - FPBlack, 30psi... 10's on pump? Let's find out...
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05-22-2009, 09:26 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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Since this debate always rages endlessly, I'm not going to debate short vs. long. However, no matter when you decide to let loose, there's one rule that remains true:
Make sure the car is warmed up before you redline it. The above is generally a good idea, but if you're doing early break-in, this holds doubly true - you want the parts to be at proper operating temperature before putting stress on the rings. Don't whale on your car when it's cold, and it should love you long time. |
05-24-2009, 09:59 PM | #35 (permalink) | |
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Evo IX GSR - FPBlack, 30psi... 10's on pump? Let's find out...
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05-26-2009, 09:07 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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I've been thinking about using Amsoil 100% Synthetic, but I think I'm going to use Castrol Syntec Blend (part dino, part synthetic) 5W30 at 1000 miles, then switch to Amsoil 100% Synthetic at 3000 miles. And I'll go with either a Purolator or Amsoil filter. |
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05-27-2009, 01:37 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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05-27-2009, 02:31 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
this method would definitely be considered aggressive. please note that it does not involve redlining the car or being harsh. just accelerate aggressively and engine brake. to me, what is mandatory is 1: varying speed/revs during break in, 2: not putting in synthetic too early in the car's life, 3: warming up the car before driving hard. after that, who knows what makes a difference? |
06-14-2009, 04:56 AM | #40 (permalink) | |
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It's fine! I wouldn't worry about it. I remember flooring it around 600 miles when this guy behind me was "literally" riding my bumper!
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06-14-2009, 10:14 AM | #42 (permalink) |
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My thought on it is simple:
If it's going to break, it's going to break. I'd rather it break NOW than later on...perhaps after the warranty expires. With warranty denial claims - they have to PROVE it was your fault, and not bad worksmanship... My car, which just hit around 425 on the odo...has seen the revlimiter a few times while I forgot that I was in auto-stick mode, and took off (oops!) - I'm not too concerned about it. The more I drive it, the more power it seems to have. I chirped the tires in 3rd gear the other day. That little warning light came on (regarding loss of traction) I can't beleive I debated between this car and a Mustang GT...ther's no contest IMHO now! |
06-27-2009, 02:41 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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If your car had 10-15 miles on it when you got it, it has already seen the redline at full throttle from someone joyriding it on a test drive before you bought it. I know I did it a couple of times to know how much power it made and if it was enough performance.
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