How many of you have the original csc?

SouthArk370Z

CSC = Clutch Slave Cylinder (actuates clutch)
CMC = Clutch Master Cylinder (connected to clutch pedal)
CSM = ???

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B&W_Evader

75k still running on original OEM. If/when it goes out there will be upgrades.

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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.|

Elmo370z

49k, about to swap in a cmak and twin disk clutch

KngScottieV

27k on my '13. 20+ autocross events and like 10+ roadrace's. I'm just waiting for it to hit the floor one day.

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2013 Nissan 370z Magma Red Base w/Sport package 6speed. AAM intakes (S-line for now, still needs tuned), Berk HFC's, ARK DT-S cat-back, CJM baffled oil pan, and FI 34 row oil cooler.

MacCool

My 2014 has about 22,000 miles...clutch working fine.

I note that for the 2018 model-year "every Z® with manual-transmission enjoys a new EXEDY® high-performance clutch, for reduced pedal effort and enhanced precision and control." I'll bet the current CSC is EOL.

https://www.nissanusa.com/sportscars...port-tech.html

Tusharp83

My 2009 has 54K miles on it. No problem.

B&W_Evader

Make sure you take some picks and post a review. Especially about any change in cabin noise. Figure I'll be going to a similar setup once my CSC goes out. Just don't want all the noise I added to my truck when I put a stage 2 Competition brand clutch in it.

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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.|

Fountainhead

My 2009 has 60K on it with original everything, I figure I'll change everything but the Flywheel (unless it's too worn) at 100K.
My car never sees anything above 4-5K and I've never launched it or even done a burn out.
I know, why get a car like the Z unless you tear it up. That's just me.

Rusty

Nothing wrong with that thinking.

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socce

Even though nothing has failed and I have under 8k miles, I recently picked up a z1 lightwheel flywheel & clutch combo / z1 csc elimination kit from a member on here for a good price. Went ahead and bought a RJM CMC as well to finish the kit.

Experienced boiling clutch fluid a few times this summer. I could have just changed fluid and insulated lines, but with this package coming in at a deal I figured I would need at some point. Fine with me, as I plan to keep the car a long time.

The thing about the kit I picked up is, is that it has a 6 puck clutch, and I am not boosted, So Spencer at z1 said I could probably swap the 6 puck for a standard full face disk or the unsprung full face disk, but may not see the full life out of the disk. He also says I would probably be fine with the 6 puck. I am leaning towards the unsprung disk.

I haven't been able to hear many examples of the chatter I can expect from the light weight fly wheel. I've heard from a member so far It is noisy near idle. I'm hoping it isn't too much! What should I expect from the unsprung disk over the standard ?

Lastly, I am debating whether to go ahead and put all this in fairly soon with the rest of my parts before I tune ( z1 lightweight rotors, g3, synolimits kit, oil cooler ) , OR wait and put some more miles on OEM ? I am thinking with such low miles, if the clutch and other parts are in good shape, I could put them on sale. I would like to get more life out of my oem parts but kinda want to see how the lightweight flywheel and clutch system goes with the rest of the upgrades. Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.

B&W_Evader

I've been upgrading as I go. Owned the car for 6 years now and a new mod every now and then makes the car feel new all over again. I basically just fix whatever currently pisses me off the most about the car. Guess I'm recommending putting more miles on OEM.

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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.|