Originally Posted by beemerkid Update- im at 10K miles now and Ive noticed ive been losing fluid in mine slowly. over 5k miles of mostly highway driving (ie not a
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01-07-2016, 04:02 PM | #61 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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01-08-2016, 01:42 AM | #62 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Location: SoCal
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Drives: WELL ZED PW 6MT
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I have my original still. It's in my garage closet.
Failed twice at 6K and 59K so I am on my 3rd. Master cylinder --- I'm on my 2nd. Now I have the Tilton racing slave. So far so good. Feels slightly firmer than stock. Engagement is just right - not on the top or high.
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>MyZ's Album< NISMO Convert/ECUTEK/Takeda CAI/F.I. HFC NR CB Carbon/F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler/4.08 Final Drive /Powertrix+Swifts/Hotchkis/SPL/Whiteline/TWM/Zoom Engineering/EVO-R/AeroJacket Vented CF Fenders + CF Spoiler/Avant Garde-WORK/NST/Morimoto Halo/STi Clear Lenses/Carbon Signal Automotive/RJM Performance/ZSpeed Clutch Flywheel CSC delete
Last edited by axmea?; 01-08-2016 at 01:53 AM. |
01-08-2016, 08:13 AM | #63 (permalink) |
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Location: Lee's Summit Missouri
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Axmea?
If that is your white car, I'm jealous. People at work thought I was nuts to buy a second Z after the trouble I had with my 09 and the csc going out 3 times and the dealer not fixing it. I tell them the CSC is but one part, not the whole car and I can't get this driving experience and package in any other car at near the price. Several posters have recommended changing the master cylinder with the CSC. I plan to buy the after market CSC and replace the factory one at 36K when the warranty expires. I was thinking of replacing everything at the same time. Not sure if I should go with a different clutch either as some have recommended. Mine is street driven, not raced. I would climb over Porsche 911s just to get a good look at your car...
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01-08-2016, 08:46 AM | #64 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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01-08-2016, 11:38 AM | #65 (permalink) |
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Jarblue
Thanks for the reply. Whew, that is a big relief to read. So far so good with the white beauty I have. I was out of a Z for 11 months and man its good to be back. Really good news here.
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01-08-2016, 12:25 PM | #66 (permalink) | |
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My 2011 got to almost 40k (car totaled) and it was going strong.
My 2013 is at 24k and I'll be changing it out next week with a new clutch and flywheel, but the stocker is fine at the moment.
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01-08-2016, 02:31 PM | #67 (permalink) |
Track Member
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Location: chicago
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Drives: '12 G37 6MT
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Changing fluid often is probably the best way to avoid damaging the CSC seals. At least every 2-3 years. In fact, same time brake fluid is flushed is probably the best.
21K and no issues so far (g37).
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01-08-2016, 03:19 PM | #68 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Same with brake fluid. I can gravity bleed the clutch without a helper, and I have a power bleeder for my brakes. Super easy and <$50 in fluid for both each change. No reason not to do it.
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2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | |
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09-28-2016, 04:00 PM | #71 (permalink) |
Base Member
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Location: Virginia
Posts: 17
Drives: 2014 370Z PW
Rep Power: 10 |
2014 with 20k miles so far on the OEM CSC. Running an RJM pedal set up to minimize over travel. Oil cooler and fully insulated clutch hydro lines help keep clutch fluid cooler. Original fluid is still pristine.
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09-28-2016, 06:38 PM | #72 (permalink) |
Premium Member
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changed the the GTR brake fluid @ 28k mi. and haven't had a problem since...a little over 41K now
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09-28-2016, 08:28 PM | #73 (permalink) |
Track Member
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2014 with 28.5k miles. I'll probably do the csc delete in the nearish future. I plan to flush all of my fluids except the coolant at 30k.
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09-02-2017, 11:16 AM | #75 (permalink) | |
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