Cutting gas tank, doing side exhaust, adding rear diffuser.

2011 Nismo#91 · 10-28-2015, 09:31 AM

As a licensed PE Electrical Engineer crimp/compression connectors are the weakest type of connection and should be avoided when used in conditions where vibrations are present.

BUT a good crimp, which the installer should be able to do, in a tank with little to no air is pretty safe and no cause for concern.

synolimit · 10-28-2015, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingbaby

Nice thread info in and out

I'm contemplating following suit !

Have you installed it yet ?

Yes i have. Haven't started it up yet though

synolimit · 11-04-2015, 06:52 AM

Be careful filling! Haha. With the decreased size even with the little 1/8th vent tube still on there, if you fill with a can and not a normal fuel pump, the vent cant breath and it'll overflow! You have to have something get down far enough inside there. Everything else went smooth! No leaks seen! And with only 4.8 gallons in the tank my gauge reads 8 dots or half full!

Boss_302 · 11-04-2015, 03:28 PM

Quote:

As a licensed PE Electrical Engineer crimp/compression connectors are the weakest type of connection and should be avoided when used in conditions where vibrations are present.

Solder connection are the preferred way to go, No moister or vibration issues. Never had an issue with vibration on the track or on the water. What weakens the wire is when you strip away the insulation, No support. Shrink wrap will take care of that issue.

synolimit · 11-17-2015, 08:21 PM

Car got dropped off at Moore Speed Performance who did my gas tank. Side exit exhaust to come!!

Masterbeatty · 11-17-2015, 10:46 PM

Did you ever finish the rear brake ducts and air jacks?

synolimit · 11-17-2015, 11:12 PM

Rear brake ducts are now mounted to the rear diff cooler. Everyone agreed cooling that was more important, even Doran. Im also thinking of doing two front 2" cooling ducts to keep them colder.

As for the air jacks ill be finishing soon. First the new exhaust. Once thats done we can do a flat bottem and rear diffusor. Once thats done i can mark and drill holes in the flat bottom where the legs will come through for the air jacks.

synolimit · 11-23-2015, 05:51 PM

Coming along. Still need to box the frame in and finish.

Rusty · 11-24-2015, 11:00 PM

Put a thin piece of polished stainless steel sheet metal over the area with the the exhaust sticking out about 1/8". Measuring from the exhaust pipe. 2" above, 2" in front, 2" below, and all the way to the edge of the fender. Think that would look good, plus it will keep the exhaust heat off of the paint, and be easier to clean.

synolimit · 11-25-2015, 07:43 PM

Ok all done!

So what we did was cut a 4" hole through the frame rail. As this will weaken the frame what Jon did was take a thick thick thick piece of SS sheet steel and roll it into a perfect tube and weld the seam. Then he remeved the wide body and side skirt and welded the 4" tube to both sides of the frame rail all around. On the inside he then used some plate steel to solidly strengthen that even more.

Next he built the CBE. First i used the Motordyne XYZ pipe that ends in 3". We used his V band clamp and welded that to the XYZ pipe and to a 18" long inline res. then it has 90ish degree bend to another inline res but this one instead of a bottle type is Vibrants ultra quiet straight through res. its really just a bigger oval res vs a smaller perfect circle res. then he used another flex coupler. Now i know the xyz pipe has 2 flex already but the reason he used a 3" flex right before it goes through the frame is because that section is solidly bolted to the frame rail. Reason he did that is we didnt want a 3" pipe banging inside a 4" pipe. The last bit of 3" pipe going through the frame through the 4" pipe has a 600 degree silicone coupler around it and DEI titanium wrap around it filling the 1/2" gap solidly. The exhaust tip if you will is solid and going no where!! Now to remove he used a band strap on the ultra quiet res to the flex coulper and of course remove the v band up front.

Thoughts?? Its amazing!! The craftsmanship is A+!! The sound is 100% different than what i had but its good! Loud loud loud on start up but quiet during idle. Highway sounded good with little to zero drone and rasp is zero! Its very very deep and throaty! On start up it reminded me of a exhaust cutout but not while driving.

Cant wait to be tuned!! Car had a lot deleted and all new cai, new injectors, fuel etc so no WOT yet! Tune to come!!

phunk · 11-25-2015, 08:24 PM

Looks seriously business from the outside, I like it. Hard to tell exactly what's going on underneath.. Could use some shots from further away. But I get the idea. Very cool. What fender flares are those?

synolimit · 11-25-2015, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Looks seriously business from the outside, I like it. Hard to tell exactly what's going on underneath.. Could use some shots from further away. But I get the idea. Very cool. What fender flares are those?

I can jack it up and take some later. Its a moonbeam i bought used here.

Rusty · 11-25-2015, 11:30 PM

That's what I was talking about with the polish sheet metal. Looks good.

wheysted32 · 11-26-2015, 12:23 PM

A video would be nice. Need to hear that bad boy

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Masterbeatty · 11-26-2015, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheysted32

A video would be nice. Need to hear that bad boy

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

10-28-2015, 09:31 AM	#61 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,401 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40569	As a licensed PE Electrical Engineer crimp/compression connectors are the weakest type of connection and should be avoided when used in conditions where vibrations are present. BUT a good crimp, which the installer should be able to do, in a tank with little to no air is pretty safe and no cause for concern. Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 10-28-2015 at 09:44 AM.

11-04-2015, 06:52 AM	#63 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Be careful filling! Haha. With the decreased size even with the little 1/8th vent tube still on there, if you fill with a can and not a normal fuel pump, the vent cant breath and it'll overflow! You have to have something get down far enough inside there. Everything else went smooth! No leaks seen! And with only 4.8 gallons in the tank my gauge reads 8 dots or half full! phunk likes this. __________________ 13 370z-

11-17-2015, 08:21 PM	#65 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Car got dropped off at Moore Speed Performance who did my gas tank. Side exit exhaust to come!! ENT-Z likes this. __________________ 13 370z-

11-17-2015, 10:46 PM	#66 (permalink)
Masterbeatty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Whales Vagina Posts: 4,586 Drives: the speed limit... Rep Power: 122867	Did you ever finish the rear brake ducts and air jacks? __________________ 2011 MB 6MT Masterbeatty journal

11-17-2015, 11:12 PM	#67 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Rear brake ducts are now mounted to the rear diff cooler. Everyone agreed cooling that was more important, even Doran. Im also thinking of doing two front 2" cooling ducts to keep them colder. As for the air jacks ill be finishing soon. First the new exhaust. Once thats done we can do a flat bottem and rear diffusor. Once thats done i can mark and drill holes in the flat bottom where the legs will come through for the air jacks. Masterbeatty, Bill and Venom13132 like this. __________________ 13 370z-

11-23-2015, 05:51 PM	#68 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Coming along. Still need to box the frame in and finish. 9000rpm's and Masterbeatty like this. __________________ 13 370z-

11-24-2015, 11:00 PM	#69 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,190 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	Put a thin piece of polished stainless steel sheet metal over the area with the the exhaust sticking out about 1/8". Measuring from the exhaust pipe. 2" above, 2" in front, 2" below, and all the way to the edge of the fender. Think that would look good, plus it will keep the exhaust heat off of the paint, and be easier to clean. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-25-2015, 07:43 PM	#70 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Ok all done! So what we did was cut a 4" hole through the frame rail. As this will weaken the frame what Jon did was take a thick thick thick piece of SS sheet steel and roll it into a perfect tube and weld the seam. Then he remeved the wide body and side skirt and welded the 4" tube to both sides of the frame rail all around. On the inside he then used some plate steel to solidly strengthen that even more. Next he built the CBE. First i used the Motordyne XYZ pipe that ends in 3". We used his V band clamp and welded that to the XYZ pipe and to a 18" long inline res. then it has 90ish degree bend to another inline res but this one instead of a bottle type is Vibrants ultra quiet straight through res. its really just a bigger oval res vs a smaller perfect circle res. then he used another flex coupler. Now i know the xyz pipe has 2 flex already but the reason he used a 3" flex right before it goes through the frame is because that section is solidly bolted to the frame rail. Reason he did that is we didnt want a 3" pipe banging inside a 4" pipe. The last bit of 3" pipe going through the frame through the 4" pipe has a 600 degree silicone coupler around it and DEI titanium wrap around it filling the 1/2" gap solidly. The exhaust tip if you will is solid and going no where!! Now to remove he used a band strap on the ultra quiet res to the flex coulper and of course remove the v band up front. Thoughts?? Its amazing!! The craftsmanship is A+!! The sound is 100% different than what i had but its good! Loud loud loud on start up but quiet during idle. Highway sounded good with little to zero drone and rasp is zero! Its very very deep and throaty! On start up it reminded me of a exhaust cutout but not while driving. Cant wait to be tuned!! Car had a lot deleted and all new cai, new injectors, fuel etc so no WOT yet! Tune to come!! ENT-Z, phunk, BGTV8 and 5 others like this. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 11-25-2015 at 07:47 PM.

11-25-2015, 08:24 PM	#71 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	Looks seriously business from the outside, I like it. Hard to tell exactly what's going on underneath.. Could use some shots from further away. But I get the idea. Very cool. What fender flares are those? synolimit likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

11-25-2015, 11:30 PM	#73 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,190 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	That's what I was talking about with the polish sheet metal. Looks good. YzGyz likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-26-2015, 12:23 PM	#74 (permalink)
wheysted32 Base Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Columbus Posts: 109 Drives: 2010 370z Touring Rep Power: 10	A video would be nice. Need to hear that bad boy Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk Masterbeatty likes this.

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