Giken Triple Disk Clutch Install

pokeyl · 10-04-2015, 06:20 PM

I will be starting my install this Friday, Anyone DIY on this item? Hints/Tips. I have installed many clutch packs in my driveway over the years. Still any input is welcome. Thanks.

I have to add this to start using the NOS and launch control!!!

1slow370 · 10-05-2015, 01:48 AM

Follow the directions, clean the oil off the plates, use an alignment tool, make sure you put the right friction plate in in the right direction. Use new crank bolts as well for safety also bending the middle heat sheald down so you can slide the driveshaft to the side and out saves hella time vs the factory method of dropping the rear diff. Oh and get some pb blaster or aerokroil on the cat bolts you're gonna have to pull the whole exhast behind the headers. And dropping the back of the crossmember a little to let you pull the trans wire connectors helps too. You can torque the flywheel by yourself with the car on stands just put a socket and breaker bar hanging down from the crank bolt and hold with your knees while torquing the bolts(this part sucks the most). It takes a couple days on your back if you are meticulous. Dl the fsm if you dont have it already the os instructions refer you to it a lot. When tightening the pressure plate jump around the outside with the bolts like its a wheel and do two steps to make sure it is evenly torqued AND MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ALIGNMENT TOOL OR YOUR GONNA HATE STABBING THE TRANS. Lightly grease the trans splines(like super thin coating of red bearing grease) and remember the top trans bolts are easier to tighten up top behind the motor. Also have plenty of beer on standby you will get frustrated at some point. Also dont forget the throwout bearing adapter before you put it back together and if you have a hd slave cylinder you will have to source a different one from them because the saab throwut bearing is larger and doesnt fit with the adapter.

PEPI · 10-05-2015, 07:02 AM

Doing up the bolts and torqueing them in a star pattern important too -

pokeyl · 10-05-2015, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

Follow the directions, clean the oil off the plates, use an alignment tool, make sure you put the right friction plate in in the right direction. Use new crank bolts as well for safety also bending the middle heat sheald down so you can slide the driveshaft to the side and out saves hella time vs the factory method of dropping the rear diff. Oh and get some pb blaster or aerokroil on the cat bolts you're gonna have to pull the whole exhast behind the headers. And dropping the back of the crossmember a little to let you pull the trans wire connectors helps too. You can torque the flywheel by yourself with the car on stands just put a socket and breaker bar hanging down from the crank bolt and hold with your knees while torquing the bolts(this part sucks the most). It takes a couple days on your back if you are meticulous. Dl the fsm if you dont have it already the os instructions refer you to it a lot. When tightening the pressure plate jump around the outside with the bolts like its a wheel and do two steps to make sure it is evenly torqued AND MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ALIGNMENT TOOL OR YOUR GONNA HATE STABBING THE TRANS. Lightly grease the trans splines(like super thin coating of red bearing grease) and remember the top trans bolts are easier to tighten up top behind the motor. Also have plenty of beer on standby you will get frustrated at some point. Also dont forget the throwout bearing adapter before you put it back together and if you have a hd slave cylinder you will have to source a different one from them because the saab throwut bearing is larger and doesnt fit with the adapter.

I bought this used with less than 1K miles on it, I have no instructions. Could you send a copy to me, or tell me the download site? I have 2 bearing adapters with this kit, I am sure the long on is for the stock bearing. Do you have a P/N for the SAAB HD bearing, I'll pick on up. Thnaks

zguynate · 10-05-2015, 10:58 AM

If you have 2 adapters then I'm willing to bet you already have the Zspeed one. Just use the one that fits on the Zspeed (Saab) slave cylinder. The other will be the adaptor that came with the clutch which doesn't fit on the Zspeed slave. MAKE SURE to not forget the adaptor. It will blow the seals on your slave cylinder before you ever drive it, making you have to do all of this over again and costing you $100.

1slow370 · 10-05-2015, 08:04 PM

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...rRNk545fY0C_qQ

1slow370 · 10-05-2015, 08:05 PM

Tech Center

pokeyl · 06-23-2016, 07:50 PM

Started this, on jack stands, No problems yet. The CSC line is very long, can someone tell me if I should take the hard line and heat shield soft lines out.

Also the CF drive shaft has flat spots in the u joints. The shaft is non serviceable you have to buy a new one. Thanks NISSAN!

pokeyl · 06-25-2016, 07:35 PM

Finished, peddle effor is highter. Window is narrow. Will adjust window with peddle.

pokeyl · 06-26-2016, 10:27 AM

First drive very touchy, in just the 28 mile drive to work it feels better. After the install I had no rattle at a stop with the clutch depressed as the plates did not float correctly. The parts are manufactured so close tolerance that it will take some time break in. I now have some rattle and shifting is better. The manual shows a 500 mile break in. We will see. As of now other member in the family could not drive it.

pokeyl · 07-03-2016, 08:20 AM

300 miles and still chatters, seems to work best when cold. As I get more heat in the clutch it gets touchy. Chatter is random and can happen any time

Ckutch is set at max window min effort.

ban25 · 07-03-2016, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokeyl

300 miles and still chatters, seems to work best when cold. As I get more heat in the clutch it gets touchy. Chatter is random and can happen any time

Ckutch is set at max window min effort.

Did you replace the flywheel at the same time?

pokeyl · 07-03-2016, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ban25

Did you replace the flywheel at the same time?

Yes

ban25 · 07-03-2016, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokeyl

Yes

Single-mass, lightweight one? That's probably the source of the chatter. I have a 19lbs flywheel with no audible chatter -- wish I had gone lighter!

pokeyl · 07-03-2016, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ban25

Single-mass, lightweight one? That's probably the source of the chatter. I have a 19lbs flywheel with no audible chatter -- wish I had gone lighter!

Super-lite, it is not noise it jerks, sometimes not all the time, seems smoother when cold, also get better with more use. There is a 500 mile brake in, but the manufacture said to take it to the strip and that would cover the brake in. Dont have a strip!

10-04-2015, 06:20 PM	#1 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 900 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 55	Giken Triple Disk Clutch Install I will be starting my install this Friday, Anyone DIY on this item? Hints/Tips. I have installed many clutch packs in my driveway over the years. Still any input is welcome. Thanks. I have to add this to start using the NOS and launch control!!! __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!

10-05-2015, 01:48 AM	#2 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	Follow the directions, clean the oil off the plates, use an alignment tool, make sure you put the right friction plate in in the right direction. Use new crank bolts as well for safety also bending the middle heat sheald down so you can slide the driveshaft to the side and out saves hella time vs the factory method of dropping the rear diff. Oh and get some pb blaster or aerokroil on the cat bolts you're gonna have to pull the whole exhast behind the headers. And dropping the back of the crossmember a little to let you pull the trans wire connectors helps too. You can torque the flywheel by yourself with the car on stands just put a socket and breaker bar hanging down from the crank bolt and hold with your knees while torquing the bolts(this part sucks the most). It takes a couple days on your back if you are meticulous. Dl the fsm if you dont have it already the os instructions refer you to it a lot. When tightening the pressure plate jump around the outside with the bolts like its a wheel and do two steps to make sure it is evenly torqued AND MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ALIGNMENT TOOL OR YOUR GONNA HATE STABBING THE TRANS. Lightly grease the trans splines(like super thin coating of red bearing grease) and remember the top trans bolts are easier to tighten up top behind the motor. Also have plenty of beer on standby you will get frustrated at some point. Also dont forget the throwout bearing adapter before you put it back together and if you have a hd slave cylinder you will have to source a different one from them because the saab throwut bearing is larger and doesnt fit with the adapter. bullitt5897 and zguynate like this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 10-05-2015 at 01:52 AM.

10-05-2015, 07:02 AM	#3 (permalink)
PEPI Base Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Darwin NT Australia Posts: 152 Drives: 2009 370z Sports 6MT Rep Power: 14	Doing up the bolts and torqueing them in a star pattern important too - __________________ Chicane Yellow 370z 6MT Touring + Yellow THE ZED .... functional motoring with attitude.

10-05-2015, 10:58 AM	#5 (permalink)
zguynate A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Strangeland Posts: 1,054 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 73	If you have 2 adapters then I'm willing to bet you already have the Zspeed one. Just use the one that fits on the Zspeed (Saab) slave cylinder. The other will be the adaptor that came with the clutch which doesn't fit on the Zspeed slave. MAKE SURE to not forget the adaptor. It will blow the seals on your slave cylinder before you ever drive it, making you have to do all of this over again and costing you $100. __________________ 2009 370z touring w/sports package Last edited by zguynate; 10-05-2015 at 11:00 AM.

10-05-2015, 08:04 PM	#6 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...rRNk545fY0C_qQ __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

10-05-2015, 08:05 PM	#7 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	Tech Center __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

06-23-2016, 07:50 PM	#8 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 900 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 55	Started this, on jack stands, No problems yet. The CSC line is very long, can someone tell me if I should take the hard line and heat shield soft lines out. Also the CF drive shaft has flat spots in the u joints. The shaft is non serviceable you have to buy a new one. Thanks NISSAN! __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!

06-25-2016, 07:35 PM	#9 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 900 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 55	Finished, peddle effor is highter. Window is narrow. Will adjust window with peddle. YzGyz likes this. __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago! Last edited by pokeyl; 06-26-2016 at 10:19 AM.

06-26-2016, 10:27 AM	#10 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 900 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 55	First drive very touchy, in just the 28 mile drive to work it feels better. After the install I had no rattle at a stop with the clutch depressed as the plates did not float correctly. The parts are manufactured so close tolerance that it will take some time break in. I now have some rattle and shifting is better. The manual shows a 500 mile break in. We will see. As of now other member in the family could not drive it. __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!

07-03-2016, 08:20 AM	#11 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 900 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 55	300 miles and still chatters, seems to work best when cold. As I get more heat in the clutch it gets touchy. Chatter is random and can happen any time Ckutch is set at max window min effort. __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!

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